the area of the stock crank pulley that slides over the crank (from just under the head of the crank bolt, to the end that almost touch's the lower timing chain gear) is 1.4", and the ATI pulley hub is 1.5". i put the ATI on the cank w/ the timing chain cover off to check for clearance w/ the Rollmaster double roller's lower timing chain gear. if i was to pull the ATI on till the end of the crank touch's the bottom of the head of the bolt (or try to) it wouldnt make it before it bottomed out on the timing chain gear. now, i set both units on a flat surface, and the belt ribs line up fine. do i need to machine the hub of the crank pulley, or the lower timing chain gear? or neither? it looks as if i just pull it on till it bottoms on the timing chain gear, all the belts will line up fine, but i'm worried i'll put undo pressure on the lower gear, and possible crack it w/ 240 ft.lbs. anyone noticed this problem before??? please help!!!!!

 

I have an ATI damper and yes the surface where the crank bolt tightens against is further out then the stock damper. The stock damper is almost even and the ATI was about .100-.150 further out then the crank snout. It wont hurt anything, the stock damper appears to be even but is supposed to be out a bit - I forget the exact number.

As far as the double roller chain, make sure it doesnt hit the spaced out oil pump before it bottoms on the crank gear like the asp pulley - I used a single jwiss chain so I dont know if the ATI hub will work or not without machining it.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Glenn98ZM6:
<strong> w/ the Rollmaster double roller's lower timing chain gear. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">If you have the DR chain you have to mill the collar on the harmonic balancer.

 

update:::
the rollmaster double lower gear has a reseced area on the side facing the crank. its outer surface (end that faces the back of the bolt head) falls in the same place as the stocker. so no difference there to worry about.
the oil pump gear teeth do stick out off the end of the lower timing gear by a 32nd of an inch or so. i was worried that the hub would try to seat against the oil pump gear before it botomed out on the lower timing gear. took apart an old oil pump and removed the drive gear. it slides over the ATI hub w/ no problem. so all is good.

 

Just throw it on a lathe and turn it down some. That is what I had to do to mine to get it to work with the double roller.

 

Fenris, How many thou did you take off? Just that amount thats supplied to shim the pump?

 

The timing gear is sandwiched between the crank and the balancer- it HAS to be so that it is held in place. Man you aren't going to crack any steel gear with the torque of the crank bolt!!

 

No machining is required when using the ATI balancer and the Rollmaster double roller cahin set.

 

that was my conclusion 5 posts ago. thanks.