My pcm is offered to you for your cause!

 

CrawlinWS6 just called me, siad that his PCM out of his 02 WS6 is sitting on the shelf and that i could use it.. Thanks Jay!!! I will let you know

 

I'm still at a loss as to why the IAC needs to read higher than 190??? It should be in the 120's on a cold startup and settle in around 60 once up to temp.

 

All unplugging will do is revert to the low octane table (which you copied) and the car will turn the SES on and you will run in SD. I have been running like that ever since I swapped my engine and ditched the MAF, no problems.

19* WTF??? You need a lot more than that to fix surging. Thats your main problem right there likely. Try something like this, its my half *** blind tune i did to hold me over till i get HPT next week.

23.0 26.0 31.0 34.0 36.0 40.0 43.0
23.0 26.0 31.0 34.0 36.0 40.0 43.0
23.0 26.0 31.0 34.0 36.0 40.0 43.0
23.0 26.0 31.0 34.0 36.0 40.0 40.0
21.0 26.0 32.0 35.0 36.0 38.0 39.0
24.0 27.0 29.0 32.0 33.0 35.0 37.0
28.0 29.5 28.0 31.0 30.0 33.0 35.0
24.0 25.8 24.0 28.0 29.0 32.0 35.0
22.0 24.0 23.0 26.0 28.0 31.0 32.0
20.0 22.0 19.0 24.0 25.0 29.0 31.0

 

any more timing added would make the car buck more..... i will try unplugging the MAF and see what happens

 

No you have it *** backwards, too less timing will cause bucking, you add spark advance on the low end with a cam to stop bucking. Who is doing the tuning if you dont mind? Is it someone well known here? Sorry if your tuner reads this but if he is pulling timing on the low end with a cam like that then he has no idea how to tune. I hope he isnt adding fuel either because you should be pulling fuel down low.

Big cam = less fuel and more spark advance.

i posted some spark numbers above, if you want my whole table i can give it to you, like i said it is a half *** blind tune to keep it running good at low rpm's only. i didnt bother doing anything else.

 

That is exactly right and is extremely important in getting a large cam to idle.

Here is a thread that might help you get started on fixing your problem.

http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10978

 

Here are some of my tables to give you an idea of what yours should resemble somewhat, my car runs fine too, even though the tables could use some adjustments for optimum performance.

With timing like you mentioned Jonas that car with that cam will never idle or even drive right, i bet its bucking like crazy now that you told me how much timing you are running. It would be driving me nuts man. Turn that timing up a lot and pull the fuel and you will feel an instant change.

My tables need some real tuning by far, but it runs fine and is pleasurable to drive around town like this and it gives me great warm starts. I will tune it right next week after i get HPT, so for now this is what i got.

IAC Park:
33.00 28.00 23.00 21.00 21.00 21.00 21.00 21.00 21.00 21.00

Idle running airflow in gear:
22.00 19.00 15.20 12.20 10.40 8.60 8.60 8.60 8.60 8.60

VE table, i have 2000 PCM so i have a secondary table, map goes from 20 to 100 in increments of 10 and rpm is from 400-1600 in increments of 400 rpm's. Scale it accordingly to your VE table. I went really low here since the cam wanted to force the car to keep adding fuel, going this low got me a nice lean idle, just how i like it.

397 615 754 1108
468 698 870 1279
511 756 911 1334
537 790 952 1389
590 825 951 1371
610 853 985 1418
632 881 1018 1463
659 916 1076 1528
702 974 1128 1601

