Ok, installed TR224 .563 @114 cam, pushrods, and springs. Although the car feels a little stronger it is no where enar what many describe as a definate SOTP difference bigtime etc... Before cam, and pulley I would run 12.77 @ 106mph NA, and 11.4x @119 150shot. With cam and pulley, i best (only twice)12.43 @108, normally running 12.5x @108, and on 150shot 11.55 (or slower)@ 118. These runs are averaged out from diff. in weather and 60' etc...

WTF???

I do have a noticeable valvetrain noise (sewing machine) and wonder if maybe i set the rockers way outta wack..torqued to 22lbs, spun engine by hand a few turns and rechecked.

On dyno I picked up 15hp peak, and about 20tq., at a 12.8:1, and 30*. Had timing at 34.4* no knock but no diff in power output.

Although I did not see the crank sprocket dot (where is that little bastard at, behind the pump?) I lined the dot down, and marked the crank, and have done several older engines this way, never had a problem. I doubt i am off a tooth, it just would run like it does, or maybe not. Dyno operator said he cantseehow it could be offf either FWIW.

I would really like to get an extra 25 horse out of this thing before i pull it out and beat myself over the head with the cam. I would think 40horse from a 224 cam to be so far outta range, even with the auto.

Sorry for being so long, but didnt want ot leave anything out.

I have heard everythign from, bad 853 heads,LS1intake to needing a split or rev split cam.

Charlie.

 

If you put the cam DOT at 6 oclock the crank DOT at that time SHOULD be at 12 oclock(DOT over DOT). You have to look BEHIND the oil pump to see it.

 

Yeah, i understand that part, although I didbnt look to see it, I marked the crank and the block in relationship to cam dot at the 6. Dont think it would run as good as it does if it were off. I am thinking maybe redo the rocker arm, loosen, on TDC tighten down XX amount of turns then see?

 

I have a 2000 ss convertable. flp lt full ex., tci 2800 stall,asp pulley and with a 100hp. nos dry kit I went 11.68 at 115mph with a 1.60 60' on 17"bfgdr's. now with a 175 2 stage nx wet kit (100 hp 1st and 75 hp 2nd) with a 9" rear with 3.50 gear bmr lca brackets and a bmr adjustable torque arm I went 11.23 at 117 mph and hurt a valve #6 cyl. did heads and cam car seemed alot faster and I got a wrist pin knock in # six cyl. before I could get to the track. I think that you are maxed out for not doing the heads with that cam and a good set of stage 1 heads you should see 375 rwhp easy with tuning. you may need a little tuning now to get the numbers up now.

 

what is the weather difference between ur new run and previous best? that could account for a less than expected gain in MPH... ur up 20 hp at least with a 2mph increase in trap speed.

 

rich- i was thinking the same thing, heads, intake and the likes, considering some of non casting 241 guys really have crappy #'s.

T/A Medic, contrary, I ran better before cam with a much worse DA and I have averaged out the numbers. To help eliminate the weather conditons, and beeter yet on Dyno thats what the correction factor is for, not that dyno #'s mean **** to me, but when I go hella slower with a cam and nitrous having the BETTER weather i did last night cant explain that one.

 

Are you usign the stock timing chain? if so the dot is huge, and on my roll master it isnt excally small either, i would check and make sure you have the cam lined up dot to dot. b/c if its not even by one tooth then you have it advanced or retarted and that might not be good.

 

yep stock timing chain. Anyone know how far off the cam timing would be off one tooth? I think it would be wayyyy to much to run like it is, and again, I am really certain the markings I made. thats why i am more leaning toward the rocker arms need to be redone, or the heads and intake just limit mine a little more than most.

 

How much preload did you get when you torqued the rockers? Also, you won't get 40 hp until you do some PCM tuning: raise the rev limiter and advance the timing.

 

Ok, hi everyone.

With the whole dot to dot thing, along with CAT3.

We did 3 cars like this, and all three started up without a problem after the install.

Also I have a question about tightening the rockers, we all did the 22lbs.

Did we not tighten them enough?

