Old people do the dumbest things
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2012
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Old people do the dumbest things I have an Ls376/525 EFI that is a few years old. Health. So now I am putting it in a 56 Chevy 4 dr wagon. A few years ago I had put a TKO 600 on it and there it sat. Now I have decided to go automatic. So Removing the pilot bearing. Using the grease method. I now have read that is bad move. The bearing didn't seem to be coming out. I got on ls1tech and read about it. I guess I was just pushing back the oil plug. It is sitting 1.8" and I read should be 1.25. So how far before it will drop into oil pan. Since the engine has never run or had oil in it. So I want to know should I just drive it thru with grease? Or drill hook and pull it out. If it is more than 2" could I just put a sealer in it or am I just going to cause another problem. Best way to get a new one in evenly? I see that being a problem if I drive it in straight. Any thoughts would be a appreciated. Thanks mike
So OP are you saying that youre old?
Um I don't see a magnet pulling that pressed in plug back where it goes. Gonna have to try & hook it out & install a new one or leave it where it is. When I tried using a hook puller to remove the pilot bearing on mine, it wouldn't move so I just ground it out with a die grinder & carbide burr.
Um I don't see a magnet pulling that pressed in plug back where it goes. Gonna have to try & hook it out & install a new one or leave it where it is. When I tried using a hook puller to remove the pilot bearing on mine, it wouldn't move so I just ground it out with a die grinder & carbide burr.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2012
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This is what I am going to do..... This is what I have moved it in maybe 3/8 of inch by the scoring I see moving toward the oil pan. I pulled the pan and windage tray. And the the plug is 2" back of the crank section. it is pushed back the same amount all the way around.
After reading as many posts as I could find. Since is still aligned straight in the crank I will clean the inside of crank with brake cleaner. I will then angle it nose down and seal it with locktite. I then will pack in 1" of rev silicon with a dowel. I have read that that section of the crank has no oil feed. So I figure this will work.
If anyone see's a problem with this please let me know.
I could knock the old one out but still have the problem of driving a new one in straight. So I would just seal that one also.
Thanks
Mike
After reading as many posts as I could find. Since is still aligned straight in the crank I will clean the inside of crank with brake cleaner. I will then angle it nose down and seal it with locktite. I then will pack in 1" of rev silicon with a dowel. I have read that that section of the crank has no oil feed. So I figure this will work.
If anyone see's a problem with this please let me know.
I could knock the old one out but still have the problem of driving a new one in straight. So I would just seal that one also.
Thanks
Mike
If it's not pushed all the way through, I would think it should seal OK as is if it's strait. If you're concerned, you might clean the bore and just add a second plug with a little sealant on it.
Btw, did you realize the crank flange bolts are bored all the way through to the pan too? You need to use GM flywheel/flexplate bolts with sealant.
Btw, did you realize the crank flange bolts are bored all the way through to the pan too? You need to use GM flywheel/flexplate bolts with sealant.
