Talk to a guy at my local Comp Cam shops and he tried to steer me clear of the TR reverse split (230/224) and said i should stick w/ a single pattern (he suggest the Comp 228). He said he could possibly hook me up w/ a deal on some heads as soon as he gets a hold of one of his contacts, but we'll see.

 

Reverse split cams really favor stock heads. If your doin aftermarket heads too then I agree on not using the reverse split.

 

If you are ever going to do heads, then I suggest just sucking it up and doing them now, it will save time and money. This way you don't have to fool with buying and changing valve springs, they will be on the new heads and you don't have to do the work twice, also you can go ahead and run a thinner head gasket and/or mill the heads to bump the compression up.

 

I suggest the TSP LS6 head/cam package. You can spend a fortune on AFR heads if you want, but the ported ls6's wont disappoint especially for the price. go with AT LEAST the ls2 chain. I got a double roller for peace of mind. as far as oil pump, go with a new ls6 one. I really wouldnt use a stock ls1 pump just for peace of mind as well.

 

I was right where you are a few weeks ago. I'm doing a LS1 swap and it couldn't be easier with the engine out. I'm already installing a MTI Stealth II cam and Comp springs, but thought about getting heads because it's easier to pull the heads to ensure you don't drop a lifter. These are the added costs I figured to add heads:

Loyd Elliot Stage I heads $1100 +core (cheap but goods heads)
Head gaskets and head bolts $300

As I didn't really had $1500 to spend now I went a different route. I read on LS1HOWTO.COM about a tool from Thunder Racing which can be inserted into the oil galleries behind the lifter to hold them up. You can make this yourself with two 30" peices of 5/16 steel rod with one end debured and rounded. It's cheap and there is no chance you will drop a lifter. Since I don't have to pull the heads, I just installed the cam and springs for now, I'll do the heads maybe this winter.

The only thing doing the heads now will save you is a second tunning and the two or so hours it's gonna take to change valve springs, as the things you remove to change the cam are completely different than what you would remove to change the heads.

If you really have the money, do it now. If not, do it later.

Re'

 

On my first car, I went the cam only route. On my current ride, I did heads/cam, and couldnt be happier.

If you do heads as well, you wont have to worry about how your going to hold the lifters up, you'll just pull them out, and swap the cams. You won't have to mess with the springs on your stock heads, then have an extra set of springs when you DO buy heads, or have to swap them from the stock ones to the new ones if you buy them without springs. Not to mention all the time saved from re-tuning and pulling the car apart to install the parts at different times.

If you indeed have the money to do heads/cam, DO it! You won't be disappointed!

 

How does the Texas Speed 224R cam compare to the TR 224?

I know I want to put a cam in my car, however, I am really thinking about doing heads at the same time.. Might as well..

Anyway - I have always wanted the TR 224/114 LSA cam, however, I'd like to have a semi-lopey cam.. I don't need it to sound like a Nascar ride, but something that is slightly noticeable..

 

The TSP 224R is ground on more aggressive lobes (Comp XE-R) than the TR224. You will be able to hear a slight lope with either of those cams with a cutout, or aggressive sounding exhaust. Quieter mufflers will hide the lope considerably.

 

Cool..

I think I have decided on a set of Patriot heads and their 226 cam..