newonad

What would you change/ do different on your engine build-up? I am currently looking for a 98 Vette M6 with enough miles to justify a rebuild and have a chance to start from scratch. Looking for <11.5 1/4 mi (mid-life crisis hot rod )

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

Buy lower price, high value heads and put the savings into bigger cubes.

BTW, a good set of heads &amp; cam (and basic bolt-ons) will easily get you to 11.5. Just make sure the rear is up to the task, especially with a 6-speed.

newonad

Is there a problem with the rear diff on these cars? Under the impression that they are fairly stout stock.

This site has been the best stumble-on for the LS1 that I've found. Like most other sites, there is no real agreement on what head/cam package is the best value per dollar but that is what makes the reasearch so interesting. Hoping for more suggestions!

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

Depends on where you want to dump the clutch from or if you are going with an A4. I've seen the high HP vettes break at the track, but that would be a better question to ask Corvette forum or drivetrain.

ToplessTexan

The left output shaft in the diff is the weak link. I've seen stock motored cars break them on a good hook. There are a few hardened shafts available. Not nearly so much of an issue with an A4.

CHRISPY

Knowing what I know now I would have gone even bigger on the cam and even more compression

However I am COMPLETELY THRILLED with my current setup

11.1's at almost 124mph 3514 pounds and emissions LEGAL!

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I'd get a A4 not an M6, and with DR's and stage II heads and a 226//114/+2 I would rock the house.

Humanoid

iTrader: (3)

I would have bought a LS1 Z28 with a few miles on it and not a new SS. I then would have used the money I saved at MTI

LOnSLO

iTrader: (15)

Yep, I would have bought a used Z, then used the saved money for a 436 with a 300 shot.

jmX

Only thing I'd do differently if I had the chance would be to start with LS6 head castings instead of LS1 castings, to eek that last few rwhp out of the combo.

Visceral

iTrader: (1)

I wont even start with what I'd do differently. THeres alot.

But If I was to start now, I'd just deliver the car to MTI and have them build what Ive spent years getting to now. I wouldnt buy any motor parts that 20 peaple already had beaten on, and I wouldnt build anything that 20 people hadnt figured out worked great. Im very greatful to those ppl that try new things and find new ways to make power... but Im tired of being one.

With the money Ive spent, I could have had a MTI 427 wiht stage 3 heads put in my car and have been driving it. Instead Im waiting for them to ship me an all bore 387 so that I can install it and get the car running reliably for the first time in 4 years.

chris

horist

I woulda bought a regular Trans Am instead of a WS6 TA (still woulda bought new though), then bought a WS6 hood and lower airbox and some nicer wheels. Woulda done the heads/cam much sooner too

Other than that not much I'd change... though I just recently did my top end rebuild so I'm sure that once I get used to the feel of the car now i'll want to go bigger

JoeyGC5

iTrader: (24)

Carteck X package with hardened shafts. Or Let Jayson at MTI have it. Always seems like the 97-98 cars are able to squeeze just a little bit more power out because of the fuel system. Seems heads cam cars are just as fast as, if not faster at the track than most forced induction cars, go figure. The Patriot/Texas Speed Perf package looks damn good as well.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

Good advice. I went too conservative in the beginning and incurred costs to upgrade.

bigSS

Just my opinion...

But I wouldn't want to put all my money it to it all at once getting like a 427ci with a 300shot. Now granted that would be badass... but what fun is it just throwing all your money ar your car during a weeks time, then be done? I love doing stuff in a slower fashion, because I like to see what each part does for me (and because of financial reasons ).

Not motor related, but that ONLY thing I would've done differently so far is get a 9inch or an 8.8 instead of a 12bolt.

12 bolts

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

LS6 heads with LIGHT valves would be great!
Purchasing a used LS1/A4 w/33k seemed to be a mistake at first (compared to a brandy new SS). But, upon teardown, it appeared that just about EVERYTHING would be changed/modified. In anticipation of the wad I'll be dumping into this set-up, I'm wondering if a ready made motor from our sponsors might have been in order.
Then, of course, there's the pride factor!!(I'm gonna do this if it kills me!)

10.5 Dave

iTrader: (5)

Would have never went to Strope Speed Shop.Would have skipped the iron block and D-1 for the ARE 422 solid roller and huge direct port shot that I'm doing now.Could have saved mucho dinaro.Oh well live and learn.

robertbartsch

Hey ARE422:
I'm considering an iron-block stroker now. Why would you not do this again?

I'm thinking it the least expensive why to make big cubes - w/ 4.125 crank and new stock LQ4 block

robertbartsch

Hey ARE422:
I'm considering an iron-block stroker now. Why would you not do this again?

I'm thinking it is the least expensive why to make big cubes - w/ 4.125 crank and new stock LQ4 block

robertbartsch

Hey ARE422:
I'm considering an iron-block stroker now. Why would you not do this again?

I'm thinking it is the least expensive way to make big cubes - w/ 4.125 crank and new stock LQ4 block