Just wanted to say.... Your a Douche Bag. Go pop a viagra and bust one, you really need it.

 

So anyways, I would try to NOT use synthetic. Everyone knows your not soppose to use that on a new motor... Your not soppose to use it for a long time actually, that stuff is very slick. I think that might be your problem.
You better change it fast too, you dont want to wait and break something

 

I had the same symptoms with my car after a cam install. Well I did a lot more than just the cam but it was all on top of the engine. I ended up putting Lucas oil additive and it solved all my problems of the pressure dropping out. The pressure however was still at 20 psi. I just recently ran seafoam through my engine oil and added then went with German Castrol 0w-30 oil and Lucas oil additive. My pressure is now back to 40psi and never goes down even when warmed up. Runs better now than it did stock. Just for a reference I had a fram filter on at first and (the only thing I could get in Europe without waiting) and switched back to a K&N. Who knows it may have been just the filter. Good luck

 

Ok mister 500 posts, get the ****** sand outta your vagina. Scott is no newb. He is just trouble shooting & wanting feedback on his particular problem before tearing into the engine if its not needed.

You wanna act like a know-it-all little bitch, go get on the local ricer forums. We are all here to HELP other f-body owners, not bust their *****. So if your not helping STFU.

Now to Scott, I would get rid of the Fram & just put on the stock replacement cheapo filter. Too fine of particle filteration can cause the pores in the filter material to clog easily. I would also suggest the gauge be checked & if its a must, pull the pump & check it & the o-ring.

This sucks for ya man, its running strong & you definetly didn't need this happening.

 

You can have several things going on, I would check the oil pressure with an external gauge just to rule out whether your factory gauge is working or not.
A common mistake made when building the LS1 motors is to set the bearing clearances to big.
I've seen it happen with motors built by first time LS1 builders. I haven't had any issues with oil filters causing problems. You should check your filter for bearing material though.
Also what type of timing set are you using? If you went to a double roller you have to be careful about the chain tension, I've seen the chains way to tight which pulls the cam into the cam bearings once the motor expanse as it heats up. If this is happening you'll see bearing material in the filter. This will also slowing plug the oil holes or spin a cam bearing, which will affect pressure.
If you would like to discuss this over the phone give me a call, no charge for advise.
512-257-0222 ask for Harold

 

Like everyone else said hook up a gauge to her and see what that reads if its low on the external gauge, that rules out the in dash gauge. In my opinion i never trust the in car gauges. As for the full synthetic oil, as long as you had non synthetic in it when you started it up till when you changed the oil after break in it should be fine. There isnt too much to break in on these new engines, other than the bearings and rings. Next i would prolly go after that O-ring very common problem. Other than that use everybodies input here they are al possibilities. Hopefully its somethign small and stupid. As for the A$$holes on here jsut forget them i kwo how it is when your looking through the search and cant find exactly what your looking for. Those guys might as wel be ricers in my book lol. well good luck

 

I would think it depends on which one, or ones, were spun. You may need to have them all redone, or even have the bore line honed. I got lucky, it seemed that mine was just not installed correctly. Did not hurt my block any, but since it spun then backed out, it got torn to shreds, literally, by one of my lifters, sounded like a bent pushrod. I had bearing material all through my motor and it scarred up some of my rod and main bearings. I tore the motor, which only had 1500 miles on it, completely back apart and took it back to the machine shop that did all my machine work and installed the bearings and they took care of everything. cleaned the block up, had the crank repolished, and had all new cam bearings put in. My cam was fine, and the block didnt need to be line honed. Over 5000 miles now and running really strong.

 

the filter is not going to cause low oil pressure like that...

Have you changed the oil again?

 

I had a 406 chevy drag motor (not ls1) that started having pressure issues right after fresh build with new high volume/ high pressure pump. im talking like 70 psi at idle and 90 when up in the rpms, and from the extreme pressure and my cheap filter I actualy pushed the outside of the filter element through the screen part of the filter causing a severe drop in pressure. i went to napa and bought one of there GOLD filters and I never had the problem again. as far as bearing clearances gm recommends .0015 to .0019 on the mains and .0019 to .0031 on the rods. this is direct from a gm shop tech manual. I would like to know what is recommended for clearances for a sc/turbo buildup however, if anyone knows?

 

I'd call somebody like HP engineering or Texas speed but for some reason .0022-.0025 is the target range on an aluminum boost or nitrous motor. As for rods I think they shot for .003, but don't quote me on that. Call those guys, they would know for sure. I'm just shooting off of a number that is sticking in my head for whatever reason.

 

Change filters and go to a thicker oil like 10W40 se if that helps any.

 

PROBLEM SOLVED (for me):

Changed to new Melling 10295 with blue spring and pick up tube and now oil pressure is 45-50psi idle and 60-70 hi-rpm. No pressure drop and no valve noise.

 

yeah give the guy a break, i dont go to ls1.com bc of all the ill spirited flaming, lets keep this one a little more professional, eh?