After doing some research, I came to the conclusion that the 918's arent gonna cut it with the cam i am installing in my car. its a 228/236 590/601 111 cam, i am going to get the rev 1116 dual springs. With these springs, do i need to remove the heads to get the seats machined to fit these, or will they fit without any modification? also, if theres a better spring out there that would work better with my cam, post that also.
thanks!

 

You can swap them on the car with no modifications to the heads. I got some, and they are a great springs. They should work great with your lift.

 

awesome, thanks for the quick reply!!

 

If you are planning to swap these out while the heads are in the car ....good luck!

They are VERY stout springs...

I have new heads out of the car and I'm having diffuculty swapping srings... I'm on my third spring compressor....none have worked so far....

I am told the GM SER912 tool works well but I dont think it fits the back springs if the heads are in the car...

 

It will fit in the back, you just have to cut off the top of the handle just above that screw hole. I've gotta say, the More performance tool made those back ones easy. I also had an overhead compressor that worked. It took several times of getting the spring set just right and putting the keepers in was like playing with a loaded gun, but it works.

 

Yeh...what ever you do make sure you were eye protection....if one of these babies flies your way it could deeply imbed itself within the cortex of your brain...

 

Most auto part stores that sell KD tools will have a lever type spring compressor part #KD-912. I got mine at a local NAPA store. Cut off the handle just above the hole half way up the lever. Cutting the handle gives clearance for F-body cars. Deburr the cut edge to prevent body leaks Remove all the rocker arms and the rocker saddle stand. Pushrods do not need to be removed. Rest the heel of the tool on the intake valve cover rail and position the fork over the retainer. Use a rocker arm bolt with a flat washer and thread it into the rocker bolt hole. Tighten the rocker bolt with a ratchet until the spring is compressed enough to remove the valve locks. There is no need to touch the compressor handle during this proceedure. I found it best to air up the cylinder with compressed air to hold the valves onto the seats. This method was extreamly quick, easy and painless.

Good luck,

Richard

 

I don't have anything to really add to this discussion other than this picture I just took last night of my 1116s!

 

A picture is worth a thousand words.

 

Yeah I must say, that is a thing of beauty. I almost didn't want to put the valve covers back on just so everyone could see em. My neighbor (who isn't a car guy noted the difference between stock and the REVs) I'll try and get a pic of what's left of my More Performance Tool. You guys will get a kick out of it.

 

a friend of mine made a spring compressor that works on just about any spring. its kinda like the more performance tool, but more durable. we took a napa spring compressor, the fulcrum type, and cut it above the hole on the lever. we then cut 2 sockets in half, and welded the square 3/8" part to each side in the V part of the compressor. you can now use a ratchet and extension to get to the springs.

 

As soon as they released that tool, I thought the aluminum construction would just not hold up. Steel, that's the ticket, even if the machine work costs more.

 

Hey Richard your picture is great.

Question: My REV 1116s came with hardened seats; your picture doesn't show any seats under the steel cup that holds the valve seals. Are these seats needed?

 

robertbartsch:
Sorry the pic above isn't mine, however the REV dual spring kit I sell DOES have a proper spring seat. Email me if you need more info.

Richard

 

Damn, that's the best idea I've heard yet! I have a welder and that's exactly what I'm gonna do! Thanks a million for posting this . . .

 

Pics?!?!

 

Anyone know what sponsors have rev 1116 in stock

 

I didn't see this post til recently. I assure you, the hardened spring seats are there in my heads. I don't think you can install the springs without them.

 

I just don't know what you guys are doing to these tools. We have 2 in the shop that we use on every cam install that we do in the car. We use them on all 16 springs, not just the backs. Ours are in just a good of shape as they were new.

 

Ditto that. I used mine to remove a whole set of 1116's and then reinstall another whole set. It worked like a charm and still looks brand new.