I usually drive my car in warm weather..it was cooler tonite..around 10 maybe or even less and I have a b1,m6 car..I have drilled my tb out to 13/64 and reversed the idle screw on the tb..I had the idle set a bit higher previously but wanted to get a bit more lope out of the cam so turned it down..now when I started it tonite it almost stalled a few times..seemed to be ok when fully warmed up..is this normal..Also my iac go to zero at the lights and if i Put the idle much higher on the tb screw then it seems to take a very long time for the car to return to idle at the lights..almost like a sticking throttle ..when I turn down that idle screw car seems to go down quicker but now this rough running cold ..what do you guys thing..is it bad for m6 cars to go to zero iac at idle..what exact symptoms does it cause..I can jb weld or put some rivet or grommet in the tb or something if I have to..

 

Personally I think that you may have issues with vacuum leaks. I have the B1 cam (installed it in the middle of last winter) and drive my car everyday with no issues. I have not drilled the TB. My IAC's are ~18-20. I just bolted on a set of S2 heads and it still drives just the same (no idling issues).

 

If your IAC is going zero, It is losing the ability to control the idle. Use the TB set screw to CLOSE the TB and this should raise your IAC count.

BTW, if this is the first time car has been run in cold weather since the cam, you might go out on a cold morning and try the idle relearn procedure.

 

Yep what ragtop said <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> Mine would do the same before tuning. On cold morning start ups the car would surge and sometimes die until it was warmed to operating temps. I would pick the idle up some and you should be in better shape. Mine idle with the Ed Wright tuning is set for 850 rpms and it still lopes good,now 650 sounded real good but would not idle well.