So what cam spec should I look for if I want to get the most area under the torque and power curves?

Mods list:
Air lid, GMS MAF, LS6 intake, LS1 block, stock heads, FLP longtube headers, B&B triflow catback, free Ram Air mod, stock rear with 3.42 gears. Oh yeah, and a forged bottom end yeilding 382-383 cubic inches of displacement! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

I realize I listed that I have a stock set of LS1 heads, unported. I know they heads and cam need to be matched, and they also both need to be matched to my specific "application". So, I'm curious about heads as well.

Here's what I've come up with after reading about as much as I could find on cams, in trying to get what I want out of it. I'm thinking a good stage 1 port or a mild stage 2 port of my existing heads along with a cam that is something like 221/221/.55X/.55X with a 114 lsa. I know this is very mild compared to what some of the 346 ci guys are running, but I'm not looking for a motor that has it's peak HP at 6500+ RPMs. In fact, I don't want to change the rev limiter from 6200, or whatever it is. I realize I might be sacrificing some HP at the top.

All the posts I've read about "which cam???" have almost all had replies saying "it depends on what you want to do and what you have to go with it". So, what I have is listed above and what I want is something that idles close to stock, but doesn't have to be a complete sleeper, something that makes good torque and good HP all the way through the RPM band, not just at 6000+ RPMs, and something that will bring out the full potential of the added cubes.

Maybe even something milder than what I suggested above, like a 218/218 .53X/.53X and a 114 lsa?

Suggestions are extremely welcome.

P.S. as far as cam specs are concerned, the numbers I came up with above are just a "feeler" guess based on all that I've read about them. I don't have any experience first hand with anything other than the stock cam on a stock cubed engine. I've read that with a larger displacement, you can go with a bigger cam and it will still idle and sound close to stock, so I'm trying to adjust my guess to that. But again, I'm just making a guess here....

 

The best overall engine setup I've owned in this car in terms of all-around performance, drivability, etc. was my 382ci with the MTI T1 camshaft. It idled and drove very nice, almost stock, but still made 455 rwhp and 440 ft-lbs. I ran 11.1s in a full weight car (3600#) with that setup. If you want torque, go with less LSA, 112.

If you want power to match the torque, I'd recommend the MTI X1 camshaft for the 382. You shouldn't give up any torque vs a T1, but possibly gain some higher rpm power as a bonus. Should drive nicely in those cubes also, as guys are living with them in 346ci setups.

-Tony

 

Thanks for the info Tony!

I just went to MTI's site to see the specs (I don't have them committed to memory just yet..) and it looks like I described the B1 almost perfectly in my original post and the only difference between that and the T1 is the LSA.

So with a 382, would a 112 LSA lope that much less than it would in a 346? From what I've been reading, the feeling I get is that 112-114 LSA seems to be where you switch from a slight burble to more of a good lope in the 346. I sure don't want a top fuel dragster sound. I'm the type that would rather have the car perform better than it sounds, more bite than bark, not the other way around.

The other things that make the decision hard is that everyone has a different opinion on what is lopy and what is driveable and what sounds "good". Also, most people don't have the exact same setup with only 1 variable to compare. I've also read that you should go 1 step up from what you think you want so you don't regret it later.

So, if I think I want the B1, I'm willing to go a "half step" up and get a T1. The X1 looks REALLY aggressive compared to what I'm looking for. I don't mean to shoot down your suggestion, Nineball, just that X1 looks like a monster. But then again, I don't really have a basis to go on.

Anyway, I think I'm leaning towards a T1 type cam for now. Anyone else?

Thanks again,
Erik

 

The X1 kinda is a monster with only 346ci (although there are many enjoying them on the street) but it should be perfect for you at 382ci. LS1Edit programming can really help to tame the drivability problems associated with bigger cams. If you're that worried about idle and drivability you could opt for a little wider LSA. Maybe go 114-115 instead of 112.

