Advice needed on cam selection
definitely do a stall before the cam. but if i were you honestly, with the mileage on your car, i would actually seriously consider using your money on building a strong tranny along with a converter before a cam.
Beings we are kind of on the topic of converters now and I couldn't get this question answered in the auto section, I'll try it here. The SS4000 doesn't seem to be a lockup converter like the PT4000 according to Yank's site. However, I'll see in dyno threads people talking about the SS4000 being locked on the dyno. How is that possible if they don't have the lockup feature like the factory converter? I'd like to buy the SS4000 for it's higher stall torque ratio and cheaper price, but all I can see is the converter slipping at cruising speeds of ~2000 rpm on the highway and creating lots of heat.
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
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From: BFE
Beings we are kind of on the topic of converters now and I couldn't get this question answered in the auto section, I'll try it here. The SS4000 doesn't seem to be a lockup converter like the PT4000 according to Yank's site. However, I'll see in dyno threads people talking about the SS4000 being locked on the dyno. How is that possible if they don't have the lockup feature like the factory converter? I'd like to buy the SS4000 for it's higher stall torque ratio and cheaper price, but all I can see is the converter slipping at cruising speeds of ~2000 rpm on the highway and creating lots of heat.
Listen to what we are telling you. We have ALL been there, done that with these cars. We know what works, as well as what makes these cars tick.
Get a TQ converter. Vig3200/YankSS35600 with your basically stock car. The mileage means nothing if you are running a stock cam.. You are not going to hurt the tranny with a stall only.
Get it tuned as well as a cooler. Then call it a day.
Get a TQ converter. Vig3200/YankSS35600 with your basically stock car. The mileage means nothing if you are running a stock cam.. You are not going to hurt the tranny with a stall only.
Get it tuned as well as a cooler. Then call it a day.
Beings we are kind of on the topic of converters now and I couldn't get this question answered in the auto section, I'll try it here. The SS4000 doesn't seem to be a lockup converter like the PT4000 according to Yank's site. However, I'll see in dyno threads people talking about the SS4000 being locked on the dyno. How is that possible if they don't have the lockup feature like the factory converter? I'd like to buy the SS4000 for it's higher stall torque ratio and cheaper price, but all I can see is the converter slipping at cruising speeds of ~2000 rpm on the highway and creating lots of heat.
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From: Fredericksburg, VA
Converter: $500-$700 +shipping
Install: $200-$300
Cooler: $80-$200 +shipping
Tune: $250-$400
DRs: $300-400 +shipping
Total: $1330-$2000 +shipping
I'm sorry guys but i'm only 19 and i'm paying for this car/insurance/gas/parts working at a sporting goods store. I'd really not like to deplete my savings and/or max out my credit card. You guys keep telling me how many tenths a converter is good for but i'm not building a track car, i want a street car. Most of my racing will be done from a roll. So i believe that a cam would be good for a few mph at the track, which is what i want on the street right?
I'm not arguing with you guys, in fact i agree with you. A converter would be the best thing to do. However its not the cheapest. I also understand that i cant go nearly as big as i wanted too on the cam without a stall. I accept that.
So having said that, where do i go from here, what specs should i get on the cam, or should i just settle for some higher ratio roller rockers?
Install: $200-$300
Cooler: $80-$200 +shipping
Tune: $250-$400
DRs: $300-400 +shipping
Total: $1330-$2000 +shipping
I'm sorry guys but i'm only 19 and i'm paying for this car/insurance/gas/parts working at a sporting goods store. I'd really not like to deplete my savings and/or max out my credit card. You guys keep telling me how many tenths a converter is good for but i'm not building a track car, i want a street car. Most of my racing will be done from a roll. So i believe that a cam would be good for a few mph at the track, which is what i want on the street right?
I'm not arguing with you guys, in fact i agree with you. A converter would be the best thing to do. However its not the cheapest. I also understand that i cant go nearly as big as i wanted too on the cam without a stall. I accept that.
So having said that, where do i go from here, what specs should i get on the cam, or should i just settle for some higher ratio roller rockers?
If you are not doing a stall then follow Pred-Z's advice.
