a few basic question on Larger Engines
see the problem is if i wanted a 9 second car i think i could do it fairly easily because MONEY IS POWER... BUT the biggest problem i am facing is the fact that I dont want it to have like plexiglass or lexan windows, i dont want it to be internally GUTTED OUT, I DO want a body Kit, I do want an audio system (im not talking about 4 amps and 4 subs) i mean 1 12" Power Hx2 with 1 amp IS JUST ENOUGH FOR ME!!!... i want a nice looking car as well as being fast and that is what is causing this problem... I want to be able to drive this Hoe on the road and when i goto the track and i put on slicks and Shoot pills i wanna run low 9's. If looks were of no matter to me i wouldnt be here right now, becuase if i got the weight down to 2300Lbs this would be A HELL OF ALOT EASIER to accomplish... Instead of stripping gear off to save weight & run 9's i want to add more power and run 9's. and this is where i am having problems...
The only other thing i want out of this car is atleast 75,000 Miles PER engine, Per Transmission, and Per RearEnd... thats it....
because those are the 3 major parts.
if some pullies crack and the clutch blows after 3000 miles or less and my flywheel brakes WHATEVER!!! i dont care i just want reliability out of the engine block itself the tranny and the rearend.
is there anyway i can strip parts of the car to get it lighter without effecting the exterior or interior (for the most part) look. Custom Carbon fiber body kit, Custom carbon fiber doors, Carbon Hood, QuarterPanels (fenders) etc. , Light racing seats, Completly Remove REAR seats and slide the fronts back all the way make it into a 2 seater Some light magnesium rims. maybe thinner windows. cuz this still does have to be street legal.
Maybe go on a diet myself!!!! lol shave off 20-35 lbs from myself (no im not really fat but still)
Thats generally what i need, and again if looks werent an issue and it was all out speed i wouldnt be here right now, because with a 650HP motor if i were gutted to nothing i could break into low 9's but i dont want it to be a drag racing car only.
Thanks for the criticism (sp?).
I cant member who's question it was but im 20 right now and 21 in August, so im still fairly young and have alot of time ahead of me. i been into imports since 9ish and around 18 i started getting into domestics, and now i just Despise ALL IMPORTS and ALL MUSTANGS ... just a little about me.
Anyone know where i can get Lingenfelter 427 CI TT motor information? i searched there site and i couldnt find it
and im talking about TONS AND TONS AND TONS of low to mid 9 second supras THAT ARE NOT GUTTED AND ARE NICE INSIDE AND OUT!!! they are street legal too (givin they are not using slicks or nos hooked up at the time they are on the road)
they way the same as us. and use a twin turbo 2jze motor (which is a 6 cylinder 3 litre) with Usually NO MORE then a 150 shot Nos...
2jze is a stock motor on the TT supra and they mod it with cranks pullies and connecting rods bump up the turbine.
and im being told that our 7 litre v8 engines that ARENT even stock and cost around 15 grand and were built for racing cant push us into these same time zones?
i hope i dont sound like defending imports cuz im not i cant stand them thats why i want to be able to run 9's with this firebird, and i want to be able to represent us all... to be able to give us a good name. for all those who flame on us... the war is just beginning and these imports grow more and more and bigger and bigger...
Any comments on that?
Sure there are many single turbo supras, that "should" be low 9 seocnd cars, but they're not. I know of 1 9.0 supra and its not full interior, ect..
There are a few in that category, but not tons like you say...
Of the 9 second cars in orlando that are daily driveable/driven to the track, and run 9's, the combination is similar.
Turbo, strong motor, bullet proof drivetrain.
Thats how i would do your project,, but honestly i would do it with a 92 LX 5.0 notch, as they are a LOT cheaper, lighter, and easier to build up to this level you want.
Ryan.
Have you ever been in a 8 second car? Your goals are flat out unrealistic, I am sorry to agree with everyone else. Read the boards often, look at what others are doing to reach certain ETs etc and be patient. Good luck with your project.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
On a more serious note, there is not a vehicle in existence that can run sub 9 sec. 1/4 miles weighing 3500+ lbs. pushing 900+ hp that will not have serious and frequent drivetrain failures (especially with a T56 tranny).
If you go 10,000 miles without a failure, it will be because the first time you got on it, it scared you so bad that you never got on it again. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
The laws of physics and metallurgy are against you. You can make a car that heavy go that fast, but stuff will break. Again, the T56 will be the weak link, it just was never designed for that kind of power. Also, I would invest in a good scatter shield.
As was stated earlier, once you hit mid-10s, it gets harder and harder to knock of 10ths let alone another second and a half. If 9 seconds was easy, we would all be doing it. While you are not exactly talking the 'Holy Grail', it will be difficult, elusive, and very expensive. Rest assured that things will not go as you plan them.
If nothing else, you are embarking on an interesting journey which will prove to be most educational. Good Luck! <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
<small>[ January 30, 2003, 11:05 PM: Message edited by: 1bad2k2ta ]</small>
Next, the cheapest and reliable way to start is to mod the iron LS1 block to the size of 415-422CI with 4340 forged crank, light weight pro forged pistons and rods, etc. You'll need to upgrade the differential to a 3.73, 3.90, or 4.10 gear. If you'll have to upgrade the half shafts or axles depending on which car you have if you plan on numerous runs at the strip.
The cost of all of this can get quite high. Say at least $25K to start.
Think of all these mods as a complete package designed to compliment each mod for the most power transferred to the pavement.
A more realistic approach is to start with the best moded engine (strong block and LS6 ported heads)possible for daily use. Then tranny mods followed by rearend mods, not necessarily in this order. Add additional mods to strengthen the chassis and provide reasonable safety and reliability.
You mentioned a goal of about 900HP. The Lingenfelter TT427 is rated at 724HP and I saw one run under 10 sec last April. That was a completely modified car...body, engine, tranny, complete drivetrain not to mention the PCM programming.
Chuck Mallett's just completing work on my car which has the C5R Motorsport 427 block with CNC ported LS6 heads along with a lot of extensive mods to make sure it holds together. I don't expect to get better than mid-10 sec with my car.
A more realistic goal might be a 500-600 HP NA stroker engine with ~415 CI or 382 using AL LS1 block, tranny mods, rearend mods, PCM upgrade and mods. This will probably run about $20-25K to do it right. Keep in mind, you may get work done at some places cheaper, however, you normally get what you pay for.
...I can only tell you that when I got my z28, it took me a while to get used to the power. And I had a 15sec car before that...
When you say that you simply want to shave 4 sec , just like that... <img border="0" alt="[angel]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_angel.gif" />
...I also suspect that you might be looking not for a 9.0 sec car, but for a car with a very high mph to run with those supra's on interstate highways <img border="0" alt="[gruffy cottonball]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_gruffy.gif" />



