What is the procedure for installation of these studs? How do you torque the stud into the head and then what is the otrque procedure for the nuts once the head is on. I know that the stock TTY bolt require an assload of torque, but what do these require? Are there any special tools other than a torque wrench needed for install?
I plan on doing this when I get a set of heads to avoid buying a set of stock bolts everytime the heads come off.
Another question-
I don't know how much the stock head bolts are, but I'm pretty sure it's significant. Why would you wnat to go back with stock TTY bolts instead of coughing up $200 for the reusable ARP studs?

 

nooen knows? I guess I need to call ARP and post what they tell me for future information.

 

Pick up some good moly assembly lube, and coat the threads of the stud (top and bottom). Thread the studs into the block and barely snug them down. Then put the nuts on the heads, and tighten them down in sequence to 25lb. ft. Then tighten down the big bolts in sequence to 60lb. ft. Then tighten down the big bolts in sequence to 75lb. ft. Then go back and tighten the little bolts to 25lb. ft. again.

 

Studs should be torqued into the block to 5 ft. lbs

 

The procedure is on the ARP site and it comes in the box with the studs.

 

These are completely re-useable and are better than stock bolts correct?

 

They are completely reusable. ARP says to torque the nuts down to 65lbs for aluminum blocks, due to the expansion rate of it...not 70 (not that it is much of a difference).

I would go with what ARP says.....also the instructions are in the box and it comes with moly lube. (I just installed mine)

 

Are these better than the stock TTY bolts? Which is less likly to blow a head gasket?

 

You made me open my box and read the instructions. I typed them in to remember what it says.

ARP 12-pt head stud instructions

INSTALLATION METHOD FOR HEAD STUD KITS
190,000 Psi 7/16-inch Diameter

[1] To ensure proper thread engagement and accurate torque readings, clean and re-tap ALL threads in the block. Re-tap only if necessary.
[2] Clean and inspect all hardware prior to installation. Look for obvious defects or shipping damages, plus proper fit, length, and dimension.
[3] a. If cylinder head studs protrude into water jacket, lubricate the block threads of the studs with ARP THREAD SEALER.
b. If cylinder head studs protrude into blind hole, lubricate the threads, nuts & washers with ARP MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT or 30wt motor oil.
c. Screw studs into the block "HAND TIGHT ONLY".
Note: LOCTITE MAY BE USED IF A PERMANENT MOUNTING OF THE STUDS IS PREFERED. THE FASTENERS, HOWEVER, MUST BE TORQUED PRIOR TO THE LOCTITE SETTING UP.
[4] Install cylinder heads and check for binding or misalignment.
[5] ARP recommends using the ARP MOLY LUBRICANT or at the very least, a good quality Moly Lubricant as opposed to motor oil. This is due to higher friction on the studs as well as inconsistencies in the clamping force of the fasteners when motor oil (or low quality lubricant) is used.
PRELOAD (TORQUE) RECOMMENDATIONS:
(A) Torque values are based on 75% of the fasteners yield strength. Use the manufacturers torque sequence but do not use the engine manufacturers torque specs. Torque the nuts to 70 ft lbs for ARP MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT (or ARP THREAD SEALER) or torque to 85 ft lbs with 30wt motor oil.
(B) Due to the expansion rate of ALUMINUM, it is recommended that the torque should be 64 ft lbs with ARP MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT (or ARP THREAD SEALER).

Note: Do not use any other Moly Lube. Use only ARP Moly Lube or head gasket failure can result.

 

Two ways they are better than the standard TTY bolts:

1) They are easier to work with when you just have ot torque them down to 65 ft/lb. The regular head bolts take *alot* more than that.

2) After 5 or 6 head swaps, the threads on my block started to get course and "tired". I threw in some ARP studs and could have done many many more changes, if the block had otherwise lasted that long.

3) You dont have to clean out the bolt holes EVERY time you pull the heads off. (thats a long process to do right).

Disadvantages: ARP moly Lube is sorta hard to come by for each assembly process.

And although many have asked, the heads do fit over the studs in the engine bay.

chris

 

Thanks guys.

 

The GM dealer in my town re-uses the old factory head bolts....he claims this has worked flawlessly in the hundreds of warranty jobs that have gone through his shop in the past few years....he laughed at me when I ordered new head bolts for my H/C swap...he said bolts are bolts...all bolts stretch and dont worry...

Weird advice - hey?

 

Decent studs will have a nice smooth rolled thread on the nut end so for a given torque setting you will have a higher clamp load. I install them into the block hand tight, doesn't need to be any more. I believe that most of the tension occurs at the nut end with a stud instead of in the block when using a bolt. Don't ask me where I read that but it was in an engineering tech book and it stuck with me. Engineers use studs, accountants want bolts.

The dealer re-using tty bolts has been very lucky thus far. The bolts are torqued right up to the point of maximum stretch and aren't expected to return to their pre-installed length. TTY bolts are disposable and may be torqued to the max to get max clamping without buying expensive studs. In other words they work once and are cheapo. Now the dealer, hmmmmm.

 

UK-Mike:
If engineers want (re-usable) studs and accountant's want (disposable) bolts, what do mechanics what?

 

I'm glad I don't write his Liability insurance! Idiot.




joel(Bink)

 

[quote]
UK-Mike:
If engineers want (re-usable) studs and accountant's want (disposable) bolts, what do mechanics what? [/quote

Hi, Robert, depends on the mechanic and customers budget I suppose. I like studs, especially in aluminium. It's not because they are re-usable but because they are superior and reusable. US stuff is a lot cheaper then UK stuff so you have it good. Personally I can't see the any point using the stock bolts unless they are really cheap. If you want extra performance it makes sense to clamp the heads down.

 

Studs allow for better perch on threads(HAND TIGHT)in block, this gives ultimate thread surface area and max strength.My stock bolts came out so shitty there was no way i was putting another stock TTY bolt back in there.Aluminum block is worth way too much to tear up threads each time heads come off.Key to head gasket seal is compress gaskets, than loosen and relax gaskets before final torquing and thermal cycling. This settles studs mating to block and insures max stretch from studs with min. gasket relaxing after running.Blown gaskets do not ever have to happen on LS1's.