Interesting look at engine break in technique...
Thread Starter
6600 rpm clutch dump of death Administrator
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,983
Likes: 13
From: Texas
Re: Interesting look at engine break in technique... How many new engines have you built that you could resist building a little cylinder pressure in within the first 50 miles! I've always run mine strong after the cam was broke in. Never burned oil, never spun a bearing, never wore a lobe off. Just changed the oil on a regular time frame. Just took care to never over rev. Works for me.
Re: Interesting look at engine break in technique... Okay, he made some good points very interesting read. I just got some bad impressions after getting to the bottom and see a list of "myths" he talks about. Seems like hes just trying to disprove everything. Another point I wanted to make is of the picture of the 2 pistons. Look closely above the first ring. What no discoloration at all? Cmon, the ring seat won't affect this area.
TECH Resident
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 929
Likes: 0
From: NC
Re: Interesting look at engine break in technique... I've always been a believer in break them in hard. Ever hear of a good race motor that was broken in with 1000 miles of easy street driving? Ring seal is key to a good running motor.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,234
Likes: 1
From: Mississauga, Ontario
Re: Interesting look at engine break in technique... I broke my LS1 in hard (was racing a Mustang on the highway at over 130mph with only 50 miles on the clock, and made 16 passes down the strip one week after getting it) and it never burned oil as long as I owned it (for 2.5yrs and 27k) No piston slap either.
Thread Starter
6600 rpm clutch dump of death Administrator
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,983
Likes: 13
From: Texas
Re: Interesting look at engine break in technique... I thought he made some interesting points. Whether or not I buy into them, is another matter. In my case, I broke in 2 new motors recently . Both were broken in on Mobil 1. One was 2.4L Nissan KA24E in my truck, and the other was a 3.8L Buick in my GN. When I go the Nissan running, and I started driving it. Changed the oil @ 500 and never looked back. The last motor has 272K miles on it, hopefully this one will get me a few more miles down the road. The GN is still getting broken in. I got it fired, and it pegged my 100psi oil pressure gauge. Once the oil got up to temp it came down to around 80psi. I ran it @ 2500-3000 for about 10 minutes until my new radiator sprung a leak. After getting that fixed, I re-fired the motor an ran it @ 4000 rpm for 20 minutes or so. We tooke it for a short drive to check the other systems, I plan to change the oil tonight and get it ready for street duty.
I can see the logic in not using a synthetic for break in. Especially when it comes to rings. My reason for doing so was because of the heat the turbo would generate during break in. But I can honestly see a good reason for not doing this. However, I think we all know that GM breaks motors in on synthetic oil. I would think they would have tested this, and if there was an issue, they would break them in on conventional oil, and then just instruct you that the car needed synthtic. You'd never know (other than oil analysis) what they put in from the factory.
Anyhow, just sharing some info...
I can see the logic in not using a synthetic for break in. Especially when it comes to rings. My reason for doing so was because of the heat the turbo would generate during break in. But I can honestly see a good reason for not doing this. However, I think we all know that GM breaks motors in on synthetic oil. I would think they would have tested this, and if there was an issue, they would break them in on conventional oil, and then just instruct you that the car needed synthtic. You'd never know (other than oil analysis) what they put in from the factory.
Anyhow, just sharing some info...
