Supertech full Synthetic oil change today
Has anyone done an oil analyses for two changes? Then there is no way to know how good it is. I think anyone that says that there engine does not make noise with the oil so it must be OK does not understand what oil does in the engine. Mobile 1 is still living off it old reputation. It is to thin and not as good as it use to be. I would never use it. The oil filter has as much to do with as the oil. I would never use a Fram filter. Any one use synthetic oil and a cheep filter? It will be in bypass very fast and the oil will not matter. I use K and N filters and German Castrol on the Trans Am because it gets good oil analyses. Any one have good data on the new stuff? I think I will use it in the DD but not an LSX engine.
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 698
Likes: 0
From: Chandler, Az
Has anyone done an oil analyses for two changes? Then there is no way to know how good it is. I think anyone that says that there engine does not make noise with the oil so it must be OK does not understand what oil does in the engine. Mobile 1 is still living off it old reputation. It is to thin and not as good as it use to be. I would never use it. The oil filter has as much to do with as the oil. I would never use a Fram filter. Any one use synthetic oil and a cheep filter? It will be in bypass very fast and the oil will not matter. I use K and N filters and German Castrol on the Trans Am because it gets good oil analyses. Any one have good data on the new stuff? I think I will use it in the DD but not an LSX engine.
I've been on this site ever since I bought my car, and I have yet to figure out what the **** german castrol is!!! What does the bottle look like? That may be a dumb *** question, so forgive me for sounding like a newb. I've been using castrol syntec and wix filters, and knock on wood, no trouble yet.
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 698
Likes: 0
From: Chandler, Az
I've been on this site ever since I bought my car, and I have yet to figure out what the **** german castrol is!!! What does the bottle look like? That may be a dumb *** question, so forgive me for sounding like a newb. I've been using castrol syntec and wix filters, and knock on wood, no trouble yet.
It can only be bought at Autozone. It has "European Formula" on the front and "Made in germany" on the back
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Five Reasons the Camaro Was the Most Pivotal Player in the Pony Car Wars 2.0
Brett Foote Ahhh, so I'm not a dumbass, I've just never seen it cause I don't shop at Auto Zone!!! My O'Reiley's friend gets me his employee discount, so I'm kinda loyal there! But if it is that much better than the regular syntec, I might have to "get in the Zone", lol.
why is the european formula considered superior?
I've read lots of oil stuff on the chevelle boards because there is a problem with modern oil leading to cam failures due to lack of zinc and other minerals, seems RP does well in the tests they do while Mobile 1 does not. Valvoline racing stuff is top of the list as well IIRC. Others just dump in GM EOS assembly lube with the oil to help.
This should mean little to nothing for roller cams and newer engines, but it can't hurt much either I suppose...
I get RP for less than $.25 a quart more than Mobile 1 so there hasn't been any reason to not use it.
I've read lots of oil stuff on the chevelle boards because there is a problem with modern oil leading to cam failures due to lack of zinc and other minerals, seems RP does well in the tests they do while Mobile 1 does not. Valvoline racing stuff is top of the list as well IIRC. Others just dump in GM EOS assembly lube with the oil to help.
This should mean little to nothing for roller cams and newer engines, but it can't hurt much either I suppose...
I get RP for less than $.25 a quart more than Mobile 1 so there hasn't been any reason to not use it.
I have been using M1 0-40 and 10-40 for 153,000 + miles in my LS1..I change the oil at 5,000 mile intervals...the car uses a half quart every 5,000 miles and it sees the red line every day of its life...when ever the heads have been off the engine it looks like new inside...it makes 450 RWHP ..if M1 is over rated I sure can't complane about it perfromance over the last 5 years in this engine..
I have been using M1 0-40 and 10-40 for 153,000 + miles in my LS1..I change the oil at 5,000 mile intervals...the car uses a half quart every 5,000 miles and it sees the red line every day of its life...when ever the heads have been off the engine it looks like new inside...it makes 450 RWHP ..if M1 is over rated I sure can't complane about it perfromance over the last 5 years in this engine..
FWIW, I did try German Castrol at one point, but I found that I burned through it faster than M1. My personal experience; your results may vary.
Yes I liked the 0-40 M1 and ran it for a long time but it has become hard to find in the 5 gallon containers (wally world) and the 10-40 high mileage is now readily available (again at wally world) and I definately qualify as high miles with over 153,000 on the clock now..no complaints with M1 from me.
Walmart has too much power over products, they could change vendors at anytime. If changing oil is to expensive for ya then run it longer. Run the synthetic stuff 7-10k miles. Most of the dummy oil lights come on at around 6-8k miles anyway(on the vehicles I have).
I hate to say it but I usually run regular castrol oil and change my oil every 3000-3200 miles. I put the gc in last oil change to see if it would quite my piston slap on cold starts. It actually seems worse with the GC.
I used to run M1 in the vette but it seemed to get sop dark so fast. I switched to RP and noticed that the oil temps dropped about 10 degrees and the oil still looks clean at 3k. I also ran the M1 in the trans am for a while and it would burn it. Like a quart in 1500. I now also use RP in it and I can go 3k before it's a quart low. The luck I had with M1 wasn't very good.
why is the european formula considered superior?
I've read lots of oil stuff on the chevelle boards because there is a problem with modern oil leading to cam failures due to lack of zinc and other minerals, seems RP does well in the tests they do while Mobile 1 does not. Valvoline racing stuff is top of the list as well IIRC. Others just dump in GM EOS assembly lube with the oil to help.
This should mean little to nothing for roller cams and newer engines, but it can't hurt much either I suppose...
I get RP for less than $.25 a quart more than Mobile 1 so there hasn't been any reason to not use it.
I've read lots of oil stuff on the chevelle boards because there is a problem with modern oil leading to cam failures due to lack of zinc and other minerals, seems RP does well in the tests they do while Mobile 1 does not. Valvoline racing stuff is top of the list as well IIRC. Others just dump in GM EOS assembly lube with the oil to help.
This should mean little to nothing for roller cams and newer engines, but it can't hurt much either I suppose...
I get RP for less than $.25 a quart more than Mobile 1 so there hasn't been any reason to not use it.
penz plat is on sale at Advance auto if ya got one $3.98 a quart... now they have a super syn to.. so what does this make the regular syn everyone said was better then the M1