? about lifter/valve spring preload + some other ?'s
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Does anyone know the best way to set and check valve spring preload? I've heard it need's to be 1.5-2.0 turns from 0 lash and I also heard it should be .50-1.0 turn from 0 lash. Anyone know for sure? Not looking forward to doing this, but need to get it done.
Also, just got the timing chain cover off and measured a 1/2" of play on the timing chain . I know this is way excessive and I have a new one on it's way, but what is the maximum chain play we can have?
One more thing, since I'm this deep into the motor and have to pull the oil pump, who make's the best after market replacement pump?
Thanks,
Dan
<small>[ October 20, 2002, 11:12 PM: Message edited by: DanZ28 ]</small>
Also, just got the timing chain cover off and measured a 1/2" of play on the timing chain . I know this is way excessive and I have a new one on it's way, but what is the maximum chain play we can have?
One more thing, since I'm this deep into the motor and have to pull the oil pump, who make's the best after market replacement pump?
Thanks,
Dan
<small>[ October 20, 2002, 11:12 PM: Message edited by: DanZ28 ]</small>
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LOL!
And this is a technical site, glad I was able to find answers to my ? by making some phone calls. Thanks for all recomendations people...
Dan
And this is a technical site, glad I was able to find answers to my ? by making some phone calls. Thanks for all recomendations people...
Dan
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Dan..
Supposidly 2.0 - 2.2 turns of the rocker bolt will yield the factory preload on the lifter (as per Joe Prince @ JPR). I have also heard that this can be as little as 1 turn until achieving 22 LB Ft of torque on the bolt. As you know, there is a variance allowed by the lifters. A plus or minus if you will.
Remember, you need to make sure the cam lifter is on the lobe heal of the cam. That's the point of no valve lift. Loosen the rocker. Then tighten it until the pushrod starts to get harder to spin with your fingers. Thats the point of zero lash. Then mark the bolt with a magic marker. Turn until you achieve 22 LB Ft torque. The bolt should have turned about 2 turns.
Hope this helps,
Ron
Supposidly 2.0 - 2.2 turns of the rocker bolt will yield the factory preload on the lifter (as per Joe Prince @ JPR). I have also heard that this can be as little as 1 turn until achieving 22 LB Ft of torque on the bolt. As you know, there is a variance allowed by the lifters. A plus or minus if you will.
Remember, you need to make sure the cam lifter is on the lobe heal of the cam. That's the point of no valve lift. Loosen the rocker. Then tighten it until the pushrod starts to get harder to spin with your fingers. Thats the point of zero lash. Then mark the bolt with a magic marker. Turn until you achieve 22 LB Ft torque. The bolt should have turned about 2 turns.
Hope this helps,
Ron
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Also, just got the timing chain cover off and measured a 1/2" of play on the timing chain . I know this is way excessive and I have a new one on it's way, but what is the maximum chain play we can have?
I would put a new chain on it. Stock chain P/N 12552954, about $30 GM discount price
Rollmaster / Jwis single chain Timing Set (chain and gears), less than $70 delivered, KB Engine Parts-Australia, Darren, kbengineparts@hotmail.com
(much better quality Timing Set than stock)
One more thing, since I'm this deep into the motor and have to pull the oil pump, who make's the best after market replacement pump?
ARE (one of our sponsors) modifies the stock pump. While I am not going to put one of them on my engine, many folks really believe in them. It's up to you. BTW, I believe you will need to lower your oil pan slightly to install it. You may want to do a search and find out for sure.
Ron,
I would put a new chain on it. Stock chain P/N 12552954, about $30 GM discount price
Rollmaster / Jwis single chain Timing Set (chain and gears), less than $70 delivered, KB Engine Parts-Australia, Darren, kbengineparts@hotmail.com
(much better quality Timing Set than stock)
One more thing, since I'm this deep into the motor and have to pull the oil pump, who make's the best after market replacement pump?
ARE (one of our sponsors) modifies the stock pump. While I am not going to put one of them on my engine, many folks really believe in them. It's up to you. BTW, I believe you will need to lower your oil pan slightly to install it. You may want to do a search and find out for sure.
Ron,
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Dan...
Sometimes you just need to wait a little while to get an answer on this board. There are many folks here that are willing to try to help you or anyone else. Sometimes the answers come fast, sometimes it takes awhile. Ya just can't get too impatient <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Sometimes you just need to wait a little while to get an answer on this board. There are many folks here that are willing to try to help you or anyone else. Sometimes the answers come fast, sometimes it takes awhile. Ya just can't get too impatient <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
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Kimshee, Thanks for all your advice bro, I thought this post was dead, and yeah, I need patiance cause I was running out of them as needed some advice a little quicker.
I kept the stock pump and just went with a Jwis chain only. My 7.350 pushrods were about 1 turn from 0 lash to 22 lbft. and the 7.400 were close to 2 turns, Hmmm...Well it's all coming back apart now cause I now have a tapping sound after running at the track. Funny thing is, the sound only come's while holding a cruising RPM on the freeway. I think it's a lifter now, but who know's. Again, thanks for the help...
Dan
I kept the stock pump and just went with a Jwis chain only. My 7.350 pushrods were about 1 turn from 0 lash to 22 lbft. and the 7.400 were close to 2 turns, Hmmm...Well it's all coming back apart now cause I now have a tapping sound after running at the track. Funny thing is, the sound only come's while holding a cruising RPM on the freeway. I think it's a lifter now, but who know's. Again, thanks for the help...
Dan