Rear Engine Cover Alingment
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From: San Marcos, TX
Rear Engine Cover Alingment How can this be done? I have read about the J 41476 and J 41480 specialty tools, but they seem to go for A LOT of money. How can it be done without them? I am talking about the rear engine cover. We have used a feeler gauge on the rear seal to get equal distance between the two tabs on protruding toward the crank, but it looks like there is too much space on the bottom part, matting to the oil pan. Any input is appreciated. Thanks.
I've always just bolted the bitch up, never had any leaks. Use some RTV in the corners where the block meets the oil pan. Then thread in the two bottom M8 bolts in the bottom on the cover, then the two skinny long ones that go through the oil pan. Tighten down all four in small increments so the cover nests well in the corner where the RTV is, then torque all of the bolts.
It's been gone through before, but I'll go through it again. Since you have a M6, bolt your bell housing to the block. Place RTV on the 4 corners of the oil pan/gasket and set it in place. The remaining 2 bell housing bolts go through the housing and into the oil pan. Now that the pan is secured to the bell housing, it should be lined up. Place your oil pan bolts in along the sides and TQ to spec. Now you can remove all the bell housing bolts and the housing itself. Place the front and rear covers on and loosly insert all the bolts. Once in place, tighten the bolts that go through the pan into the bottom of the cover to spec. Your covers should now be alighned. Then tighten the perimeter bolts to spec. That should be about it.
