If anyone is interested I rent out a cam swap tool package with all the little goodies to make it easier.

 

Well i got everything tore down to the crank pully, and it all went smoothly. Then the damn crank pully was a bitch i had one of those three arm pullers, and the damn thing kept slipping off. Well finally after about an hour believe it or not, it came off. And the last turn of the puller broke the puller, so that was lucky. Everything else came off fine. I went and got some dowl rods they worked great the cam came out easy the new one went in easy. Then came the stupid timing. Well MOST cranks have a 'dot' to line up with the cam gear, this one doesnt. It has a 0 2 4 6 8 and the repeats itself. So i called a few places and got it figured out "i hope" Then when i went to torque down the three bolts on the cam gear one of the mother ******* broke inside the cam...luckuly enough was sticking out for me to grip it with the pliers. So i went to the local hardware store and got a new bolt and it all threaded in fine. I put the timing cover back on, and the pushrods and rockers on and torqued down. Than came the stupid harmonic balancer. I finished tonight beating the thing with a rubber mallet. i know it took forever but with all things considered, phone ringing, girlfriend bitching, stuff breaking, girlfriend bitching, eating, and finally the girlfriend bitching, it is pretty simple besides the crank pully.

Tomoro morning i plan to go get another crank bolt that is an inch longer. Than it may be an hour, or possibly two and the bitch will be fired up.

Oh yea i came up with a bearing, i dono where it came from? I double checked everything and cant find where it goes. I hope its nothing important.

 

The Chrysler pulley from auto zone will take that pulley off like butter and the tool that you can buy in the fab section will put it back on just as easy. Just food for thought for the next time, glad your almost done. God I hate those broken bolts! My crank bolt broke on mine about 2 inches deep in the crank feel lucky it was so easy to get out. Good luck and you will love the car when it is done.

 

Now you see why people spend extra money to get the 2 piece timing cover

 

2 piece timing cover def makes stuff a lot easier

 

lmfao

 

prolly a cam bearing, this is why u pull the cam out slow and keep it level otherwise you could pull the cam bearings out of place.

 

There is more to a cam swap than holding the lifters up.


The kit contains the Crane dual spring tool, the JPR rods, the air fitting/hose to pressurize the cylinder, comp cam pushrod length checker, and the pulley install tool from hawk618. I will also include an after-marker pulley puller for the same price if you need it. Its the 3 screw kind not a jaw type. $40 rental fee for two weeks.

 

well...the good news is the cam is in, the car runs. The bad news is, the car is harder than hell to start, and will not idle...Comp thinks the computer needs tuned. Other sourses think the timing is off.

The bearing came up before the cam came out.

Well...any suggestions?

 

Not sure of the specs of your cam but you've just changed valve and timing events by swapping cams ... you need a tune for sure

 

Congrats, let us now how she runs after a tune.

 

You just need a dyno tune now and you'll be rollin

 

how sure are you all that i just need a tune? Is there any chance of timing being off. The cam is a 234/236 112lsa .574 .578 i believe. It was already dyno tuned for a 217/226 <those are the only specs i know for it> To tune it i will have to send the computer off and get a tune like that. There is NO place around here to do it. I just want to be 100% that it just needs tuned, and the timing is not off.

On the crank i could NOT find a dot, so i called a local performance shop and they said the key way on the crank served as the dot so thats what i lined up is that correct?

 

I just walked out in the garage to check, my motor is sitting on the stand, and my crank dot is about 3 or 4 teeth away from key way.

 

here you go you might want to punch who ever told you htat in th FACE. Take a look.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...gear+crank+dot

 

Yikes! You didnt say that before.. did you? You could be way off

 

Well the bad thing is, i dont have a stock crank, it is a forged eagle crank. I turned the crank round and round and round and found no dot just numbers...

 

Ok today i will pull the bitch apart agian and have a few questions....if all i am going to do is set the timing, do i need to unbolt the rockers and take out the pushrods and all, or can i leave all that **** assembled? Second on the crank there are the 'degreeing' marks. 8-6-4-2-0-2-4-6-8 should i line the cam gear dot up on 0? or should i advance or retard it or what???

 

OK i attached two pics that i have found to show you guys whats going on. The first is a pic from the sticky 'cam guide' from ls1tech. that pic looks EXACTLY like what i am looking at in my engine. The second is from ls1howto, from the write up i was following to put my cam in. Do you guys see where i got confused?

So now that you know what i am looking at what do i point straight up on the crank?

I already know the cam gear points straight down.

Thanks!

 

Who did you get the cam from, they will be able to tell you if you should advance or retard it. Looks like your at +4 right now. 0 would be where I would have started.