ASA cam swap trouble
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From: Clearwater, FL
Alright so I finally see what is going on. I read the rollmaster instructions and from the pictures it has I understood it that the dot that lines up with the key on the crank was the one that lined up with the cam. I was a little sketchy on the 180 thing but I was at a loss of why this happened. I knew I followed the instructions to a T. Looking back I should have looked at the factory sprocket and saw that the crank key did not line up with the dot. But I felt with the pictures in the rollmaster kit I knew how the rollmaster needed to be set up and it did not mean it was the same as a factory set. As I understood it the second dot that is on the gear portion would be advancing the timing 2 degree's. It makes sense now but the roll master will not be going back on my car. I know it was my fault but I do not like the way it makes the oil pump sit so I will swap it out for an LS2 set. Thank you all for your input.
Glad to read you finally understand this. Had you lined up the DOTs before you removed your old timing set you might have noticed that the key on the crank was between 1 o'clock and 2 o'clock when the DOT on the crank sprocket is at 12 o'clock. From the photo you can see(It's been a while since I installed a Rollmaster) that there are two DOTs on the Rollmaster sprocket. One DOT at the keyway on the Rollmaster sprocket to show you where the key on the crank should be when the other DOT on the Rollmaster sproket is at 12 o'clock to establish the DOT to DOT relationship. The Rollmaster may be overkill in some applications and it's a lot of extra work to install just to get the oil pan flange bolt out and back in, but once you've got it installed you don't ever worry about your timing set again. Now if you want to get yourself really confused try using the Rollmaster to add or remove timing. The explaination on how to get that right makes this look like pre-school. The instructions that come with the Rollmaster are a little difficult for some people to understand because they are written in an obscure language called Australian.
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TECH Apprentice
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From: Clearwater, FL
I think I would have still had moved the crank to how I believed it to be right in the rollmaster diagram if I had set the old T set dot to dot. I figured that was what I needed to follow but setting the crank where it needed to be before removal would have maybe made me think why is the other dot lining up. I will put the roll master in but I will do it when I can have the pan removed and can adjust the pick up to fit a little better. I have the oil pump on with everything right but I can see that the o ring is not really centered.
What do you mean when you say the "O" ring isn't centered? As long as the "O" ring is new and covered with oil all you have to do is get the pickup tube fully home in the input port of the pump until the flange is in place and then screw the bolt in. Don't overtorque that bolt. Get it tight, but don't go crazy tightening it. One of the DOTs on the Rollmaster identifies the correct keyway for straight up timing. The other DOT to the left of the one near the keyway is the DOT that has to be at 12 o'clock when the cam DOT is at 6 o'clock. If you get the key on the crank near 1 o'clock and put the sprocket on with the keyway that has the DOT on the key your're OK. You may have to turn the crank a "tiny" amount to get the 12 o'clock DOT exactly at 12 o'clock if 1 o'clock isn't exactly where the crank should be.
Last edited by eallanboggs; Nov 30, 2007 at 09:37 PM.
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From: Clearwater, FL
I cheated when installing the oil pump. I pulled the cover and took the gears out. IMO this is the only way to do it. I slid the pump over the crank then set the pick up tube in the hole with a new oiled up blue o ring. I then put the bolt in and started the threads. After that I placed 2 .002 feeler guages 180 apart in between the crank sprocket and the oil pump. I then tightened the bolts for the oil pump. Then I moved on to tightening the pick up bolt with a gear wrench just snug. When I looked into the oil pump I could see that the o ring was visible in the hole but I could only see it closest to me and the pick up tube was right on the aluminum across from it. When the car ran for 2 seconds the oil pressure came up to about 38~40. I imagine that it should had jumped right to 60 but I know 2 seconds may have not been long enough to build up the pressure. I just want to make sure when I put it back together this time that I do not have to take it back apart right away.
The heads are off and every single intake valve kissed a piston. The two valves that were significantly bent had some decent marks in the pistons but I have not found any cracks yet. I thought I did and I about barfed all over the motor. I stepped away and then wiped the carbon a little more to see that it was a number stamped in the piston.
The heads are off and every single intake valve kissed a piston. The two valves that were significantly bent had some decent marks in the pistons but I have not found any cracks yet. I thought I did and I about barfed all over the motor. I stepped away and then wiped the carbon a little more to see that it was a number stamped in the piston.
You pressure is OK at idle. It should climb a little as the RPMs come up. You method is the only way I've found to get the pickup tube started into the pump input port when installing a double chain. I've been using that method for years. Now just get your DOTs lined up.
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