The kit comes with two backing spacers so the oil pump can clear the gears and chain. I was reading some write ups on installs and some guys don't use the spacers. Are these things requires when installing the timing chain? Thanks for any info you all might have. - P at

 

You have to use them or the chain wil grind right through the oil pump.

 

Definately use the shims that come with the chain.

I have the Rollmaster Double chain, I can't see how the double gears and the chain would clear the oil pump if you didn't use the shims. Also I don't think the oil pump would sit correctly on the crank sprocket with out the shims.

Good luck.

Lee

 

what they said

 

Are there any issues with the timing cover not fitting right after the install of this timing gear and chain? Thanks for the replies guys and the "good luck" as this is going to be my first cam swap...I'm waiting on headers and y-pipe now. - Pat

 

exactly!!!!!!

 

Yeh, use the spacers, you need to drop the oil pan to get the oil pump off and the bottom sprocket on ...you know that right?

You are the second PATMAN on the board; the first one provides expert advice on synthetic oil based on his discussions with an oil analytical who has 20 years experience,.......

 

How are you guys getting the pickup tube to fit correctly after using the shims??? Luckily I had the motor out when I put mine in. I had to elongate the hole on the pickup tube where it is bolted down on the main cap stud. Other wise it would not line up corectly with out trying to force it. I wonder if this is why so many people are having oil pressure issues and problems with their "O" rings.

 

My pickup tube lined right up. That little bolt that holds the tube to the oil pump in a major PITA though. I originally did my double roller chain with the engine in the car. If you are going to do it this way take a strand of wire, like 20 guage, and tie it around the little bolt. If you drop the bolt while trying to tighten it just yank it out of the oil pan with the wire. Once you get it threaded down pull on the wire and it should slip loose. I recently put a new short block in the car and built the engine on a stand, it was a dream to bolt the pickup tube on with the engine upside down on the stand.

Pat-man there is plenty of room inside the front engine cover after you install the shims. The shims aren't that thick.

The only thing you need to be cautious of is the pick up tuve o-ring. becareful not to damage it or it will cause your oil pressure to run lower than normal. I would almost suggest replacing it, I got a new one from the dealer for like $2.50, I know that is such a rip off. You can also goto like Autozone and match the o-ring up for like 25 cents. I work next to a dealer and I wanted to be 100% sure so I paid the $2.50.

The install of the double roller is easier than it sounds. I would say it should only take a novice person 1-2 hours.

You are going to need a claw puller to get the crank balance pulley off and the crank sprocket off too, you can get one at the local auto store. I always replace gaskets and the crank bolt when ever I remove this stuff. It only costs a few bucks, but I'm a gasket replacing freak.

If you want to get everything ahead of time, here's a small list:
1. Claw puller (depends on your pulley, if its stock use this one to get the pulley off and the crank sprocket. If you have an ASP pulley you will need the crows foot style pully puller as well as the claw puller)
2. New Balance Bolt
3. Water Pump gaskets
4. Oil Pickup Tube O-Ring
5. Front Cover gasket

Here's how to do the install, incase you have never done it or maybe someone else might use this information..

1. Start to drain the radiator (use a clean bucket and re-use the coolant later)
2. Take your air lid & maf off
3. Take your belts off
4. Diconnect the radiator hoses
5. Disconnect the fan shroud wiring
6. I would pull the radiator and fan, leaving the AC condensor there to give you a little room. Not necessary
7. Remove the Crank Pulley
8. Remove the water pump
9. Try to dry up the coolant from the heads, try not to let it leak/drip into the oil pan when you remove the front cover
10. Remove the from timing cover
11. Remove the bolts on the CAM sprocket
12. Take the CAM sprocket off. Set the old timing chain to the side
13. Disconnect the oil pickup tube. You might want to take out a few of the oil pan bolts to lower the oil pan in the front some, it makes it easier to reach that stupid pickup tube bolt.
14. Remove the oil pump
15. Remove the crank sprocket. I used the old balancer bolt and a claw puller to grab the crank sprocket and pull it off.
16. Install the new crank sprocket, double check the "dot" on the new sprocket, it marks the notch for 0 degree timing. There is a fin on the crank that you should line that up with, for +-0 timing, ie dot to dot. To get the sprocket back on the helms books recommends a special tool to push it on the crank. I just put the crank pulley on and used the old pulley bolt to tighten it down. I pushed the sprocket on all the way using the pulley.
17. Slip the double chain around the crank sprocket
18. Re-install the oil pump, put some black anti-oil rtv gasket on the shims and install them with the pump. I would replace the o-ring at this time and install the pickup tube and tighten up the oil pan bolts if you loosened them.
19. Hook the double chain around the CAM sprocket and bolt it to the CAM. Before you do this, align the 2 sprockets dot to dot, hold the cam sprocket and turn the crank as needed till they line up, crank dot on top cam dot on the bottom. Then you may have to turn the cam to line up the peg with the peg hole on the sprocket and bolt it to the cam.
20. Re-install the front cover with new cover gasket
21. Re-install the water pump and new gaskets.
22. Re-install the crank pulley and new bolt, torque to specs.
23. Re-install the radiator if you removed it
24. Re-install your MAF and Air lid etc.
25. refill the radiator with the coolant you saved or new coolant if you want.

Always check the torque on your bolts.

Good luck dude.

Lee

 

when I did my rollermaster, just took a little force to get the pickup tube over enough, I put the pickup tube on the pump before bolting the pump down, with the shims out.

Then when the bolt was on the pickup tube and it was secure i used a long screw driver for leverage, pull the oil pump back a little, slid the spacers in and slid bolts through

500 miles since doing it and i still have awesome oil pressure

 

1. put the new bottom sprocket in place using a hammer and the old sprocket to drive it home; put the oil pump on the crank but DO NOT start the bolts....

2. put the new o-ring on the oil pick up tube (place a rag between the pump and oil pan to catch the bolt if you drop it.)

3. push the tube into the pump
4. start the bolt and tighten it
5. place the shims in between the block and pump and start the bolts
6. titghten the bolts to spec...