What breaks at 600 rwhp
What breaks at 600 rwhp I have always heard that the limit for the stock short block is 600 rwhp. My question is what gives at 600 rwhp? I'm more or less doing a budget rebuild because of oil pressure problems and I can't afford to go all forged. However if its the rods that fail then I could probably do that or the pistons or whatever it is that breaks. I want to be about 600 rwhp so it will likely be on a 200 shot as well. If somebody could help me out so I could price my parts I sure would appreciate it.
One of the weakest points in our LS1 blocks is the rod BOLTS. That happened to me bout a year ago. If that goes, your rod can start to play on the crankshaft then the pistons can slap the heads. You can see the possible damage.
Yeah I was going to with some ARP rod bolts. I'll was looking at a forged piston kit that Scoggin Dickey sells that comes with Pistons, main and rod bearings, and ARP rod bolts. But I would hate to buy that and then somebody say its the rods that break at 600 hp. You know what I mean.
This is it:
http://www.sdparts.com/catalog/lsgen...gradeKits.aspx
This is it:
http://www.sdparts.com/catalog/lsgen...gradeKits.aspx
Tony @ Outlaw Motorsports (sponsor) was spraying a 300 on top of his heads/cam car into the mid 9's. He was running stock crank and rods, forged pistons. I heard though that his rods were starting to bend after a season of abuse.
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That's more than I got to spend on parts. The machine work will cost me $570 So I'm looking to be around 11-1300 on parts. If I had the money I would be sporting a 402 around which is what I wanted to do instead of staying with the stock displacement but it just so happens that all of this is going down at a bad time so I'm on a budget.
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Brett Foote Just a thought but why dont you sell your nitrous kit and save little by little til you have money to forge it all. WELL worth your money. Also, 1800 is a figure considering you buy the parts from a company. Guys on here are always selling pistons or rods for about 20-30% less than what they paid. Look around.
Ring lands will break, rods and bearings seems to go south under extereme duress on these cars. A 200 shot on stock internals could put you into one of my 408's maybe as early as end of summer. I ran a 100 shot and cracked a ringland with very few n2o hits. Its a gamble. Get the tune wrong or detonation from say some crappy gas and your going to be into the 408 quicker than you think.
BUT there are some who never have issue. They get the tune right, they have an engine that wasn't built on friday or monday and get good use without having to re-build. Mine broke at 84k miles after hammering it with a tr224 for a season and a half and a few nitrous hits on the dyno.
Putting it simply the factory engine wasnt built for n2o. It will handle it to a certain extent, but lets face it when you start thrashing your on borrowed time.
Keep your oil changed, let it warm up before you drive it, keep it from running to hot.. bout all you can do
BUT there are some who never have issue. They get the tune right, they have an engine that wasn't built on friday or monday and get good use without having to re-build. Mine broke at 84k miles after hammering it with a tr224 for a season and a half and a few nitrous hits on the dyno.
Putting it simply the factory engine wasnt built for n2o. It will handle it to a certain extent, but lets face it when you start thrashing your on borrowed time.
Keep your oil changed, let it warm up before you drive it, keep it from running to hot.. bout all you can do
Yeah I was going to with some ARP rod bolts. I'll was looking at a forged piston kit that Scoggin Dickey sells that comes with Pistons, main and rod bearings, and ARP rod bolts. But I would hate to buy that and then somebody say its the rods that break at 600 hp. You know what I mean.
This is it:
http://www.sdparts.com/catalog/lsgen...gradeKits.aspx
This is it:
http://www.sdparts.com/catalog/lsgen...gradeKits.aspx
Everything is forged now.
^ The 10 bolt is stronger than people give it credit for and it depends on how you treat it as to when it will break. It will be replaced eventually but buying a 9 inch right now would be a case of putting the carrage before the horse.
Tell that to all the nearly stock people with damaged or destroyed 10bolts, lol.
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Ok. Just make sure you bring the trailor with you when you go to the track. my 10 bolt broke w/ ony bolt ons.
I'm doing about the same build as you at the moment. Got all my diamond pistons, eagle rods, clevite main and cam bearings, TSP rings etc and I'll end up with a Zex N20 kit I'm pretty sure. I'll replace the rear as soon as I have the money. Don't forget to replace the torque arm and if you have a 6 speed then a good clutch, flywheel and hydraulics are always a wise decision. 
I'm sure its going to break eventually. But I won't be spraying it off the line or doing 5 or even 4k drops so it will be ok for a while. If it ain't then I guess I will buy a new one.
I wish you were right and the 10 bolt was decent, but it's not...I broke mine STOCK on a 3-4 shift. People running 10s on them are pretty few and far between and are autos with alot of weight out of them.