coreyp1970

I've listened around a bit and asked a few questions. How does this sound?

Current mods in sig plus:
LS1 Edit ($550) Already have monitoring program.
Increase limiter to 6700 rpm
MTI T1 .558-221I/.558-221E 112deg ($449)
Valvetrain upgrade ($399)
Pocket porting to free up flow around valve seats
Multi-angle valve grind
Raise compression to around 10.5:1
160-170 degree thermostat ($50)
ASP crank & alternator pulley set ($270)
3.73 gears ($250)
LS6 intake ($500)
'01 exhaust manifolds (headers later)

Any objections?
Any suggestions?
Prices right?
Any smog objections? I've heard it's possible with this cam.


CoreyP
White '99 Trans Am WS-6
(M6, K&N Filter, Direct Flow Lid, Granatelli MAF, Eibach Springs)
Best 1/4: 13.247@106.8mph
Best 60': 2.109sec
(California Dragway)
Black '99 Grand Prix GT
(No Mods)

[ February 22, 2002: Message edited by: coreyp1970 ]</p>

WeatherGuy

Welcome to the board!

Few comments:

1) In California, I would be more inclined to go with a 114 LSA (B1 instead of T1) on the cam to satisfy the smog-*****. 112 LSA will push it, though many have passed with it. You will not have too much difference between a 112 or 114, especially if you wind it up.

2) Thermostat may not do too much for you - LS1s are a different animal from other cars.

3) Pulley is a good idea.

4) LS6 intake should help, but may depend upon how good the porting job is to see what kind of airflow you are going to need.. But I would definitely take it over not.

5) Though it costs money, heads and cams without headers is going to rob you of serious power. I would find a way to get headers if at all possible - the Hookers are relatively cheap as this goes.

6) If you do make good power, 3.73s with an M6 in a stock 10-bolt will eventually gernade the rear-end. This will be especially true if you hook well. Save up for a good rearend down the road. (Notice how I am asking you to fork over money for a good rearend and a set of Hookers?? <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0"> )

7) Who is doing your headwork. I would not just let anyone do it, as good headwork is the key to making serious HP. I would go with one of the established shops for LS1 headwork (MTI, Cartek, MMS, etc.).

Just my $0.02.

coreyp1970

[quote]Originally posted by WeatherGuy:
<strong>Welcome to the board!</strong><hr></blockquote>

Thanks! You've helped me before on another board.

[quote] <strong>2) Thermostat may not do too much for you - LS1s are a different animal from other cars.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Just trying to keep from pinging.

[quote]<strong>5) Though it costs money, heads and cams without headers is going to rob you of serious power. I would find a way to get headers if at all possible - the Hookers are relatively cheap as this goes.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Trying to keep costs within the limit of my next bonus check. They'll have to wait.

[quote]<strong>6) If you do make good power, 3.73s with an M6 in a stock 10-bolt will eventually gernade the rear-end. This will be especially true if you hook well.</strong><hr></blockquote>

I don't plan on EVER putting drag radials on the car and will only visit the track a couple times once I'm finished. I mainly want a nice combination to work on the street.

[quote]<strong>7) Who is doing your headwork. I would not just let anyone do it, as good headwork is the key to making serious HP. I would go with one of the established shops for LS1 headwork (MTI, Cartek, MMS, etc.).</strong><hr></blockquote>

I have a guy I can trust. He used to build my engines for my race cars.

Thanks for the help.

Corey