Inside----> a 383 build with balls
I could build a disgusting, track worthy but streetable 383 with a big shot for the track (ha, and the street) for a similar price, if not less.
I am looking for close to 500/500 numbers, more with N20, and 10 second timecards NA with either motor (suspension, 4400 stall, 4.10s and radials)
How does this sound for a parts list for me for a 383 build. Keep in mind, it is a daily driver but could see 200-300 N20 at the track.
-Lunati Forged 4.00'' crankshaft (is this overkill, should we stay with Eagle?)
-Scat H-beam rods w. arp2000 rod bolts (should we go with Callies, Lunati pro mod or Lunati pro billet? or are we okay with the scat's?)
-Diamond full N20 piston set w/ heavy duty steel top (chrome top better??, W2W piston instead??)
-ARP main caps, studs, bolts. What else to build to spin to 7200 redline
-AFR 225 heads milled to 66cc (different mill?) with 2.02/1.57 valves (should we bump up to 2.8/1.60 valves with more cubes and higher revs??). Should we go with out of box AFRs or have them CNC'd? What about a set of ETP 215s or some Trickflows?? Maybe even L92s??? Cometic gaskets or gm?
-244/250ish cam on LSk lobes, looking for sick idle, 11.5:1 CR and power from 4000-7200 on 91 octane. Different cam for this power range? I love the 110lsa cam sounds, but am not a guru by any means so advice here is needed.
-42lb injectors and in-tank fuel pump (will this be enough for 200-300 shot)
-Fast 90/90 or Vic Jr. setup? L76 if I go with L92s
-LS7 lifters, LS6 oil pump, double roller timing chain, chromolly pushrods, patriot or PRC dual valvesprings to .650 lift.
-Harris speed works N20 kit with a "small" shot
What are the chances of running the L92 heads and L76 intake on a 383?
Did I read right that the stock LS1 block doesn't need to be bored out to make a 383, just the stroker crank install? Anyone with this experience chime in!
Is this a horrible idea? Should I go with the flow and buy a 408 and be fast buy be nothing special? Or, should I go with a nice 383, be different, have SOME street manners, but **** the doors off with the flip of a switch?
You are right the ls1 block does not need to be bored out for a 382. You will however need a hone to clean up the cylinder walls and set your proper piston to cylinder wall clearance. It is not recommended to bore/hone the ls1/ls6 blocks because of thin cylinder wall liners.
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For engine components, Lunati Crank, Oliver Rods, and 2618 Wiseco pistons will put anything else to shame. Go for the 1/16" ring set for better seal. ARP main studs are all you need. That'll handle a 300 shot no problem.
I'd go with small bore AFR 225s out of the box with AFR 8019 springs milled down to 61cc or so (11.7:1 CR with 6cc dish in the Wiseco pistons), Ported FAST 90/90, an Ed Curtis Custom cam like the Hellraiser 238/242 .650"/.630" 111+2 LSA, and high-velocity merge collector headers from American Racing/QTP into true duals with 3" bullets.
With Cometic .040s, EWP, UD Pulley, and Morel lifters, you should see 500-515rwhp and about 475rwtq.
Of course, I'd also spend the money on hollow-stem valves for less weight, then run Jesel J2K rockers with Manton or Trend .135" 3/8' pushrods. You can spin that to 7400 with no problem even with LSK or other aggressive lobes using a standard spring.
I'm already out of your price range, but I'd look into the Textralia Exo-Skel twin disk clutch as well to help out.









