Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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Wanting a "swap it and forget it" cam...

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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 09:43 AM
  #21  
PREDATOR-Z's Avatar
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From: BFE
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Dont swap anything. Stay stock untill you are ready, do bolt ons first.
Retune it after all boltons are on and enjoy.
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 10:42 AM
  #22  
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From: Wallingford CT
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Dont swap anything. Stay stock untill you are ready, do bolt ons first.
Retune it after all boltons are on and enjoy.
Agreed, thats what I did.

When the cam went in the tune needed a slight brush up, and even then I am going to have it redone, I had a way clogged fuel filter that bearly allowed any air through (my fault)

My car was built backwards to forward.
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 10:54 AM
  #23  
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I'd also throw out the Texas Speed 220R or 224R for what you're looking for. They have been proven to make nice power gains without sacrificing driveability! A Comp 918 spring (or PAC equivalent which we stock) would be a nice combo that you could throw in and not have to worry about! Of course any camshaft change will benefit from PCM tuning, but many who ae on a tighter budget with these camshafts do not tune their car.

Let us know if we can help with your combo!
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 11:01 AM
  #24  
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From: OKC
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Lot of responses, thanks guys. Once I get my headers on, I'll probably get a tune as Predator-Z suggested and go from there.

At least I have more of a selection now. I don't think I would have a problem changing springs out (or checking them) every 20-30k miles, but I will need to do the hands on valvespring change to know for sure. Kinda like changing my spark plugs. I know shops charge an arm and a leg for plug changes and don't always change #8, so I took my time and changed them all myself recently. The driver's side was easy, passenger side was ok until I got to #6 and #8, but I did it. I'll be changing them myself from now on. I could be the same way with valve springs as well.

I do have a question though while I'm here. Say a TR224 on a 112lsa lopes a bit and comes on a little sooner than one on a 114lsa, the 112lsa cam will effect my A/C correct? If so, the ASA cam on a 110lsa would obviously be one of the worst choices as far as A/C is concerned (@ idle) right?

The only reason I want an A/C is the fact that I didn't have/use A/C in my younger years (been there, done that). When it's really hot out, I don't feel like coming back to the office after lunch with sweat pouring off of me.
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 11:39 AM
  #25  
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From: winter springs, fl
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Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
Agreed. But let me say this, UNLESS your running a stock spring on a stock cam at some point, you WILL need to change springs. Now compared to a very aggressive cam, this may go MANY years and miles before a new set should be thrown in. But nothings is set it and forget it. Even a tune which you SHOULD get too.
ya i redo my idle tune from time to time making it better, but all i have is ls6 springs and stock pushrods with the hotcam, works great
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Old Oct 10, 2008 | 04:46 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Dyosis
I do have a question though while I'm here. Say a TR224 on a 112lsa lopes a bit and comes on a little sooner than one on a 114lsa, the 112lsa cam will effect my A/C correct? If so, the ASA cam on a 110lsa would obviously be one of the worst choices as far as A/C is concerned (@ idle) right?

The only reason I want an A/C is the fact that I didn't have/use A/C in my younger years (been there, done that). When it's really hot out, I don't feel like coming back to the office after lunch with sweat pouring off of me.
I ran a patriot 226/226 112 camshaft with a 700rpm idle and the a/c would stay ice cold at idle still.

I'd reccommend an ls6 or gt2-3 like mentioned before and just use ls6 springs, they will last longer than your engine most likely. I run the ls6 in my car in tandem with full bolt ons and ls6 heads and last dyno before the fast was 406whp/395tq... so don't let anyone talk you into a monster camshaft!
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