Keep in mind a stall will make you faster from a roll too because the shift extension will keep you in the power band
My advice is to take your time and do one thing at a time and do it right. It will be cheaper in the long run than doing things twice. Get the stall first and then save up for the LS6 IM, cam, UD etc..... You will be much happier in the long run IMHO
Keep in mind a stall will make you faster from a roll too because the shift extension will keep you in the power band
My advice is to take your time and do one thing at a time and do it right. It will be cheaper in the long run than doing things twice. Get the stall first and then save up for the LS6 IM, cam, UD etc..... You will be much happier in the long run IMHO
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if your building the car roll racing dont go bigger than the TR220 on a 112!!!! but even a converter helping the launching it will help on the shifts i wouldnt get anything smaller than a 3500 to get the shift extension up from 2200 to around 1500. You will need a tune with a cam or converter, you will need some good tires on the street anyways, coolers are about $70 shipped, i dont know you local rate of install but do it yourself and theres you cam!!!!! Lots of info on here how to do it and all that. A converter is the very first mod ANYONE should do
Converter: $500-$700 +shipping
Install: $200-$300
Cooler: $80-$200 +shipping
Tune: $250-$400
DRs: $300-400 +shipping
Total: $1330-$2000 +shipping
I'm sorry guys but i'm only 19 and i'm paying for this car/insurance/gas/parts working at a sporting goods store. I'd really not like to deplete my savings and/or max out my credit card. You guys keep telling me how many tenths a converter is good for but i'm not building a track car, i want a street car. Most of my racing will be done from a roll. So i believe that a cam would be good for a few mph at the track, which is what i want on the street right?
I'm not arguing with you guys, in fact i agree with you. A converter would be the best thing to do. However its not the cheapest. I also understand that i cant go nearly as big as i wanted too on the cam without a stall. I accept that.
So having said that, where do i go from here, what specs should i get on the cam, or should i just settle for some higher ratio roller rockers?
Install: $200-$300
Cooler: $80-$200 +shipping
Tune: $250-$400
DRs: $300-400 +shipping
Total: $1330-$2000 +shipping
I'm sorry guys but i'm only 19 and i'm paying for this car/insurance/gas/parts working at a sporting goods store. I'd really not like to deplete my savings and/or max out my credit card. You guys keep telling me how many tenths a converter is good for but i'm not building a track car, i want a street car. Most of my racing will be done from a roll. So i believe that a cam would be good for a few mph at the track, which is what i want on the street right?
I'm not arguing with you guys, in fact i agree with you. A converter would be the best thing to do. However its not the cheapest. I also understand that i cant go nearly as big as i wanted too on the cam without a stall. I accept that.
So having said that, where do i go from here, what specs should i get on the cam, or should i just settle for some higher ratio roller rockers?
Cam, springs, pushrods- $700
Oil pump, timing chain- $200
Tune- $400
Install- $750, Not sure if you said you could do this yourself.
This is on the low side too.
UPGRADE SPRINGS! sorry if i missed. i would put at least some budget ls6 heads (1k) on when you change cams. but since your bound and determined to go cam only, my ls6 wimpy cam dynos peak hp at 5700. bigger cams should have higher hp peaks. how high do you wish to rev your daily driver with 80k on the odometer? well i wouldnt go over 224 dur with a 114 lsa. just my 2 cents. (i'm conservative)
A cam cost more to install than a TC if you get all the parts you need.
Cam,
Springs
Retainers
Valve seals
Timing chain
Oil pump
push rods
tune
If you don't use all the above components in a cam swap, then you're doing it half-assed and asking for trouble. I haven't even mentioned other good things like upgraded lifters, UD pulley, and adjustable timing sprockets.
Even if you do the install yourself, the cost is WAY more than a torque converter and cooler. You don't necessarily need a tune with a high stall TC (making it even cheaper).
Cam,
Springs
Retainers
Valve seals
Timing chain
Oil pump
push rods
tune
If you don't use all the above components in a cam swap, then you're doing it half-assed and asking for trouble. I haven't even mentioned other good things like upgraded lifters, UD pulley, and adjustable timing sprockets.
Even if you do the install yourself, the cost is WAY more than a torque converter and cooler. You don't necessarily need a tune with a high stall TC (making it even cheaper).
