Engine rebuild????
I am forced to do a rebuild because of a knock <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> . I would love to do a stroker but at 3K+ it is a little pricey for me. What other options do I have for some increased performance? Also I have the manuals, and have rebuilt engines before but is there anything special to the LS1 not documented in the helms???. I also saw that a tool is required for the front cover alignment. Why couldn't I just slip the crank pulley on to keep it centered? BTW my current configuration is a stock 98 LS1 with pace 85mm MAF/IAT and K&N filter
To center the timing cover, finger thread in all of the timing cover bolts then install your pulley, tighten the pulley down and then torque your timing cover bolts down.
I'll tell you this...you WILL spend at least 1500 if you really rebuild the engine. I have over 2k and I'm not replacing the rings in mine nor the mains. However, I did buy a cam, timing chain, valve springs, lifters, pushrods, titanium retainers, rod bearings, and a clutch because it was F'd up pretty bad(black and blue) <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" /> It is about another 200 or so If I were to replace the mains(bearings) and rings. These are at gm employee discounted prices. Some places are higher and some places will be lower on some things, but if your gunna tear it down you might make sure you have a good reason cuz your gunna spend some $$$$.
BTW-if its knocking its probably your rod bearings (pretty common). You can use the standard chevrolet 350 rod bearings. They are the same and only cost about $20 per set at an auto parts store as opposed to the dealer wanting $19 a piece and there are 8 of them <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />
<small>[ November 03, 2002, 04:56 AM: Message edited by: Taspeed ]</small>
BTW-if its knocking its probably your rod bearings (pretty common). You can use the standard chevrolet 350 rod bearings. They are the same and only cost about $20 per set at an auto parts store as opposed to the dealer wanting $19 a piece and there are 8 of them <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />
<small>[ November 03, 2002, 04:56 AM: Message edited by: Taspeed ]</small>
Thanks for the replies... Maybe I should tell a little back ground to make things clear. I got one of those deals that was too good to be true, and it seems like it was. I purchased a 98 LS1 with 50 miles on it for $1500. It was missing four coil packs and harness. I was told by the seller it was replaced for a bent pushrod. I didn't buy that so I have a friend that is a gm parts manager and had him run the vin. Sure enough it was warrentied out at 47 miles for repeated upper valve train problems???? So I went and looked at the engine and was amazed how new it looked. Turned the crank 360 knowing it wouldn't tell me that much but at least I would have a little peace of mind. I looked at this engine from head to toe looking for coolant streaks or anything. Couldn't
T find anything so I bought it. Thinking at worst I could part out the good parts on ebay, and get most of my money back. It ended up being a hydraulically locked lifter. So I pulled the head and replaced it. I installed the engine in my 87 Fiero GT and heard a faint knock at times. I was told by everyone don't worry about it that it was piston slap and is normal. I since put about 500 miles on the car and taking off from a stop sign it gets louder. At the next one it gets very loud, but it doesn't sound like a rod knock to me. It sounds more like something was hitting a valve cover. So I pulled the covers and everything looked fine( I was hoping that maybe the rocker was over stressed from the froze lifter and had broken. No such luck), and that would of explained something hitting the valve cover. I put it back together and have a friend listen to it thinking two heads are better than one, and when revving the sound did go lower and sound more like a rod knock. So that is where I am at. I am pulling the engine today, and it shouldn't take me that long to pull the pan. So I don't plan to touch the piston or rings( BTW when I pulled the one head I could still read the GM part numbers printed in ink atop the pistons <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> )
I did do a search before and found the part numbers for the chevettes rods and federal mogul main bearings. I want the stroker kit but it is just more than I want to spend <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> I am defiantly replacing the oil pump. And maybe the cam ( did a search on that and am more confused than when I started) I thinking because I have stock heads and intake I should just go with the GM hot cam ( I have a M5). Sorry for such a long post, just trying to explain why I would even consider a partial rebuild. <img border="0" alt="[Banging Head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" />
T find anything so I bought it. Thinking at worst I could part out the good parts on ebay, and get most of my money back. It ended up being a hydraulically locked lifter. So I pulled the head and replaced it. I installed the engine in my 87 Fiero GT and heard a faint knock at times. I was told by everyone don't worry about it that it was piston slap and is normal. I since put about 500 miles on the car and taking off from a stop sign it gets louder. At the next one it gets very loud, but it doesn't sound like a rod knock to me. It sounds more like something was hitting a valve cover. So I pulled the covers and everything looked fine( I was hoping that maybe the rocker was over stressed from the froze lifter and had broken. No such luck), and that would of explained something hitting the valve cover. I put it back together and have a friend listen to it thinking two heads are better than one, and when revving the sound did go lower and sound more like a rod knock. So that is where I am at. I am pulling the engine today, and it shouldn't take me that long to pull the pan. So I don't plan to touch the piston or rings( BTW when I pulled the one head I could still read the GM part numbers printed in ink atop the pistons <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> )
I did do a search before and found the part numbers for the chevettes rods and federal mogul main bearings. I want the stroker kit but it is just more than I want to spend <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> I am defiantly replacing the oil pump. And maybe the cam ( did a search on that and am more confused than when I started) I thinking because I have stock heads and intake I should just go with the GM hot cam ( I have a M5). Sorry for such a long post, just trying to explain why I would even consider a partial rebuild. <img border="0" alt="[Banging Head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" />