Also did you guys use lock-tite on them, I'm not sure if the rockers loosened up a little, after the cam install ran the car after the 300 miles breakin.

These are runs before cam, pully and ported S2.(20030625)
2.078 8.500 86.92 13.056 108.73
1.967 8.305 87.09 12.838 109.26
1.850 7.976 88.04 12.474 110.00
1.821 7.935 87.91 12.431 110.01
1.929 8.261 86.92 12.791 109.14
1.841 7.966 88.26 12.463 110.08

Right After cam, ASP, S2: (20020709)
2.307 8.675 88.55 13.109 111.99
2.254 8.615 88.61 13.048 111.42
2.172 8.406 89.29 12.809 112.42
2.101 8.429 90.00 12.830 112.30
1.981 8.059 90.32 12.439 112.73
2.213 8.500 89.64 12.906 112.51
2.010 8.213 89.11 12.622 112.16

These are runs now, no change. (20030723)
2.149 8.730 88.44 13.215 110.28
2.038 8.428 89.28 12.878 111.11
1.938 7.99 90.87 12.384 111.95
2.445 9.118 88.52 13.588 110.56
2.232 8.541 88.74 13.005 110.57
1.899 7.958 90.74 12.386 111.39
1.925 7.964 89.61 12.388 111.42
1.950 8.290 89.10 12.764 110.28
1.999 8.105 89.06 12.554 110.81

I still need tuning, but?

 

well look at your 60' times... a lot higher now than before and you picked up 4 tenths over the non cam 1.92 60' as compared to after cam 1.92 along with MPH.. and YERS you do need to tune hte car.... it may need timing or more fuel. a dyno and a wide band will tell you that... and as far as rockers are concerned re check them definitly but with the LS1 setup aslong as the rocker is set to spec the "tight enough" question is not your issue. and another question would be what did you expect the power to be after these mods?

 

one other thing.... Why do you have a 160 thermostat? and who told everyone that the 160 was the way to go? i have never dynoed an LS1 that made more power by running it colder than 190-195.. anyone who has run enough of these cars should know the warmer the LS1 is (to a point) the more power it makes... on corvettes we routinly saw 5-15hp differences from 160-180 temps.

you may want to check this out on your next dyno visit also.. but get the car tuned by a competent tuner then ask questions if you have not seen the power you were looking for.

 

I have to 160 Tstat just because, it also help with the FTRA.

The car still runs in the 190's.

I guess expected around 114 mph? Is that too much

Thanks
Andrew

 

Cal and Chicago:
Did raise RevLimiter to 6790, and pulled my dyno to 6600. Pulled strong all the way thru the run, leveled off at about 6200 or 6300, not looking at graph sorry. My AFR was from 11.3 on run 1, to 12.8afr on last run. timing was at 34.4* and no KR, but was rcommended to take a down a bit, so left it at 30.4* and seen no difference, on the dyno from lowering it. Tuning is by predator, thats why I couldnt get a 13.1:1afr. But, I the lastest runs were with a new tune, which should be 13.1:1 @ 30.4*, the timing was there as I could watch it at the track during the runs.
Preloading, that was basically my concern. I did read about preloading the rockers, we put PR's in and torqued the rockers to 22ftlbs. Only after ward have I seen about set it to TDC and 0 lash the rockers and something about 1 1/2 - 2 turns, but am not exactly sure. I think may need to redo this process, whats the steps or a link to setup? Although all these engines seem to have their own personality, mine seems way more sewing machine than any of my friends with cams.
I expected to go from 106mph to at least a solid 110mph, and et wise 12.7 to 12.2x-12.3 NA and around 124-126 on the 150 shot.
Another quesiton about all this, I see a little knock at the track, and my octane table modified as to not pull hella lot of spark, but only at track, not on dyno. I read Team ZR-1 post about upgrading fuel injectors, and I currently have the stock POS 26#, which autotap should at 83% @ 5016rpms. Knowing the injectors are maxed out, but it is still running 12.8 without leanign out topside, might the injectors still be holding back? As well as the cause for knock?

TIA guys, I am listening and appreciate your help.

 

On the spray what should I expect to run, so I don't get let down

 

ttt