forged motor?
forged motor? not sure if this is the right place for this or not..but anyways...i went to the track did my burnout pull up to the line and there is the sound of somethin in the engine moving around that shouldnt be..so anyways a few people told me it could be a piston rod? then someothers said it could be worse...so since the motor has to come apart i was thinking about building a forged motor..now my question is, what all does it take and about how much? i have no idea what i would need or where to look to get the parts..i will be keeping the heads i have and putting in a bigger cam.. and i heard the stock crank can handle all the power i can throw at it, is that true? thanks
AFAIK you will want:
forged piston heads, stronger ringlands, forged connecting rods, ARP studs and rod bolts. The stock crank's conservative threshold is 650hp (rwhp or flywheel???).
Purchase used from FS section or support the community by buying new from vendors. Price checking is up to you depending on brands and your specifications.
forged piston heads, stronger ringlands, forged connecting rods, ARP studs and rod bolts. The stock crank's conservative threshold is 650hp (rwhp or flywheel???).
Purchase used from FS section or support the community by buying new from vendors. Price checking is up to you depending on brands and your specifications.
Banned
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 301
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From: NJ
We've made over 1000 RWHP with a stock crankshaft.
Forged motors are always nice because then the sky is the limit for the amount of power you can throw through it.
Feel free to give us a call if you have any questions.
Max
908.317.4496
Forged motors are always nice because then the sky is the limit for the amount of power you can throw through it.
Feel free to give us a call if you have any questions.
Max
908.317.4496
I'm building a budget forged 347 right now. Here is a list of my parts just to give you a ruff idea.
stock 2000 LS1 block
stock crank
stock main caps
stock lifter trays
Diamond street/strip nitrous pistons -7cc (3.905" bore)
Crower 6.125" forged rods
ARP 2000 rod bolts
ARP head bolts
ARP main studs
Melling oil pump
LS2 timing chain
LS7 lifters
For your machine work your looking at the following: (by my standards this is a minimum)
Jet washed (this method is used since the block is aluminum)
Mains line honed with ARP studs installed/torqued
Bore/hone block to 3.905 bore (which takes it from a 346ci to 347ci)
Block deck checked/smoothed
I would also highly suggest you have the machine shop balance all your internals while they have the block doin the machine work. It would be unwise not to. This should give you a good idea of what your looking at minus the new main bearings, cam bearings & misc. gaskets.
stock 2000 LS1 block
stock crank
stock main caps
stock lifter trays
Diamond street/strip nitrous pistons -7cc (3.905" bore)
Crower 6.125" forged rods
ARP 2000 rod bolts
ARP head bolts
ARP main studs
Melling oil pump
LS2 timing chain
LS7 lifters
For your machine work your looking at the following: (by my standards this is a minimum)
Jet washed (this method is used since the block is aluminum)
Mains line honed with ARP studs installed/torqued
Bore/hone block to 3.905 bore (which takes it from a 346ci to 347ci)
Block deck checked/smoothed
I would also highly suggest you have the machine shop balance all your internals while they have the block doin the machine work. It would be unwise not to. This should give you a good idea of what your looking at minus the new main bearings, cam bearings & misc. gaskets.
I'm building a budget forged 347 right now. Here is a list of my parts just to give you a ruff idea.
stock 2000 LS1 block
stock crank
stock main caps
stock lifter trays
Diamond street/strip nitrous pistons -7cc (3.905" bore)
Crower 6.125" forged rods
ARP 2000 rod bolts
ARP head bolts
ARP main studs
Melling oil pump
LS2 timing chain
LS7 lifters
For your machine work your looking at the following: (by my standards this is a minimum)
Jet washed (this method is used since the block is aluminum)
Mains line honed with ARP studs installed/torqued
Bore/hone block to 3.905 bore (which takes it from a 346ci to 347ci)
Block deck checked/smoothed
I would also highly suggest you have the machine shop balance all your internals while they have the block doin the machine work. It would be unwise not to. This should give you a good idea of what your looking at minus the new main bearings, cam bearings & misc. gaskets.
stock 2000 LS1 block
stock crank
stock main caps
stock lifter trays
Diamond street/strip nitrous pistons -7cc (3.905" bore)
Crower 6.125" forged rods
ARP 2000 rod bolts
ARP head bolts
ARP main studs
Melling oil pump
LS2 timing chain
LS7 lifters
For your machine work your looking at the following: (by my standards this is a minimum)
Jet washed (this method is used since the block is aluminum)
Mains line honed with ARP studs installed/torqued
Bore/hone block to 3.905 bore (which takes it from a 346ci to 347ci)
Block deck checked/smoothed
I would also highly suggest you have the machine shop balance all your internals while they have the block doin the machine work. It would be unwise not to. This should give you a good idea of what your looking at minus the new main bearings, cam bearings & misc. gaskets.
if you have the $$$ go forged. I bought mine from texas speed. I was going to build it my self but after comparing the cost's it was better to buy the short block.my origanal moter only has 27k miles on it and i liked the idea of having it just in case my new one goes boom. big mikes list is where you want to be. I would recomend arp head studs instead of bolts. When you take the heads off again "and you will" lol no coolant gets in to the holes. I have had my heads off the moter with the studs and didn't have any issues. also spend the money and get cometic head gaskets again when taking the heads back off you wont have to remove any old gasket material. I also agree with big mike have the rotating assembly ballanced block decked and line honed if your going to reuse you moter.