__________________
2013 Corvette Grand Sport A6 LME forged 416, Greg Good ported TFS 255 LS3 heads, 222/242 .629"/.604" 121LSA Pat G blower cam, ARH 1 7/8" headers, ESC Novi 1500 Supercharger w/8 rib direct drive conversion, 747rwhp/709rwtq on 93 octane, 801rwhp/735rwtq on race fuel, 10.1 @ 147.25mph 1/4 mile, 174.7mph Half Mile.
2016 Corvette Z51 M7 Magnuson Heartbeat 2300 supercharger, TSP LT headers, Pat G tuned, 667rwhp, 662rwtq, 191mph TX Mile.
2009.5 Pontiac G8 GT 6.0L, A6, AFR 230v2 heads. 506rwhp/442rwtq. 11.413 @ 121.29mph 1/4 mile, 168.7mph TX Mile
2000 Pewter Ram Air Trans Am M6 heads/cam 508 rwhp/445 rwtq SAE, 183.092 TX Mile
2022 Cadillac Escalade 6.2L A10 S&B CAI, Corsa catback.
2023 Corvette 3LT Z51 soon to be modified.
Custom LSX tuning in person or via email press here.
2013 Corvette Grand Sport A6 LME forged 416, Greg Good ported TFS 255 LS3 heads, 222/242 .629"/.604" 121LSA Pat G blower cam, ARH 1 7/8" headers, ESC Novi 1500 Supercharger w/8 rib direct drive conversion, 747rwhp/709rwtq on 93 octane, 801rwhp/735rwtq on race fuel, 10.1 @ 147.25mph 1/4 mile, 174.7mph Half Mile.
2016 Corvette Z51 M7 Magnuson Heartbeat 2300 supercharger, TSP LT headers, Pat G tuned, 667rwhp, 662rwtq, 191mph TX Mile.
2009.5 Pontiac G8 GT 6.0L, A6, AFR 230v2 heads. 506rwhp/442rwtq. 11.413 @ 121.29mph 1/4 mile, 168.7mph TX Mile
2000 Pewter Ram Air Trans Am M6 heads/cam 508 rwhp/445 rwtq SAE, 183.092 TX Mile
2022 Cadillac Escalade 6.2L A10 S&B CAI, Corsa catback.
2023 Corvette 3LT Z51 soon to be modified.
Custom LSX tuning in person or via email press here.
The subject is Mute!! Allow this guy to find out on his own. All of this jibberish about Heads,Springs...?? WTF?? Some of you have NO clue as to what your talking about.
PatrickG
Predator
are both a wealth of knowledge and are well versed with the LSX platform.
I paid $725.00 for my Vigilante3600 brand new. ( couple of years ago). You are looking @ approx. $1K-$1200.00 for a Tq Converter,cooler shipped! Figure a couple of hours to have it installed @ approx. $125.00 per hr.. ( high end).. as Patrick stated, NO need for a tune with the stock cam. Although it would greatly help, it will also not hinder your perf. You will FEEL the difference immediately with NO ill effects on your car.
FORGET the CAM for a first mod!! until you do a Stall on your A4..
Any of you experts feel free to confirm of deny my "personal" advise.
PatrickG
Predator
are both a wealth of knowledge and are well versed with the LSX platform.
I paid $725.00 for my Vigilante3600 brand new. ( couple of years ago). You are looking @ approx. $1K-$1200.00 for a Tq Converter,cooler shipped! Figure a couple of hours to have it installed @ approx. $125.00 per hr.. ( high end).. as Patrick stated, NO need for a tune with the stock cam. Although it would greatly help, it will also not hinder your perf. You will FEEL the difference immediately with NO ill effects on your car.
FORGET the CAM for a first mod!! until you do a Stall on your A4..
Any of you experts feel free to confirm of deny my "personal" advise.
I don't get why Yank advertises like this then.....
SUPER STOCK 4000 4L60E/4L65E LS1
245mm very high stall torque ratio. 4000 stall, 2.6 STR - $725
PRO THRUSTER 4000 4L60E/4L65E LS1
245mm, Stall speed 4000, Posi Lock-Up Clutch w/Kevlar Linings, lightweight billet cover, 2.2 STR - $845
Can anybody help me get the difference through my thick skull?
The PT shift extension is around 5800 IIRC so it requires a bigger cam that revs to 6500+ to work best. My SS Yank hits hard on launch and works well with my 6500 shift point. BTW my cam carries past 6500 but due to crappy 98 rod bolts I don't wanna build my 402 yet LOL
