Forging on a "Budget"
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FormerVendor
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Joined: May 2007
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From: Jacksonville Florida
Forging on a "Budget" Hello!
Ive been tossing around the idea to forge my motor somewhat on a budget, im not talking about any super high dollar stroker but simply rebuilding my LS1 shortblock with forged internals to get the best bang for the buck. Any suggestions or paths you guys would take is highly appreciated.
I was also kicking around the idea of doing a 6 liter iron block, I have a new set of PRC stage 2.5 5.3 heads and an MS3 that i am currently running, would i be able to re-use these with a 6 liter or would i be better of not doing that?
Ive been tossing around the idea to forge my motor somewhat on a budget, im not talking about any super high dollar stroker but simply rebuilding my LS1 shortblock with forged internals to get the best bang for the buck. Any suggestions or paths you guys would take is highly appreciated.
I was also kicking around the idea of doing a 6 liter iron block, I have a new set of PRC stage 2.5 5.3 heads and an MS3 that i am currently running, would i be able to re-use these with a 6 liter or would i be better of not doing that?
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 548
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From: Dublin, CA
To go cheap, there are a few low-buck approaches:
1) Only replace rod bolts
2) Replace Pistons and rod bolts
3) Replace Pistons, Rods & bolts
4) (#3+) Replace stock TTY main and head bolts with (ARP) studs
Depending on wear, other parts might need replacing. It gets expensive when your mind is in the state of, 'I'm in there, might as well upgrade 'xx''.
____
Edit: Added more data.
Just be careful if you upgrade later and use cheap parts.
The only time I've seen a crank fail, is if the rod fails. I've only seen stock rods fail. Aftermarket I-beam rods should work fine, H-rods are lighter. Stock rod bolts do fail.
Stock pistons are 'hypereutectic', which I believe means over 14% silicon in order to reduce thermal expansion and increases brittleness. Forged pistons such as Mahle and others which uses 4032 Alloy are 'eutectic', which means they contain 12% silicon, similar to stock alloy. OEM replacement pistons are also cast thinner, and have a thin top ring down space to reduce hydrocarbon emissions. Most forged pistons are made of 2618 alloy which contain less than 0.25% silicon and which is much more durable, and are better designed than OEM replacement pistons, and have all or most surfaces machined. I learned this the hard way...
1) Only replace rod bolts
2) Replace Pistons and rod bolts
3) Replace Pistons, Rods & bolts
4) (#3+) Replace stock TTY main and head bolts with (ARP) studs
Depending on wear, other parts might need replacing. It gets expensive when your mind is in the state of, 'I'm in there, might as well upgrade 'xx''.
____
Edit: Added more data.
Just be careful if you upgrade later and use cheap parts.
The only time I've seen a crank fail, is if the rod fails. I've only seen stock rods fail. Aftermarket I-beam rods should work fine, H-rods are lighter. Stock rod bolts do fail.
Stock pistons are 'hypereutectic', which I believe means over 14% silicon in order to reduce thermal expansion and increases brittleness. Forged pistons such as Mahle and others which uses 4032 Alloy are 'eutectic', which means they contain 12% silicon, similar to stock alloy. OEM replacement pistons are also cast thinner, and have a thin top ring down space to reduce hydrocarbon emissions. Most forged pistons are made of 2618 alloy which contain less than 0.25% silicon and which is much more durable, and are better designed than OEM replacement pistons, and have all or most surfaces machined. I learned this the hard way...
Last edited by blu00rdstr; Jul 26, 2007 at 09:47 PM.
Mahle pistons w/ rings, and scat I beam rods. Will cost just over a grand, plus bearings, gaskets, seals and fluid. Reuse the stock crank. Not as strong as H beam rods, but stronger than stockers for a very good price.
