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need help degreeing/timing cam!!!

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Old Dec 19, 2007 | 01:55 PM
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Default need help degreeing/timing cam!!!

i have a 2000 ss camaro slp. ls1 motor. the timing chain snapped in my car which has a aftermarket Crane cam, but i do not have the cam card! i need to set the timing back in the car but i bought a double roller set that allows me to degree the cam. i just need to know if i put it at top dead center (0) or if i should advance or retard it??? any help appreciated!
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Old Dec 19, 2007 | 02:22 PM
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just put it dot to dot just like it was before
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Old Dec 19, 2007 | 02:25 PM
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Good luck with the double roller. You put the number one piston at TDC and put your crank gear on the 0* keyway. Then you line it up dot to dot. If you need to know how to degree the cam with a dial indicator, there is a sticky on that.

Make sure your double roller doesn't rub on the oil pump. I had quite a bit of trouble with it and just got a single Cloyes hex a just set.
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Old Dec 19, 2007 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by kylem1987
i have a 2000 ss camaro slp. ls1 motor. the timing chain snapped in my car which has a aftermarket Crane cam, but i do not have the cam card! i need to set the timing back in the car but i bought a double roller set that allows me to degree the cam. i just need to know if i put it at top dead center (0) or if i should advance or retard it??? any help appreciated!
put it on straight up. what's crane cam u using?
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 12:18 AM
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the kit comes with a spacer for the oil pump apparenlty to keep it from rubbing, but who knows. i have no idea what kind of cam it has. it can't be to big though. its enough to make it idle a little rough. its putting out about 426 at the wheels, which is what the guy said. with slp long tube headers, mass air, ported heads and the cam. i just replaced the stock valves with slightly bigger 2.02/1.57 valves. also had bowl work done under the valves so i'll see how that does. but thanks for the info, i was really stressing over if it needed to be degreed or not!
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by kylem1987
the kit comes with a spacer for the oil pump apparenlty to keep it from rubbing, but who knows. i have no idea what kind of cam it has. it can't be to big though. its enough to make it idle a little rough. its putting out about 426 at the wheels, which is what the guy said. with slp long tube headers, mass air, ported heads and the cam. i just replaced the stock valves with slightly bigger 2.02/1.57 valves. also had bowl work done under the valves so i'll see how that does. but thanks for the info, i was really stressing over if it needed to be degreed or not!
use the spacers. they are used to space the oil pump housing away from double row tming sets, so that the chain doesn't rub the beck of the oil pump housing. i would guess your cams atleast a 228/232 if it's making that kind of power.
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 05:08 PM
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Since the timing chain broke, I assume the heads are/will be off. Why not just use the degree kit and set it correctly. If you need the specs on the cam, there is usually some marking on the front of the cam.
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 06:30 PM
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yeah i have no idea what kind of cam it has in it.. but i'll just set it dot to dot.. i'm going to end up getting it tuned anyway along with gm tech 2 so that should help correct anything thats off.
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by kylem1987
yeah i have no idea what kind of cam it has in it.. but i'll just set it dot to dot.. i'm going to end up getting it tuned anyway along with gm tech 2 so that should help correct anything thats off.
hey kyle, pull the cam retainer plate off the front of the engine, that holds the cam in, right down all the numbers that are ingraved in the front of the cam, were the cam gear bolts on to, and let me know. I will tell u everything u want to know about it. U will see numbers like HR-228-367, and 2S-12, and 5A for example.
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 08:02 AM
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alright buddy i will. i plan on swapping out the timing chain today since its the 1st decent day in awhile. i'm guessing its just acouple bolts that hold the plate in. i'll get back to you later today with those numbers!
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by kylem1987
alright buddy i will. i plan on swapping out the timing chain today since its the 1st decent day in awhile. i'm guessing its just acouple bolts that hold the plate in. i'll get back to you later today with those numbers!
it's very easy to do kyle, no worries. shoot me a pm with numbers and i give you the info on the cam.
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 02:35 PM
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well i took the front flate off and i didnt see any numbers at all on the cam so i'm not sure what the think of that?? i know it has a aftermarket cam in it, and the guy i bought it off of said it had a crane cam. thats wierd.
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by kylem1987
well i took the front flate off and i didnt see any numbers at all on the cam so i'm not sure what the think of that?? i know it has a aftermarket cam in it, and the guy i bought it off of said it had a crane cam. thats wierd.
i'm skeptical that it's a crane cam myself now, after what you just told me.
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 03:39 PM
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yeah i dunno. i tried calling the guy that actually built the car awhile ago but never answered. maybe there were numbers on there but i just didnt see them? but its hard to miss that many numbers. oh well i'm not to worried about it. if i pull the top plate off the motor to look down into the lifter galley will i be able to see any numbers then? i just wanted to check the cam and see how well its holding up, if its bad i'll just get a new one. any recomendations?? bigger valves, ported heads, slp package (long tube headers and air intake, mass air) but stock ls1 intake. want something that'll really make it idle rough but still be able to pass emissions
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by kylem1987
yeah i dunno. i tried calling the guy that actually built the car awhile ago but never answered. maybe there were numbers on there but i just didnt see them? but its hard to miss that many numbers. oh well i'm not to worried about it. if i pull the top plate off the motor to look down into the lifter galley will i be able to see any numbers then? i just wanted to check the cam and see how well its holding up, if its bad i'll just get a new one. any recomendations?? bigger valves, ported heads, slp package (long tube headers and air intake, mass air) but stock ls1 intake. want something that'll really make it idle rough but still be able to pass emissions
don't waste your time pulling the valley cover, you not gonna see anything anyways. Just put it together striaght up dot/dot and run it.
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