Spark table up to 1600 rpm and .4 Gms/cyl
23.0 26.0 31.0 34.0 36.0 40.0 43.0
23.0 26.0 31.0 34.0 36.0 40.0 43.0
23.0 26.0 31.0 34.0 36.0 40.0 43.0
23.0 26.0 31.0 34.0 36.0 40.0 40.0
21.0 26.0 32.0 35.0 36.0 38.0 39.0
24.0 27.0 29.0 32.0 33.0 35.0 37.0
28.0 29.5 28.0 31.0 30.0 33.0 35.0
24.0 25.8 24.0 28.0 29.0 32.0 35.0
22.0 24.0 23.0 26.0 28.0 31.0 32.0

base spark in park
22.0 26.0 26.0 26.0 32.0
22.0 26.0 26.0 26.0 32.0
21.0 26.0 26.0 26.0 32.0
22.0 26.0 26.0 26.0 32.0
22.0 26.0 26.0 26.0 32.0
22.0 26.0 26.0 26.0 32.0
22.0 26.0 26.0 26.0 32.0
22.0 26.0 26.0 26.0 32.0
22.0 26.0 26.0 26.0 32.0

base spark in drive
22.0 26.0 26.0 26.0 32.0
22.0 26.0 26.0 26.0 32.0
21.0 26.0 26.0 26.0 32.0
22.0 26.0 26.0 26.0 32.0
22.0 26.0 26.0 26.0 32.0
22.0 26.0 26.0 26.0 32.0
22.0 26.0 26.0 26.0 32.0
25.0 25.0 26.0 26.0 32.0
24.0 24.0 26.0 26.0 32.0

 

thanks for all your help here brad. I am sure that tuner is reading this which is not a problem. I do not want to name any names. If he wants to respond he can... But i am sure he sees and prolyl has tried this, as for my timing goes, maybe i do have more, i could be mistaking i would have to ask him...

i will get back to you..

 

Good luck man, be sure to get that timing up a lot though that may be your problem. if you are at 19* in these cells you wont idle or drive right.

 

Brad i had 29* of timing in the car, but the bucking was unbearable. Took it down to 19* and got rid a lot of bucking.....

 

Well i ahve my buddies (CrawlinWS6) 2002n PCM.. Either this week Tues. or Thurs. I am going to swap mine out put his in and put my tune in it. See if there is any difference.....

 

29 degrees where at in the table? 29 is too much for many parts of it. You are going from one extreme to the other, tuning needs to be done in steps to get it right, you cant just go making huge jumps like that. 29 sucked so you go to like 25 or 26 and see how it reacts, then go lower if need be.

 

I have been following this thread since it began and following this cam swap since before this thread as well since, this is quite similar to what I have ordered (227/234 LSK/XER 110+2). And I must admit I am quite suprised by this outcome so far. Mike, from what you are saying here it sounded to me as though you had fewer problems tuning a TREX on a 110 with no advance than this one. I find it hard to believe the 4 deg advance is causing that much additional headache, but if it is have you guys considered retarding the camshaft. Get an adjustable timing set, retard it 4 deg and it will be straight uo 110 LSA with a 110 ICL. I was also wondering if you guys installed the cam and if you did was the ICL checked (degreed). Afterall, we have seen a Comp cam ordered with 2 deg advance come with a cam card stating 2 deg advance but was actually 4 deg adv. Could it be possible there was a mistake on this one. Or was it possible that perhaps the gear set was installed a tooth or mark off? I know it sounds crazy, but I built motors for 10 years and still managed to screw one up on one of my personal builds ( 3 way adjustable gear set and I aligned the dot on the cam gear with the mark marking the keyway instead of the one marking the alignment). That would cause some driveability issues for sure, especially if it was retarded, which would shift the power band way up and take away a ton of low end. Just food for thought if the computer does not fix the problem. Even if you all still decide to pull the cam, it would be nice to know for sure everything was ground and installed correctly.

 

i am going friday to swap PCMs to see if anything changes... I will keep you all updated

 

This thread inspired me to change my sig...

 

 

ohh man LOL

 

any updates?

 

Me (oddly enough,... too) That cam is a proven pavement pounder! don't be surprised if the problems resurface with a different cam! It always depends on the complete set-up you know supporting mods and all that ****! It costs so fuken much that it has taken me a couple of YEARS to get where I'm at which is doing the L.S.6 ported heads and the comp 228/232......112 and for my **** I think it will be perfect. I don't want a pure drag car, I need to drive some,.......eh,......road trips occasionally. You know,....we call it,....touring with ,....authority.................