StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

For some one who reads so much you didn't read my other post too well did you? I took the motor apart because of a reluctor wheel problem. The motor was otherwise perfect but the crank had to come out to change the reluctor wheel. (You know... that sprocket looking thing at the back of the crank...you have seen one before , haven't you?)
If you would have read properly, then you would have known that the motor was otherwise mint after 35K HARD miles. And sorry but as far as being wrong ... that's your opinion and not fact, I agree to disagree.

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

The 160* is 200% safe as long as you don't drive your car in colder climates.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

It is not the 160 that is the real issue, it is the final temps the motor reaches. The 160 will simply open sooner, which when cold out, can lead to further issues. Not sure on the f-body, but on the Vette there is a switch made by Vinci Performance that is fully adjustable with a screwdriver. So adjustments can be made to account for cooler weather. If you keep the motor temps within the boundaries stated above, you will be OK. As for the thermostat, it is easy to mod. Here is a link to when I did mine. Link

Bouvs

iTrader: (12)

ya that comment lost me too... I was a little confused what they meant...

Bouvs

iTrader: (12)

thats what I'm asking? why not just get a damn 160 Tstat, and then set your fans to come on at 200... you're running a bit cooler and your Tstat is doing most of the cooling work rather then your fans... whats the harm in that?

by the way if you're running your fbody in the winter and its cold enough to be detrimental to your engine why modify it at all its obvious you don't give a **** about your car because you'll wreck plenty of other things running it in snowy winter conditions...

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

You can buy the 160, all I am saying is you can mod your stock unit to open at any lower temp you want. As for winter, it doesn't necessarily have to be snowing to pull the engine/oil temps too low. This is what you don't want, so depending on where you live if you drive in the winter you need to be prepared to put a hotter stat back in to keep engine and oil temps within the range stated above.

Lickeyman

iTrader: (1)

And where exactly did you get your shim?

2002Z28Camaro

iTrader: (2)

probelly lowes they have 1/8" aluminum rods

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Not Lowes, but local hardware store. It was less than $1.

Ironxcross

iTrader: (8)

Umm.. where to start...

Lets see:

A. Its my only car.

B. I like to have some mods done because its entertaining.

C. I can drive my car plenty fine and have been through about 6 blizzards with it and numerous snow events.

D. Like what was said in the previous articles, these cars are meant to be used in a variety of environments. I live in New Jersey, we get a nice blend of everything here, several weeks ago it was 100+*, last winter was around 10*, my car had no problem with either realm.

End result: I ran a 160 stat on my old car and it ran fine, although I believe fuel mileage was compromised slightly from what I've seen. Would I do it again? No. The car runs at the proper temperature that it was meant to run at. Again, I'm thinking of the winter months that its going to be seeing, I don't really believe it needs to run cooler.

GTbrunO

Yea, just like there's no difference between 45* water, and 30* ice.... err water, hmmm...maybe 15 degress does make a big difference