HELP!!! Low oil pressure!!!
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 288
Likes: 0
From: California
Originally Posted by LostCauseZ06
are you freaking kidding me??? USE THE SEARCH BUTTON or prepare to get flamed...
FRAM is one of the worst things you can put on your car.... also cause oil pressure problems! USE THE SEARCH BUTTON!
FRAM is one of the worst things you can put on your car.... also cause oil pressure problems! USE THE SEARCH BUTTON!
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 288
Likes: 0
From: California
So anyways, I would try to NOT use synthetic. Everyone knows your not soppose to use that on a new motor... Your not soppose to use it for a long time actually, that stuff is very slick. I think that might be your problem.
You better change it fast too, you dont want to wait and break something
You better change it fast too, you dont want to wait and break something
Originally Posted by CuNfUzEd
Alright man. I dont see where I am being arrogant. I checked the search engine and again did not find anything new. If it was the damn filter it would have pressure issues from the start. But it holds pressure good for 30-45 minutes of run time and falls off. That is not the filter! I will check the damn filter just in case. I also am putting a gauge on it. I realise the dummy stuff. I am asking for people who might of had a simular issue. I have only known one other car to do this and he is pulling his crank to replace bearings. I fricken hope I dont have to do this.
Originally Posted by LostCauseZ06
oh i see... so i guess that means that its not a problem eh?? if your not going to take advice then what the hell are you asking for it for??
Fram oil filters are KNOWN to be HORRIBLE.. cut one open.. they have been proven to contain shavings and sharp metal shards.. also have been known to cause oil pressure problems...
once again dude.. quit acting so arrogant and use the search button. we have ALL been in your shoes and all been newbs.. searching and seeing peoples past problems will save you tons of time and headaches...
Fram oil filters are KNOWN to be HORRIBLE.. cut one open.. they have been proven to contain shavings and sharp metal shards.. also have been known to cause oil pressure problems...
once again dude.. quit acting so arrogant and use the search button. we have ALL been in your shoes and all been newbs.. searching and seeing peoples past problems will save you tons of time and headaches...
You wanna act like a know-it-all little bitch, go get on the local ricer forums. We are all here to HELP other f-body owners, not bust their *****. So if your not helping STFU.
Now to Scott, I would get rid of the Fram & just put on the stock replacement cheapo filter. Too fine of particle filteration can cause the pores in the filter material to clog easily. I would also suggest the gauge be checked & if its a must, pull the pump & check it & the o-ring.
This sucks for ya man, its running strong & you definetly didn't need this happening.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 199
Likes: 0
From: Austin, Texas
Originally Posted by CuNfUzEd
I have an issue with a freshly assymbled engine. I start the car and the oil pressure is fine. I use 10/30 synthetic oil. After driving it awhile, the pressure drops to 20. When it gets good and warm it wont even rise at acceleration. The oil pump is a blue printed pump from TSP. Anyone have any ideas? It makes no strange noises.
A common mistake made when building the LS1 motors is to set the bearing clearances to big.
I've seen it happen with motors built by first time LS1 builders. I haven't had any issues with oil filters causing problems. You should check your filter for bearing material though.
Also what type of timing set are you using? If you went to a double roller you have to be careful about the chain tension, I've seen the chains way to tight which pulls the cam into the cam bearings once the motor expanse as it heats up. If this is happening you'll see bearing material in the filter. This will also slowing plug the oil holes or spin a cam bearing, which will affect pressure.
If you would like to discuss this over the phone give me a call, no charge for advise.
512-257-0222 ask for Harold
Like everyone else said hook up a gauge to her and see what that reads if its low on the external gauge, that rules out the in dash gauge. In my opinion i never trust the in car gauges. As for the full synthetic oil, as long as you had non synthetic in it when you started it up till when you changed the oil after break in it should be fine. There isnt too much to break in on these new engines, other than the bearings and rings. Next i would prolly go after that O-ring very common problem. Other than that use everybodies input here they are al possibilities. Hopefully its somethign small and stupid. As for the A$$holes on here jsut forget them i kwo how it is when your looking through the search and cant find exactly what your looking for. Those guys might as wel be ricers in my book lol. well good luck
Originally Posted by LSWon00
Moe:
Did you have to pull the motor and replace the cam bearing like the book says with the special tools, or did you have someone else do it.
Did you have to pull the motor and replace the cam bearing like the book says with the special tools, or did you have someone else do it.
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I had a 406 chevy drag motor (not ls1) that started having pressure issues right after fresh build with new high volume/ high pressure pump. im talking like 70 psi at idle and 90 when up in the rpms, and from the extreme pressure and my cheap filter I actualy pushed the outside of the filter element through the screen part of the filter causing a severe drop in pressure. i went to napa and bought one of there GOLD filters and I never had the problem again. as far as bearing clearances gm recommends .0015 to .0019 on the mains and .0019 to .0031 on the rods. this is direct from a gm shop tech manual. I would like to know what is recommended for clearances for a sc/turbo buildup however, if anyone knows?
I'd call somebody like HP engineering or Texas speed but for some reason .0022-.0025 is the target range on an aluminum boost or nitrous motor. As for rods I think they shot for .003, but don't quote me on that. Call those guys, they would know for sure. I'm just shooting off of a number that is sticking in my head for whatever reason.
PROBLEM SOLVED (for me):
Changed to new Melling 10295 with blue spring and pick up tube and now oil pressure is 45-50psi idle and 60-70 hi-rpm. No pressure drop and no valve noise.
Changed to new Melling 10295 with blue spring and pick up tube and now oil pressure is 45-50psi idle and 60-70 hi-rpm. No pressure drop and no valve noise.
Originally Posted by 02Reaper
Give the guy a break. For one, do trust the stock guage. In the event that your stock guage is NOT lying and you dont have any oil pressure you dont need to keep cranking the car up, now do you? Two things that I know of that equal low oil pressure other than a bad sending unit, are bearings, and the oil pump (o-ring included). I would start by cutting the oil filter open and checking for pieces of bearings in there (these would be flakes of aluminum most likely). If you dont find any bearing material then go for the oil pump or o-ring.
