Comp Cam w/o Tuning/
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Comp Cam w/o Tuning/ Ok, so I will be installing my cam next Saturday.
Here are the specs:
Comp Cam XER 224/224 .581 114LSA
Comp 918 Springs
Comp Tit Retainers
Chromoly Pushrods
I cannot afford to buy the LS1edit right away. It will be probably a couple of weeks before I can buy the program to tune with. How well will this work as a daily driver without the tuning? Is there anything I should install or buy at the same time with this cam as a must? i.e. LS6 Oil Pump, Timing chain, etc etc
Here are the specs:
Comp Cam XER 224/224 .581 114LSA
Comp 918 Springs
Comp Tit Retainers
Chromoly Pushrods
I cannot afford to buy the LS1edit right away. It will be probably a couple of weeks before I can buy the program to tune with. How well will this work as a daily driver without the tuning? Is there anything I should install or buy at the same time with this cam as a must? i.e. LS6 Oil Pump, Timing chain, etc etc
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,043
Likes: 0
From: Texas and Qatar
Re: Comp Cam w/o Tuning/ You can prob get by with that cam and no tuning, but to be optimized tuning would be recommended. Drill the TB blade hold out a little to help it idle. I'd do a new timing chain and new oil pump on a '99.
Re: Comp Cam w/o Tuning/ "Comp Tit Retainers" 
Sounds personal!
What Joseph said plus: I would buy a couple extra valve keepers, most people drop a few (I didn't though.) You might also have a couple extra 8mm sockets around, most people break a couple getting the rocker bolts out. Get one of those black ones that are made for an impact wrench. Make sure you have a large breaker bar on hand with a four-foot pipe for turning the pulley bolt. You might also want to have a gasket set. When you get the pulley bolt out, use a lathe or drill press to center drill it for your puller. When you take the oil pickup tube off, have a rag stuffed in the oil pan; a lot of people drop the bolt in the pan.
Sounds personal! What Joseph said plus: I would buy a couple extra valve keepers, most people drop a few (I didn't though.) You might also have a couple extra 8mm sockets around, most people break a couple getting the rocker bolts out. Get one of those black ones that are made for an impact wrench. Make sure you have a large breaker bar on hand with a four-foot pipe for turning the pulley bolt. You might also want to have a gasket set. When you get the pulley bolt out, use a lathe or drill press to center drill it for your puller. When you take the oil pickup tube off, have a rag stuffed in the oil pan; a lot of people drop the bolt in the pan.
Re: Comp Cam w/o Tuning/ Once you tighten the crank bolt to the low torque value (37ft-lb,) you take the torque wrench off and put on your bigest, badest, breaker bar with cheater handle and try to turn that ***** 140 degrees. When you take the torque wrench off, draw a line on the bolt with a "sharpie" pen so you will be able to judge the 140*. Make sure the trans is in 4th gear, the parking brake set, and you have the wheels blocked, because the car will try to lurch forward. Also make sure you pre-torque the pulley with the old bolt so the new one won't be prematurely stretched. All of this is very important, as a number of people have slung their pulleys off lately.
Also remember to torque the rear oil pan bolts to only half the torque of the others or you will end up snapping them off and being very pissed!
Also remember to torque the rear oil pan bolts to only half the torque of the others or you will end up snapping them off and being very pissed!
Re: Comp Cam w/o Tuning/ When you take the 10 MM bolt off of the oil pickup tube, tie a string to your 10 MM wrench in case you drop it in the oil pan.....or you can learn the hard way, like I did.... :{
