need an engine rebuild and got some questions....
need an engine rebuild and got some questions.... ok well my engine has got probably 140k-150k and im wanting to rebuild it so i can do things like H/C, forged internals, and bore and stroke if possible. In my autoclass right now we are going to be doing engine rebuilding soon. so im thinking what better of a time to rebuild it right? but i also need the trans rebuilt too. i would like to have the car fully running by spring time.
What exactly are my options as far as boring and stroking the engine. i know the LS1 is an aluminum block so its limited in this department. i dont really have the money to buy a whole new block. what all do i need to buy in order to do this. i would like to be running in the 11's or so or maybe more by the time im completely done with this car as far as modding it. should i tackle this myself or just leave it to a professional. i dont have a ton of money so doing it myself obviously would be cheaper and i would love to gain the knowledge and experience of doing it myself but i dont wanna **** it up. What would you guys recommend i do as far as rebuilding the engine and beefing it up? or should i just wait on the engine and leave it to a pro and have the trans rebuilt first instead?
What exactly are my options as far as boring and stroking the engine. i know the LS1 is an aluminum block so its limited in this department. i dont really have the money to buy a whole new block. what all do i need to buy in order to do this. i would like to be running in the 11's or so or maybe more by the time im completely done with this car as far as modding it. should i tackle this myself or just leave it to a professional. i dont have a ton of money so doing it myself obviously would be cheaper and i would love to gain the knowledge and experience of doing it myself but i dont wanna **** it up. What would you guys recommend i do as far as rebuilding the engine and beefing it up? or should i just wait on the engine and leave it to a pro and have the trans rebuilt first instead?
A 383 is a good way to go for you. You clean up the cylinders .005 and use a 4" stroke crank. 3.90 bore. You can go with an Eagle rotating assembly, it will still cost you say 3k or so in parts. The expnesive part of building and rebuilding an engine isnt the labor. Its the parts so you still get it with those costs, bu you can save some money on labor by assembling it yourself. The block will still need to be prepped.
All in all if your going to automotive school then doing it yourself will teach you invaluable lessons. BUT if your looking for a quality build and don't want to worry about it, having it built for you is a better option. Your looking at about 1400 in labor and block prep costs for a 383 short block
All in all if your going to automotive school then doing it yourself will teach you invaluable lessons. BUT if your looking for a quality build and don't want to worry about it, having it built for you is a better option. Your looking at about 1400 in labor and block prep costs for a 383 short block
I'd say keep the stock crank and buy pistons 3.905" and rods 6.125" along with new bearings. This will cut down on the cost and work on clearancing for the 4.00" crank. You could pull this off for about $2000. Or if you really want to be tight, you could use your rods and build a 347ci and save another $600.
well i want it handle a beating and some nitrous. i dont wanna cheap out on stuff then have to replace it later when it breaks. if you think i will be fine on running atleast 450+rwhp on the stock crank and rods then i will do that. about how much hp will i need to be running in the 11's?
Stock crank will handle pretty much anything you can throw at it in a street car. I have never heard of one breaking (some claim to have even hit almost 1000hp with stock crank). Rods and pistons are where you will need to upgrade. This will be the cheapest route, as JRacing said.
well i want it handle a beating and some nitrous. i dont wanna cheap out on stuff then have to replace it later when it breaks. if you think i will be fine on running atleast 450+rwhp on the stock crank and rods then i will do that. about how much hp will i need to be running in the 11's?
I just seen a set of 4130 H beams in the FS section for like $300. That's half price.
Stop and think about it for one second. Are you going to be happy making the same power after investing time and money into the engine? This is why I suggest stepping up to a 408. Also quick ET's are as much suspension as anything else.
Plus on top of that you had said you wanted to learn and are in an auto class. The 408 is the first step in educating yourself.
Good luck with it.
Plus on top of that you had said you wanted to learn and are in an auto class. The 408 is the first step in educating yourself.
Good luck with it.
Last edited by 99blancoSS; Sep 19, 2008 at 09:41 PM.
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will i need to buy some sort of engine rebuild kit too or will that stuff be included with my rotating assembly?
i found an eagle 383 for 2600 vs tsp for 1800
Eaglehttp://www.jegs.com/p/Eagle/757303/10002/-1
TSPhttp://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=884&catid=88
sounds like the tsp is alot cheaper and comes with similar or the same parts. whats the difference?
i found an eagle 383 for 2600 vs tsp for 1800
Eaglehttp://www.jegs.com/p/Eagle/757303/10002/-1
TSPhttp://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=884&catid=88
sounds like the tsp is alot cheaper and comes with similar or the same parts. whats the difference?
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First thing you need to do is figure out what your budget is. Otherwise if you start first you may find yourself running out of funds before the project is complete.
When you start adding up the little stuff like bearings and gaskets, new plugs, Machine shop costs, upgraded injectors, etc, etc... it can add up fast.
Once you figure out how much you can afford to spend then a realistic setup can be figured out from that.
Definitely if you are in an auto school use this to learn and save money, I would think the teacher would keep you from making any major mistakes, but you always have this forum if you run into questions.
When you start adding up the little stuff like bearings and gaskets, new plugs, Machine shop costs, upgraded injectors, etc, etc... it can add up fast.
Once you figure out how much you can afford to spend then a realistic setup can be figured out from that.
Definitely if you are in an auto school use this to learn and save money, I would think the teacher would keep you from making any major mistakes, but you always have this forum if you run into questions.
id say my budget isnt much more than 3k. i can afford more but it will just take longer cause i need to save more. then I need to rebuild the trans after this too.
Will it be possible to complete a 383 LS1 with forged internals to handle most things i can throw at it. One being nitrous later down the road....
Will it be possible to complete a 383 LS1 with forged internals to handle most things i can throw at it. One being nitrous later down the road....
alright, heres what im hoping to do. Just want to run it by you guys to make sure it is all good. I want to get a junkyard lq4 block and add some basic and more neccesary mods now while its out of the car. but i would like to reuse alot of the stock parts with this new block and then upgrade some of the more expensive things later.
New Performance parts:
Junkyard lq4/lq9 block
trex or ms4 cam
forged Pistons .03 over
double roller timing chain
valve springs comp 918
rockers
headers
injectors
pushrods
Reusable parts:
crank
rods
heads
intake
throttle body
sound good? im sure im forgetting some things but does this all sound like a good idea and will most of the old parts be reusable on the old block?
New Performance parts:
Junkyard lq4/lq9 block
trex or ms4 cam
forged Pistons .03 over
double roller timing chain
valve springs comp 918
rockers
headers
injectors
pushrods
Reusable parts:
crank
rods
heads
intake
throttle body
sound good? im sure im forgetting some things but does this all sound like a good idea and will most of the old parts be reusable on the old block?
