stefan256

iTrader: (1)

please delete

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

Just upgrading your fuel pump and injectors on an A4 to properly support 400 SAE corrected RWHP to the rear wheels will cost you that much if a performance shop does the work for you. The best rule I have found is be patient and only upgrade/mod your car when you have 'extra' money to do so. Have a plan and build it with parts about 100 RWHP more than your goal. In other words, for instance, don't upgrade to your exhaust to mid-length headers to support 400 HP unless you plan on lowering your car and stopping at 400 RWHP ... which most folks know ain't gonna' happen ... most reach their goal and want more. Hope this helps. IMHO, I would say to choose a car's build off someone from this board whose sig shows the level of power you want to achieve. Then just ask questions and people will help you., then, adjust to your own personal beliefs. My next motor build will be a 5-phased backward planning method. In the long run, it will save your thousands of dollars, literally.

stefan256

iTrader: (1)

im sorry to mislead you but money is not the main objective i just want to keep it reasonable and still have enough power to keep up with almost anything in the parking lot (surrounded by alot of slightly modded cobras)

darrensls1

The 85mm MAF was a waste of money and the smooth bellows does next to nothing. So basically you're starting with a lid, cai and catback. Not a bad start but here is the bad news. The only way $1500 gets you 375 rwhp from where you are now is if you buy new spark plugs, wires and a 150 N20 kit. And even then you'll only have power when the bottle is full and the stock 4L60E will become a ticking time bomb waiting to explode.

You need a stall and LT headers. The stock stall and stock exhaust manifolds are going to restrict any decent cam like the ones you mentioned. Here are some basic price guidlines:

3400-3800 stall $500-$700
Transmission cooler $75
Converter installation $300

So you're around a grand for a converter installed.

Pacesetter LT headers & ORY (great budget buy) $500
Install $300

So now you're $1800 in but you have full exhaust and a decent size stall. Add $75 for a ported TB and $300 for a set of drag radials and you can run mid to low 12's all day long for $2175 total invested.

Now you're ready for the cam. You can get a cam kit from TSP for $600. Add about $800 for install and $400 more for the dyno tune. So the cam runs approx $1800 total.

Now you may run good for awhile but behind a stall and 350+ rwhp the stock 4L60E won't last forever. It may last two years but it may only last two weeks. Just plan on a stage 2/level 2 4L60E from a sponsor somewhere down the line. That's another $1700 and figure another $300 for install. So the tranny will run you $2,000 total.

So at the end of the day you spent $2200 on bolt ons, $1800 on the cam and $2,000 on the transmission. That's $6,000 with nothing touched on the suspension. Modding is NOT cheap

But finish bolt ons first. It makes a lot more sense then trying to add a cam to a car that can't handle the power, doesn't have a free flowing exhaust and is handicapped by the stock stall speed.

Good luck.

stefan256

iTrader: (1)

hey man thanks for all the info with a stall and lts will i be looking at any tranny probs in near future?

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

You should be OK with your tranny and 10-bolt up to about 350RWHP/360RWTQ as long as you stay away from drag radials, in my experience ... there have been many a 10-bolt broken with less, but, some people get lucky and have them live forever with more power than above. You'll be fine with just lomg tubes and a stall ... A4's are pretty forgiving on 10 bolt rears.

darrensls1

That's hard to say but there are two things you can do. One is buy the biggest transmission cooler you can find. I have a B&M 24,000 GV cooler but I think some of the sponsors here sell a 30,000 one.

Two is invest in a shift kit. A lot of people will delete torque management and raise line preasure in order to tighten up shifts after a stall. While effective, this does help shorten the life of the transmission. A shift kit however will tighten up the shifts without the extra stress on the transmission.

The transgo shift kit runs about $120 and you can add another $100 for install. LT headers, 3600 stall, tranny cooler, shift kit and drag radials will get you around the same times I have in my sig. I don't even have a shift kit and my stock 4L60E lasted 2 years and at least 150 quarter mile passes.

Good luck.