 

Erik,

Keep in mind that a cam that idles rough in a 346 is going to be quite a bit smoother with the added cubes you're looking at. There's no doubt that a 221/221 is a MILD cam for a 382. I had a 224/224 112 LSA in my SS for a while, and the idle was great. You could hear it lope some, but it drove perfectly. I had it idling at 825 RPM in my auto without any problems. I would expect it to idle very close to stock in a 382. I'm now running a 228/228 111 LSA with stock cubes, and while it does have a distinct lope to it, it's still very drivable. Sure, drivability is purely subjective, but I still drive the car everywhere. It idles at 900 without any surging, etc. It peaked at 6,400 in my car with stock cubes, FYI, and I would expect it to idle really nice in a 382. I'm sure you'll have somewhat of a lope, but it will be pretty tame.

I had a 382 in my '98 T/A, and the first cam that was installed was a 221/221 116 LSA. It idled as smooth as stock. This was back in early 2000, so there are a ton more cam choices out there. If I were looking for an idle that was very close to stock but still wanted some nice power from a 382, I'd go with Comp's XE-R 224/224 on a 112 LSA. JMO

Trevor

 

well, i can just tell you about the two cams I've had in my 382 stroker. I've got every engine mod you can do with a mild set of locally ported heads.
I'd guess you want something like my 224/224 .539 114lsa, which I have for sale btw. It idled a little more agressive from stock but had good power, it was a great sleeper cam!! 448rwhp/439rwtq and sounding about stock. I wanted something more aggressive so i went to a 236/232 .602/.575 112. MUCH more lope and more power 456/435 untuned, sounds a lot better to me and it's still really driveable and idles well, but it does shake the car quite a bit.

 

Thanks again for all the comments and opinions. You guys are great!

I think if I keep reading this thread, I'm gonna end up getting something like 270/270/.65X/.65X and a 106 LSA!!!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

But seriously, it seems like everyone thinks that a 221/221 with a 112 LSA will be very tame in the 382. I think I forgot to mention that I will have to pass emmissions testing on a yearly basis, so I know that might change things a bit. I got the FLPs for this reason since I can more easily put the cats back on for the testing. So, in a 382/383, would a 112 LSA be able to pass emmissions?

Also, are these recommendations given with STOCK heads in mind, or is everyone assuming I'll get my heads ported to stage 2 or something similar? I'm not saying I won't get the heads done, just it's not on the table right now. I'm still a ways off on getting things back together, so in time, I may be able to get the heads done too.

Many thanks again!

 

One more question about this too. I've read a few times about timing and the effects it has with a cam. I believe it was that if you advance the timing, you effectively shift the powerband DOWN in the RPM range? Is this correct? So, if I were to advance the timing 2 degrees, how far down would it shift the powerband? Does it shift the torque band as well? I'm assuming it would.

If this is true, then is it possible to get a "bigger" cam that makes it's peak power at 6600 RPM and advance the timing so that the peak gets shifted to 6000RPM? What are the implications of advancing the timing like this?

Thanks again!

 

I was assuming ported heads. You'll surely want 'em eventually.

I'd want a 114 for emissions. Not saying a 112 won't pass but it'll be a little harder. A 221 is just too small for a 382, IMO. X1 on a 114 gets my vote IF a good port job is coming. If not then you'll want something with much less lift.

 

"I believe it was that if you advance the timing, you effectively shift the powerband DOWN in the RPM range? Is this correct?"

You're talking about advancing the cam timing (not to be confused with advancing the ingition timing.) Yes, that'll *tend* to bring the powerband down. Maybe 150 RPM for every 2 degrees (there is no set rule on this. Engines vary. Sometimes people find that advancing the cam 2 degrees does practically nothing. Valve timing as a whole is a fairly complicated thing.)

You can't bring the HP range down without bringing the TQ range down as well since HP is merely a function of TQ and rpm.

<small>[ October 24, 2002, 11:07 AM: Message edited by: Colonel ]</small>

 

Do the T1 if you don't like it ****** it out and put something bigger. <img border="0" alt="[devil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />

 

Thanks again. I meant cam timimg when I said "advance the timing". Thanks for clarifying, Colonel.

I have the SLP double row timing chain. So to advance the cam timing, do you just adjust the timing with the chain, or is this something that you need to adjust with LS1Edit or some other PCM tuning? Or can you do it with both? Or do you have to get it "ground" (past tense of grind) that way, like "I got it with 4 degrees of advance ground in"...

 

The T1 has 4 degrees of advance ground in.