I'm shooting oil out of my dipstick tube all over the hood @ 7000 rpms @ 12psi. I'm looking for a crankcase evacuation system with an electrical pump not belt driven.

Does anybody know how much vacuum would be needed out of a pump to get into a negative pressure in the crankcase?

How much volume would the pump have to be?


Thanks in advance!

 

TTT

 

Once a can get a g'damned valve pcv part for my driver's side then I will the 4-6-8 caddy pump setup that a few LT1 buddies of mine have. It uses like 4 amps/volts hehehe.

 

[quote]Originally posted by Pro Stock John:
<strong>Once a can get a g'damned valve pcv part for my driver's side then I will the 4-6-8 caddy pump setup that a few LT1 buddies of mine have. It uses like 4 amps/volts hehehe.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Huh? <img src="images/icons/confused.gif" border="0">

 

[quote]Originally posted by Pro Stock John:
<strong>Once a can get a g'damned valve pcv part for my driver's side then I will the 4-6-8 caddy pump setup that a few LT1 buddies of mine have. It uses like 4 amps/volts hehehe.</strong><hr></blockquote>

I already tried that setup and it couldnt keep up. It'd build 12" of vacuum at idle, but by redline I'd be up to 1psi of crankcase boost.

Since you have aftermarket rings, maybe it'll be ok on your car.

Also, the vacuum showed no gains on the dyno (i switched back to stock a few times on the dyno to see).

 

[quote]Originally posted by Raughammer:
<strong>

Huh? <img src="images/icons/confused.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>


I second that. Type a little slower.
What year of cadillac pump are you talking about?

 

Fuggers... So I forgot the VERB. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">

The Caddy 4-6-8 pump. I just emailed this thread to a 96 LT1 buddy who is in the midst of fabbing it up for his car.

From what I understand it should be very easy to do.

I would dump into a catch can since I don't like watching blue smoke coming out of a built car.

I'm thinking one could just take the factory pcv system and modify it to work.

The pump is like $120, let's see what ZBass has to add...

 

I had a simliar problem on my GNX. I bought a smog pump for a 91 Caddilac. On the Buick the Mopar breathers with oil seperators worked beautifully. I had braided line and AN fittings since it was a show/go car. Both breather lines went to a "Y" and down to the smog pump. The outlet went to a catch can ordered from Jegs with a drain petcock. It never sucked oil. Obviously you are plumbing the smog pump in reverse to pull air. I had a Hobbs switch to activate it at 5PSI (I would run 25psi boost). Worked like a charm. I tried LT1 pumps and several others that all lasted a very short time. The Caddy pump was on for 2 years and still running.

 

Here are the part #'s for the pump and accessories I am using. They are all GM parts.

#22062562 vac. pump
#25534015 pump bracket
#12085485 elec. connector

List price on the pump was 224.16, but I got it for 125.53 through our club discount.

I'll be installing it this week on my car, but won't be able to give any feedback until the weather gets better and the car comes out. A buddy has been running this pump with great results so I an expecting the same.


Tom
'96 Z28 Vortech Supercharged
'00 Silverado Z71

 

[quote]Originally posted by 30thta436:
<strong>I'm shooting oil out of my dipstick tube all over the hood @ 7000 rpms @ 12psi. </strong><hr></blockquote>

You may want to take the time to make sure you haven't busted a ringland somewhere or have other damage.

It's not normal to be shooting oil out the dipstick tube when under boost like that. That would certainly constitute excessive crankcase pressure, the type seen when some rings are shot.

 

[quote]Originally posted by ZBass28:
<strong>

You may want to take the time to make sure you haven't busted a ringland somewhere or have other damage.

It's not normal to be shooting oil out the dipstick tube when under boost like that. That would certainly constitute excessive crankcase pressure, the type seen when some rings are shot.</strong><hr></blockquote>


I'm sure the rings are not in the best of shape. I'm not overly concerned about it. I have another engine. I'm in the process of building a 422. I just want this one to hold up for about 6 months or so.

The LS1 rings have problems anyways. GM has a bulletin out for them. Over 3000 rpms the rings suck into the piston and allow crankcase pressurizing, burning oil through the pcv system. I'm revving to 7000 rpms. So I'm sure I'm pressurizing the hell out of the crankcase.

I just want to relieve some of the pressure so I'm shooting oil past the dipstick and onto the hood.

 

Like I said, this pump isnt gonna keep up. I used those GM part #'s above about 8 months ago, built the setup, pulled vacuum, even connected a vacuum/boost guage to my crankcase.

This electric pump isnt your answer if you are building enough pressure.

And like said above, if you do decide to use the pump, dump into a catchcan for sure. Even with the baffles in the LS1 valvecovers it will suck oil.

 

Yep, I wouldn't bother with the caddy pump on a LS1 - jMX's results bear that out - it works well on LT1's though. You need a pump that will maintain at least some negative pressure at WOT.

We have a new part we are trying out now - it's a Ford Cobra "R" crankcase evac pump - it is internally regulated at 10", and should flow a higher volume than the caddy pump. We have a few on the way, and should know soon if it can keep up with the LS1.

 

what did you get for results? I am interested in something that will work..thankx

 

Why bother? Block the dip stick tube off.

 

Bring this back from the dead one more time.

Using a belt driven pump, would you want to Y both valve covers into the inlet of the pump or just one side (say the drivers side since it has pcv/metering hole) into the pump and leave the pass side where it is plumbed into the intake/air intake?

That GZ kit just seems to take it off the pass side valve cover via the oil fill cap, and then runs to a vented catch tank. Would it be more beneficial to plumb both in?