View Poll Results: Which one would be the best street/strip car?
Iron 370 with L92 heads and L76 car intake
14
12.84%
Iron 370 with ported 243s and FAST 90/90
9
8.26%
Aluminum 383 with ported 243s and FAST 90/90
86
78.90%
Voters: 109. You may not vote on this poll
370 vs 383
I was under the impression that you had a 6.0 block and your stock motor, and didnt know which way to go. If not go 370!
I know of two alum 5.7 motors (first hand) that are unuseable because something internal broke. You cant bore the alum blocks. Iron blocks can go .060 over to clean up your walls. Just an Idea... it really all boils down to what YOU want.
I know of two alum 5.7 motors (first hand) that are unuseable because something internal broke. You cant bore the alum blocks. Iron blocks can go .060 over to clean up your walls. Just an Idea... it really all boils down to what YOU want.
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From: Ashland, KY
Originally Posted by The Black Mamba
Why not bump it up to the 408 instead of the 370? I would definately do that especially if you plan on buying a shortblock. It would probably only be a small fraction more...
I don't think the L92s are going to suck for power under the curve. Seen any of the LS3 dynos?
The extra cubes won't matter (13 cid) when you shroud the valve. The 4" bore will help more than the 4" stroke.
The extra cubes won't matter (13 cid) when you shroud the valve. The 4" bore will help more than the 4" stroke.
For the thread at hand, Bigger cubes, with a smaller port would make for the better street car. However, if that were the motor I were building, I'd use some AFR 205's and a hogged FAST. I just don't think the L92/L76 would shine on a small cube motor unless you rev the **** out of it, then you've done away with your street scenario.
They've been weighed over and over for years. You'r looking at roughly 80+ lbs. difference. Not very good on the nose of the car.
Originally Posted by crazyfokker
If I hear another person say anything about weight im going to 
I have a bare alum block and a bare lq9 block in the garage right now, the iron block is probablly 40lbs heavier.
I have a bare alum block and a bare lq9 block in the garage right now, the iron block is probablly 40lbs heavier.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: BFE
If I hear another person say anything about weight im going to
I have a bare alum block and a bare lq9 block in the garage right now, the iron block is probablly 40lbs heavier.
I have a bare alum block and a bare lq9 block in the garage right now, the iron block is probablly 40lbs heavier.
From having a 383, go 383! The extra torque is awesome on the street. Plus the weight it shaved off the front end of my truck is noticable, can't imagine an iron block in a car. I would have done the same thing if I would have done it over. Everybody kept telling me go 408, because of the cost of a stroker. The 383 is plenty, I'm fixing to put a ported 90mm FAST/NW combo on it. So my top-end should pull like crazy! When I get me a Trans Am, first thing I'm doing is putting my 383 from truck in it, along with a bigger cam. Bigger cam because of the 1000+lb weight difference.
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From: Ashland, KY
Originally Posted by Beast96Z
For the thread at hand, Bigger cubes, with a smaller port would make for the better street car. However, if that were the motor I were building, I'd use some AFR 205's and a hogged FAST. I just don't think the L92/L76 would shine on a small cube motor unless you rev the **** out of it, then you've done away with your street scenario.
Originally Posted by N4cer
Why does revving do away with a street scenario? A car can rev on the street just as easily as on the track. That's what gears are for.
But FWIW..My 383 revs OK
Originally Posted by N4cer
Why does revving do away with a street scenario? A car can rev on the street just as easily as on the track. That's what gears are for.
"RPM stands for Ruins Peoples' Motors"
Lower RPM is easier on parts and usually cheaper too. Think about the cost difference between a 6500RPM engine and a 7500RPM engine. You wanna rev to 7500 on a hydraulic lifter? On stud mount rockers? I sure as hell wouldn't. Besides the cam optimized for higher RPM operation sucks for a street car.
Originally Posted by JakeFusion™
I don't think the L92s are going to suck for power under the curve. Seen any of the LS3 dynos?
The extra cubes won't matter (13 cid) when you shroud the valve. The 4" bore will help more than the 4" stroke.
The extra cubes won't matter (13 cid) when you shroud the valve. The 4" bore will help more than the 4" stroke.
370 or step up to a 408 if your budget allows it. And yes I did read the thread. If a 383 is almost the same price as a 408 you'd be *edit* to not go for more cubes. I know someone with a 408 with a 300 shot of nitrous that is still streetable (850+ RWHP). It is a beast 
but good luck on choice 
No brainer. 383! The 370 can win on the track but everything has to be perfect. One thing to remeber, most of the numbers that you see from 370s have been setup for the track, the same cannot be said for the 383 numbers that have been posted. Don't let that skew your thinking......
As a head porter I have always favored the 4.00" bore engines, but we have seen more TFS 215's on 5.7's make 490+ RWHP than what we have seen TFS 225's make 490+ RWHP on LS2's The TFS 215 may have a better chamber shape though.
If you could get the 243's ported killer then the 383 would make more power everywhere.
If you could get the 243's ported killer then the 383 would make more power everywhere.
