Is there a writeup on swapping out the timing sets out there anywhere??? Im going to be putting a double row timing chain set in along with the new cam. Never seen any writeups on it other than just swapping the chain itself out.

 

You have to unbolt the oil pan by either taking it all the way off or trying to do it on the fly. Meaning not taking off the crossmember. The only bad thing about that is if you drop the bolt that holds your oil pump inside of the pan you will have a hell of a time getting it out! I did not drop the pan all the way b/c I did not want to take off the crossmemeber. I had a magnet just incase I lost the bolt with the help.( thanks to Inspector 12!)

 

Since you are already going to be doing a cam swap, this won't be too hard. After you've busted into the engine, and have the cam gear unbolted from the cam, assuming you already have the oil pan dropped and the oil pump off...

You can use the 3 arm pulley puller to pull the crank sprocket off the crank snout. Have a buddy hold the arms tight around the sprocket while you wrench on the puller to break it free. Once it "breaks" free you'll be able to just pull it off.

To put the new one on, make sure you have the "key" on the crank snout line up with the dot on the sprocket. Then press it on with the old cam sprocket and old crank bolt to seat it properly.

If you don't know about it yet, and I don't know how you couldn't ... Use jmX's
cam swap write-up to help you out.

 

if you are going with a double chain with spacer shims, replace the oil pickup tube bolt BEFORE you bolt the pump to the engine...

also use a new blue o-ring...

 

Alright... so it presses on with the old cam sprocket and the old crank bolt???? So what... slide the crank sprocket on, then put the cam sprocket inbetween the crank bolt and crank sprocket?

 

you put the new double sprocket on the crank snout (MAKE SURE YOU LINE IT UP CORRECT) and then you put the old one on behind the double, then you put the bolt in the crank and tighten...the old sprocket will push the new one into place.

 

I will be doing this soon. I plan to put a clean rag on the front part of the oil pan under the oil pump for peace of mind. Make sure that the 2 gears are lined up BEFORE you take off the cam and crank gears. Put the new gears on exactly the way they came off and follow the JMX install. That sould get u through it.

 

I assume there is a snout on the crank sprocket, and thats what the oil pump sits on?

Dont worry... everything will get lined up before it gets pulled off. Otherwise things could get ugly.

 

[quote]
I assume there is a snout on the crank sprocket, and thats what the oil pump sits on?

Correct, use some RTV on the shims before you tighten the oil pump.

 

What kind of RTV???

I really need to get that timing chain set here so I can see what the hell we are talking about. So RTV up the shims (to space out the oil pump) before tightening...

 

Yes

 

DEFINITELY put a few papertowels or clean rags in the opening on the front of the oil pan when working on your cam, sprockets or oil pump. You will shoot yourself if you drop something in there and have to pull the motor to get it out.

Guys, you only have to seal the (1) shim on the output side of the pump (the shim with 3 holes in it). I would not recommend RTV because it can clog an oil passage if a piece comes loose. Use (a little) Permetex 3H Aviation sealer on both sides of the shim and you'll be fine.

 

If you use the old crank sprocket to drvie the new one home turn the old sprocket around BACKWARDS. Put a small piece of wood up against it and hit it with a small ball peen. Put a bunch of shop rags down in the space between the bottom of the block and the top front edge of the oil pan. Rags are cheap. Time is not.

 

Ok... so dont press the sproket on... beat it on with a ball peen and a little wood???

Where can you get the 3H Aviation sealer???

 

I recommend goin with eallenboggs' method. We just did this today and it worked perfectly. unfortunately we weren't smart enough to bolt the pickup tube to the oil pump before we put the pump back on and it was a major PITA to get the tube up in there. Also make ABSOLUTELY sure you do not pinch the new blue o-ring. If you pinch it your oil pressure will never build up properly. Just take your time with it and you shouldn't have a problem.

 

I got it all in there. The oil pump is a pain in the butt. Got nice pressure on startup.

Slid the new o ring on the pickup tube, and it slid right into the pump without a problem. That bolt is DELICATE and a pain to put back in... no way my fingers were gonna get in there to thread it. I stuffed a bunch of rags underneath in the oil pan to hold it up in there. Then I got the wrench in there and slow turned until it started threading... and tightened it up. Slid the shims in for the oil pump in afterwards. Got a nice 60psi on startup... which rather surprised me, and also made me worry. Normally its a hair above 40. It then dropped down to normal levels.

The custom grind idles rather well on the Hot Cam programming.

Just curious though... i believe I got the shim in correctly... but that high oil pressure on startup is making me worry... What would happen if you installed the shim upside down? I had everything lined up and layed out... then someone fugged it all up for me before putting it on, so I lined it up with the front of the pump and slid it back in there.