Resleeved aluminum block or bored 6.0l block?

I know that the iron is heavier but, I'm concerned about the new sleeves.
Has anyone had any problems with a re-sleeved aluminum block?

The iron block can be bored to 4.1" right?

It would be used with a TR224 114 it's an A4 98. Any HP projections?
The heads should flow close to 300cfm (not sure at what lift)

 

What is the deck height of the iron block?

 

Gee, this board is so helpful.

 

I have a 6.0 LQ4 iron block.

Mine is bored 4.060 by Agostino Racing.

I have heard of one 4.080 bored LQ4 but have never talked to the guy. I have never heard of anyone going 4.100 with an LQ4 block.

I was concerned about the sleeves too, and what the motor would do on nitrous.

Seems like the resleeving is more reliable now... Resleeving a block is not a new thing, it's been done for over 20 years, it's resleeving an aluminum block that is tricky.

John
ARE 422ci IRON

 

the deck height for an iron block is 9.24 like the LS1 to the best of my knowledge. they can only safely be bored to 4.060...but lots of shops will tell you that is only a certain percentage of the LQ9's (casting flaws and whatnot). most i would go is .030 or .040-over. with a 4" crank thats 408cid or 410cid.

that cam will sound STOCK in a 400+ cid motor. good for some...but you can get a way with a much larger stick with those cubes.

yes, people have had issues with sleeved motors. more in the early days than today, but Larry, Jason, and the WeatherGuy have dropped sleeves in recent months (i think). BUT thats why MTI offers a 2yr, 24k-mile warranty on their motors.

did i get all your questions?

 

Shoot guy I would love to help you but I don't want to give out bad information. My car is a Nitrous car but I will share what I have read. I do know that some of the guys that had there LS1's bored out big up to 422's a few have dropped sleeves and have problems with loosing cooling fluid. I know it is a very small amount of motors that have done that but enough that I would not do an all bore that big. This is what helped me to go with a nitrous motor. As for and iron block what I have read is that they are a little safer as far as not having the problems associated with dropped sleeves. But they have a weight issue as it sound although they more than make up for it with the big power they make. I know that this does not help much but maybe the bump up and what I wrote will get someone else on in here to speak with more knowledge.

 

Thanks for the responses. I've been using the search feature religiously but, It couldn't answer my specific questions.

My questions have been answered, so now I think I know what to do.

I would tell the exact combos but, I have Mustang spies stalking me! What's up Kirk?! hahaha

 

Oh wait. One more question. Can LS1 heads be used with the 6.0l shortblock? Will the CR be too high? What about P/V clearance?

 

Yes, the LS1 heads will fit the iron block. Bolts right up!

CR can be varied with different thickness head gaskets. The stock 6.0L setup is 9.0:1 CR I believe, so the smaller chamber of LS1 heads would be a benefit.

Piston/Valve clearance should not be an issue at all. LS1 aluminum shortblocks have flat top pistons and protrude from the deck and still do not hit our valves.

Tony

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Nine Ball:
<strong>Yes, the LS1 heads will fit the iron block. Bolts right up!

CR can be varied with different thickness head gaskets. The stock 6.0L setup is 9.0:1 CR I believe, so the smaller chamber of LS1 heads would be a benefit.

Piston/Valve clearance should not be an issue at all. LS1 aluminum shortblocks have flat top pistons and protrude from the deck and still do not hit our valves.

Tony</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Is the 6.0 short is a negative deck?

 

I have an Iron block sitting at MMS right now, with some forged pistons for a 375ci motor. I'll sell the pistons + rings + block (.060 over) for $1000. I spent $1500. MMS can turn it in to a motor for you if you want, all you need is 6" rods, bearings, a stock crank, and assembly labor.

 

Terry, I'm gonna have to pass.

Your block + the needed parts+labor+ported heads+pulling my engine=too darn much