I ordered the tsp 228r cam and pushrods and 918's springs and the ls6 oil pump from texas speed. i was wondering what else i would need besides a fuel pump?

 

new timing chain set.

 

all the gaskets and a new harmonic balancer bolt.

 

I would go ahead and get the titanium retainers for the valve springs while you are at it.

 

Why do you need a new fuel pump? Also, for some good information on changing out the cam, look at http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23.

Steve

 

i order the basic gm kit that has the gaskets and harmonic balancer bolt included any thing else

 

for the fuel pump which would be better an inline or in tank fuel pump

 

In tank would be your best bet. Racetronix is about the easiest, straight forward install.

 

thanks man. i got one more question,
for a timing chain is it really nessasary to go with a double roller

 

should be a nice setup. My buddy made 411whp and 402wtq w/ that cam and LTs - 99 Z28 M6

 

Things to get...

1) New set of valve stem seals (GM part numbers 12533586 and 12457652 for intake and exhaust respectively... $12.08 and $11.12 respectively from www.gmpartsdirect.com)
2) LS2 timing chain (GM part number 12586482... $27.75 from www.gmpartsdirect.com).
3) Either a new front cover gasket or RTV. I would just use oil resistant RTV, but the gasket is GM part number 12574294 and costs $13.33 from www.gmpartsdirect.com.
4) New crank bolt. The GM bolt is part number 12557840 and is $2.62 at www.gmpartsdirect.com. The ARP bolt is part number 234-2503 and is $27.99 from www.texas-speed.com.
5) Crank pulley puller tool. You can rent one from AutoZone.
6) Crank pulley install tool. This will prevent you from stripping the threads out of the front of the crank. A member here, 618Hawk, made the one I use, and it is absolutely worth the money. Look at this link for details and pics.
7) New cam gear bolts, preferably ARP. Mine backed out on me, so I'll be replacing them every time I have to take them out from this day forward. The ARP part number is 134-1003 and costs $6.29 from www.thunderracing.com. I can't seem to find the GM part number, but they're cheap.
8) A couple dowels of some sort to hold up the lifters. According to my research, you want 5/16", and you should get metal dowel. Wood is probably a bad idea. If you don't want to fool with it, you can get the JRP cam install tool from Thunder Racing, but I'd avoid it personally. It's $84.99 if that's the route you decide to go.
9) Red Loc-Tite.
10) A spring compressor. The one from Crane Cams is absolutely unbeatable, but it's expensive. The part number is 99472-1 and costs $114.99 from www.thunderracing.com.
11) Be sure you have a pen magnet. It will be a real help when you're trying to pull the locks out.
12) Some thick motor oil (I use straight 50 weight) or engine assembly lube for the new cam.


Anyone see anything I missed?

 

I know Gauge suggested a pen magnet for the valve locks, but I thought this was worth mentioning. I've seen others suggest that you order extra valve locks from GM while you are getting all the other bolts and stuff. You may not need them, but they are dirt cheap, and hard to get at 5:00 on a saturday when you can't find the one that fell into the engine bay or bounced under _____ in your garage when it shot out.

Gauge's list is awesome though!

 

Not sure why you think you need a new fuel pump?

 

On a stock pulley i use a propane torch and heat it up...SLides right on to get a good start with the stock bolt in place.

 

Everyone else here has pretty much covered everything but just a comment on how to hold up the lifters from my experience. If you want to spend the money, get the JPR tool. If you want to go the cheaper route(I would), get 5/16" wooden dowels from the arts and crafts section at wal-mart(or a similar store), cost me a little over a buck. At first I bought some 5/16" metal dowels cause I didn't like the idea of wood, but I couldn't get them in, you have to grind down one edge of them and I didn't want to spend the time so I figured i'd give the wood a shot. After looking at the wooden dowels I knew I wasn't gonna have a problem because just the way they are made, they won't splinter and they definately won't break easily. Great thing about the wood is that you can cut them if they are too long while you are still inserting them in, you can also bend them slightly to help angle them in, and it's easier to feel when you hit the back of the block with the wood ones then it would be if you used metal. As long as you lube them up with oil you won't have a problem, hell mine were even re-usable after we pulled them out. I spent like $15 on the metal ones when I could've just got the wood ones in the first place. Just tryin' to help a brother out.

 

one of my buddys told me that i need to get a fuel pump bc the stock one isnt capable of pumping enough fuel fast enough

 

Most people can get away with a cam and no fuel system upgrades without a problem. I'm putting down 400HP on a mustang dyno, and my fuel system doesn't seem to have an issue keeping up. It's certainly not a bad idea, but I don't think it's absolutely necessary.

 

with regard to the cam install, am i right in thinking that when doing a cam swap with the engine out and on a stand as i will be, i can simply spin the entire block upside down before pulling the cam to prevent the lifters dropping back?

 

Sure can

 

thanks