Crank pully installation
Unless of course you WANT to ruin the threads on the crank. Make the tool in the hyperlinked thread. This relieves the pressure off of the crank threads. https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...657&highlight=
Use this tool to pull the pulley onto the crank snout. Once its on there good, THEN use the old crank bolt and torque it to 240 lbs. Be sure to make sure the crank snout is recessed to spec. (2.40mm-4.40mm) or there abouts
Remove the old bolt and take your new bolt and torque it to 37 lbs. Once you achive that, turn the bolt an additional 140 degrees to stretch it and thats it. Be sure to lube the threads on all the bolts and the tools.
That is the GM proecdure
Borrow a 250lb torque wrench or rent one from parts store.
Unless of course you WANT to ruin the threads on the crank. Make the tool in the hyperlinked thread. This relieves the pressure off of the crank threads. https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...657&highlight=
Use this tool to pull the pulley onto the crank snout. Once its on there good, THEN use the old crank bolt and torque it to 240 lbs. Be sure to make sure the crank snout is recessed to spec. (2.40mm-4.40mm) or there abouts
Remove the old bolt and take your new bolt and torque it to 37 lbs. Once you achive that, turn the bolt an additional 140 degrees to stretch it and thats it. Be sure to lube the threads on all the bolts and the tools.
That is the GM proecdure
Borrow a 250lb torque wrench or rent one from parts store.
If you are using the stock torque to yield bolt, don't worry about the 240-ish ft-lbs of torque on the old bolt. People did that to make sure the pulley was seated properly, but if you have the proper tool to do this, it isn't necessary. You'll ideally want a wrench that keeps track of the amount you've rotated the bolt...not a torque wrench.



