Lets try this again. That last 6-page thread was nothing but off-topic crap. Please everyone, lets keep this forum a friendly place. If you have something personal to discuss, do it via email.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">GODSPEED (Jeremy) Posted

<img src="http://daxp02.lockeliddell.com/site/470G5X-2.jpg" alt=" - " />

Full Dyno Graph Click Here

2001 Z06
Stock MAF, Stock Intake Manifold, Stock Bottom End
LG G5X-2 LS6 Heads/Hydraulic Cam Package
LG LT Headers, No Cats, LG X-pipe, PTR Catback
Varam Air Intake, ASP Pulley, LG Throttle Body
LG Custom Dyno Tuning; 30# injectors

Our pricing for the G5X-2 heads/cam package is 5995.00 installed. For more information or to schedule an appointment give us a call at 972.272.7753.

LG Motorsports
"Where Money Buys Speed"
972.272.7753</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">-Tony <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

 

Can't wait to see what they make with a ported intake. And oh yeah, the pistons were flycut right? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

Very nice numbers, congrats. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

 

LG I applaud you guys on one bad *** setup..
Cant wait to see your SR setup in a few weeks....

Good luck!!!
JS

 

Congrats to Lou.. Awsome numbers. Can't wait to hear what the car does with a ported manifold and the exhaust dropped.

 

Thats all the info I need in one post. Had it been that clear a few weeks ago, I may have chosen that route instead of the competitors. If there is a lesson to me, it's to call and get the info...a lesson to LG...post it all upfront...then again, LG...your a marketing genius...and a good Head/Cam package builder as well obviously. Keep up the research...see you next year.

 

Very good #'s but also large #'s for a stock bottom end 346. That setup needs a 5-5500 stall and 7200-7300 shift points to optimize. I personaly would want some rods and pistons to keep it safe at those power levels and rpms. What about longevity at that power level/rpm with the stock internals????? Strong #'s for sure.

 

wow...LS1 definately ROCKS <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

 

Very Nice. This Hot Rod should fly down the track. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

Coach

 

These are very impressive results but the flatness of the horsepower curve at the high end raises a question. If the goal is to extract maximum performance from a N/A engine with a stock bottom end, why wouldn’t it be better to arrive at a combination that peaks around 6000 rpm and has declined somewhat by 6800? One wonders how these curves would look extended to 7500 rpm knowing full well that the stock bottom end can’t be expected to remain intact there. My (admittedly inexperienced) intuition tells me that this head/cam combination is ideal for a decidedly non-stock, super-strong bottom end and that someone (perhaps LG) will do still better with a peak at lower revs.

-Gary

 

If you want it to peak sooner.. Order the cam on a tighter lsa..

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">If the goal is to extract maximum performance from a N/A engine with a stock bottom end, why wouldn’t it be better to arrive at a combination that peaks around 6000 rpm and has declined somewhat by 6800?</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I understand the intent of your question, but looking at the dynograph, there is only ~10 RWHP difference between the peak of 463.5 @ 6800 and the ~453-ish RWHP at 6000 RPMs.

That's 97% full power at 6000 RPMs. I fail to see the problem. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

I had no qualms taking my stock bottom end to 6200 RPM's when I just had a cam.

 

I am not saying that there is a problem, I am trying to learn. I am simply observing that this hp curve is so strong at the point where it stops that I would want a set of super rods and higher revs. Any engine is optimized for some narrow rev range. LG’s engine appears to me to be optimized for a rev range that cannot be supported by the stock rods and crank.

-Gary

 

Gary Z- the stock crank is more than adequate for the RPM level that we're looking at here. The rods themselves would appear to be as well, as there are plenty of folks shifting between 6700 and 7000.

On the other hand, the rod bolts are supposed to be the weakest link on the LSx motors and I wouldn't even hesitate to upgrade them if I was planning on spinning the motor past ~6000. Again, there are plenty of folks out there that are running the stock rod bolts and haven't had a problem, but methinks that's some cheap insurance.

 

I knew it would only be a matter of time before heads and cam # reached this level. That is awsome good work.

I have got some work to do <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" /> Nate

 

What is fly cutting the piston and is it necessary to pull the block out to do that?

 

Great numbers, looks like a big cam, but the low end on the *****. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />
Darren

 

Great numbers, looks like a big cam, but the low end on the *****. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />
Darren

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by NearFuture LS1 Owner:
<strong> What is fly cutting the piston and is it necessary to pull the block out to do that? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Fly cutting or notching a piston basically means clearancing the piston for the valves. The best way to do it is with the pistons out of the engine on a milling machine, but there is a handy little tool made by Isky that works with a tap handle and slips within the valve guide for alignment that allows you to do it with the engine still in the car.

<small>[ February 23, 2003, 08:44 PM: Message edited by: XJGPN ]</small>

 

Is there any drawbacks to fly cutting pistons?