Help Me Please.....
I'm not being a wise guy. You say that it enters the combustion chamber. But there are valve seals. If air can get through the valve seals, surely oil can too. So then there is something wrong with the valve seals then, no? If not then please elaborate on this.
I already explained this. The un-measured air enters the valve covers, then down the push rod guide holes (not the valve seals), into the crank case, then from the crank case through the PCV line into the intake, from the intake into the head runner, through the intake valve, into the combustion chamber, out of the combustion chamber, into the header, & out the exhaust.
I already explained this. The un-measured air enters the valve covers, then down the push rod guide holes (not the valve seals), into the crank case, then from the crank case through the PCV line into the intake, from the intake into the head runner, through the intake valve, into the combustion chamber, out of the combustion chamber, into the header, & out the exhaust.
Then there is a huge mix up. If you put a breather on it and leave the PCV line on it then of course it is going to do that. My apologizes. I said a few times to cap off the PCV lines and have just breathers. If you have breathers and the PCV setup on then that will happen. The PCV system must be closed. By having the breathers on there then it is in an open state. You are exactly right, there would be a difference IF you left the PCV valve and lines hooked up and put breathers on there. But if you remove the PCV and associated lines and capped them and added a breather then there will be no difference, because the air will not be able to enter the combustion chamber.
Yes, I agree. Sorry, thought you were one of the guys who likes to fool around in threads. My mistake.
9se93,
You should remove the valve covers & check on this. Clean the runner area where the threads come through & then spray some DW-40 on the rocker bolts near where they contact the head. Wait a while & check to see if the DW-40 ran down the threaded holes & into the runner. This will confirm or eliminate a second possible problem area noted by NHRAFORMULA00.
So, I've got a quick question....
If you've got the PCV valve hooked through the LS6 valley cover, and then have the valve-covers capped (no breather) where does the air come from? I mean, there will be a negative pressure in the crank case (vaccuum), so thats what we're looking for correct? Whats the point of the breathers if then you're just going to have atmosphere pressure in there?
Lastly, the oil you see in your intake runners...if it is not coming from your rocker bolts, is oil blow by from your piston. Are the rings gapped for nitrous? How much oil have you consumed? What pistons are you running, and what stroke?
Side note, the metal in the oil is not a problem for a brand new motor. You better be running non-synthetic oil as well, I would run some VR1 20w50 oil, with a bottle of the STP oil additive for extra anti-scuff additives. If you're running synthetic, your rings will not seal. Make sure you do a proper breakin sequence by draining the oil after your first start of the motor idling to warm-up, drain while the oil is hot to get all the metal out. Refill/new filter for 500 miles, and repeat, then run for 2000 miles, repeat, then you can fill with your favorite synthetic, although i would stick with the VR1 (valvoline racing oil) for its nice properties.
If you've got the PCV valve hooked through the LS6 valley cover, and then have the valve-covers capped (no breather) where does the air come from? I mean, there will be a negative pressure in the crank case (vaccuum), so thats what we're looking for correct? Whats the point of the breathers if then you're just going to have atmosphere pressure in there?
Lastly, the oil you see in your intake runners...if it is not coming from your rocker bolts, is oil blow by from your piston. Are the rings gapped for nitrous? How much oil have you consumed? What pistons are you running, and what stroke?
Side note, the metal in the oil is not a problem for a brand new motor. You better be running non-synthetic oil as well, I would run some VR1 20w50 oil, with a bottle of the STP oil additive for extra anti-scuff additives. If you're running synthetic, your rings will not seal. Make sure you do a proper breakin sequence by draining the oil after your first start of the motor idling to warm-up, drain while the oil is hot to get all the metal out. Refill/new filter for 500 miles, and repeat, then run for 2000 miles, repeat, then you can fill with your favorite synthetic, although i would stick with the VR1 (valvoline racing oil) for its nice properties.
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Verdad Gallardo What I asked was how the harmful vapors are evacuated from crank case if there are no breathers attached, and there is no outside source of air entering the system to allow for the "flushing" of the crankcase.
So, what i was asking is if the negative pressures in the crankcase actually does the job of evacuating the harmful vapors, or if you actually need a source of fresh air to help "flush" the system.
On my motor, I simply just run a line from the valley cover to the intake (no PCV valve) and a line from the pass side valve cover to the throttle body (no PCV valve), and no breathers.
Lastly, you absolutely CAN run a pcv system AND a breather, you just have to tune for it. What will end up happening is you would have to re-tune the VE table for the extra airflow and adjust your RAFIG tables to get your idle back to normal. All it is is just extra airflow, which can be easily compensated for by the tune. BTW, this would have to be on a hybrid SD tune, a MAF tune would not work properly because like mentioned before that air would be un-metered by the MAF, but with the SD thats a non-issue.
Last edited by Haans249; Sep 18, 2008 at 11:01 AM.