pics of ported oil pump and correct setup on engine
I like to center them, but its not needed. When they go down the assembly line the pump is installed fully assembled.
You sometimes see little marks in the drive mandrel were it rubbed on the main housing, this is why I center it. Probably does not matter much, but I feel better!!
Kurt
You sometimes see little marks in the drive mandrel were it rubbed on the main housing, this is why I center it. Probably does not matter much, but I feel better!!
Kurt
I put feeler gauges in between the main housing and the drive hub with no oil pump gears in place to center the main housing.
The other thing thats important is the chamfer on the outer ring, it must be installed first (towards the rear of the pump). If this is installed wrong the pump will try and lock-up as the gear will be bound on the cover. Most pumps have a "DOT" on the front of the outer ring, but I have noticed some of the new ones do not.
Kurt
The other thing thats important is the chamfer on the outer ring, it must be installed first (towards the rear of the pump). If this is installed wrong the pump will try and lock-up as the gear will be bound on the cover. Most pumps have a "DOT" on the front of the outer ring, but I have noticed some of the new ones do not.
Kurt
Good write-up i'll be buying a used pump and want to rebuild/port it myself. 
Also is it just me or are there 2 pics missing? I see 2 sets of IMG boxes w/ a pic between them....
Also is it just me or are there 2 pics missing? I see 2 sets of IMG boxes w/ a pic between them....
I always do what I can to keep metal out of the engine, but the factory workers do it your way and it works.
Kurt
Kurt
I put feeler gauges in between the main housing and the drive hub with no oil pump gears in place to center the main housing.
The other thing thats important is the chamfer on the outer ring, it must be installed first (towards the rear of the pump). If this is installed wrong the pump will try and lock-up as the gear will be bound on the cover. Most pumps have a "DOT" on the front of the outer ring, but I have noticed some of the new ones do not.
Kurt
The other thing thats important is the chamfer on the outer ring, it must be installed first (towards the rear of the pump). If this is installed wrong the pump will try and lock-up as the gear will be bound on the cover. Most pumps have a "DOT" on the front of the outer ring, but I have noticed some of the new ones do not.
Kurt
what about if i am installing a new SLP pump (it is a high pressure meilling pump) with the SLP logo on it , milled and machined to fit with there double roller timming chain set.
Do i have to do all that allinging like said in this post
Do i have to do all that allinging like said in this post
Thread Starter
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From: waterford MI.
its highly recomended. but doesnt have to be done. sorta like degreeing in a cam. yeah you could just line up the dots and hope its all where its supposed to be. or you could do it the right way and KNOW its right. again, this is kinda splitting hairs. but to me this is just somewhere I dont want to skimp or assume.
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Any chance you could post those pics up again on porting the inlet and outlet of the pump. The first few arent coming up in your first post. If you could that'd be aswesome, im just about to do mine.
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
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From: waterford MI.
yeah I will, but unfortunatly Im at home on vacation this week. and the pc with my pics on it is now at work. sorry but it'll have to wait till next week. and by then I might forget. Im sure you can find some other pics by searching by then though.
