Headers install, now runs like ass
Headers install, now runs like *** Not sure if I'm in the proper forum but...
Just picked up my 08 C6 from having my American Racing headers with catted X-pipe installed and i can't remember the last time i felt so heart broken...
Issues are;
-The clearance on the passenger side is so tight that it vibrates against the frame (see pic).
-car has lost its sharp throttle response, and once the car is warmed unto about 190* (open loop?) it will stumble and kick and pop and miss at low RPM (during gentle acceleration). also kinda sounds like a old 1950's car too. In neutral the engine shake is then felt and noticeable . Unsmooth. Engine light came on after 10 min of driving (about 200*).
-Sounds like there is leaking exhaust but the guy claims there is no leaks. Sounds like its coming from around the x-pipe area but I don't see any leaks.. Do aftermarket headers have that kind of ffft ffft sound?
Just picked up my 08 C6 from having my American Racing headers with catted X-pipe installed and i can't remember the last time i felt so heart broken...
Issues are;
-The clearance on the passenger side is so tight that it vibrates against the frame (see pic).
-car has lost its sharp throttle response, and once the car is warmed unto about 190* (open loop?) it will stumble and kick and pop and miss at low RPM (during gentle acceleration). also kinda sounds like a old 1950's car too. In neutral the engine shake is then felt and noticeable . Unsmooth. Engine light came on after 10 min of driving (about 200*).
-Sounds like there is leaking exhaust but the guy claims there is no leaks. Sounds like its coming from around the x-pipe area but I don't see any leaks.. Do aftermarket headers have that kind of ffft ffft sound?
The gaskets and hardware came new from American Headers factory, i assume they are good. the header gasket felt metallic and had a silver shine... But they don't sound leaky at the head, more down in the middle x-pipe/cats area..
Yes, throwing a code, engine light on. The shop tech is getting a GM code reader tomorrow.
****** expensive price to pay only to be grinding away at my car just because one side doesn't fit as good as the other side...
Would running a bit rich cause the car to stumble and miss?
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Verdad Gallardo Engine light fixed Correct about the plugs, #1&7 we not connecting, the guy broke those spark plug wires..
Now I need new wires.
Grinded the floor seam, no more rattle.. what's that metal or aluminum??
He is still denying the leak which is missing me off because it's obvious..
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2015
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FWIW, when I put Kooks on my car, the manifold gaskets they sent were complete ****. Now that I think about it, all of the hardware was ****, too, including the solid metal gaskets for the midpipe to xpipe connection - I could never get them to seal up correctly. I ended up using OEM MLS gaskets at the block, Remflex gaskets on the mids-xpipe, and buying a proper set of grade 8 bolts to connect it all together. No problems after that.
From my headers to mids, I have a ball connection like you have to your xpipe. Mine were so mangled from the factory that I had to peen them back into round. I also put some Permatex Ultra Copper on them to help seal them up.
Stupid question, but you did get the car tuned for the headers?
From my headers to mids, I have a ball connection like you have to your xpipe. Mine were so mangled from the factory that I had to peen them back into round. I also put some Permatex Ultra Copper on them to help seal them up.
Stupid question, but you did get the car tuned for the headers?
Last edited by esau999; Sep 29, 2015 at 04:07 PM.
FWIW, when I put Kooks on my car, the manifold gaskets they sent were complete ****. Now that I think about it, all of the hardware was ****, too, including the solid metal gaskets for the midpipe to xpipe connection - I could never get them to seal up correctly. I ended up using OEM MLS gaskets at the block, Remflex gaskets on the mids-xpipe, and buying a proper set of grade 8 bolts to connect it all together. No problems after that.
From my headers to mids, I have a ball connection like you have to your xpipe. Mine were so mangled from the factory that I had to peen them back into round. I also put some Permatex Ultra Copper on them to help seal them up.
Stupid question, but you did get the car tuned for the headers?
From my headers to mids, I have a ball connection like you have to your xpipe. Mine were so mangled from the factory that I had to peen them back into round. I also put some Permatex Ultra Copper on them to help seal them up.
Stupid question, but you did get the car tuned for the headers?
Interesting. i didn't look closely at the hardware but i didn't think the x-pipe has gaskets? The sound at the engine is quiet so that header gasket provided was good..
No tune yet, closest dyno tune shop would be a 7hr round trip. However there is a guy that does mail order tunes for only $150 i can't remember if he is on this forum or corvetteforum, ill get one from him, lots of happy customers...
But like i said the running issue is fixed now (was caused by broken spark plug wires). Runs perfect again and very smooth.
Not as sharp throttle response under 2000rpm but definitely more noticeable torque above 2500 and the engine does rev quicker.
Although the x-pipe leak sound is much less now that the wires are fixed (not sure how that relates), that tinny-hissy-leaky sound is still there which wasn't when stock and I'm starting to think thats just how long tubes sound.
Thanks for the advise on the ultra copper, is that like exhaust cement? Maybe ill try that.
There was someone that mentioned the valvetrain sound will be more prominent, i hate that.
Ill probably make a video and figure out how to post it..
I have installed tsp headers that fit like crap.... Every car is different the number of complaints the big names have are far less than the chinese stuff.
OP I cant really hear the air sounds but the ticking you hear under the car is very normal with headers. headers are much thinner than cast iron so the dont isolate noise that well, the ticking is just the valvetrain doing its thing. if theres another noise there try to capture it a little better so we can hear. an exhaust leak will sound different than the normal tick you hear from the tin wall headers
OP I cant really hear the air sounds but the ticking you hear under the car is very normal with headers. headers are much thinner than cast iron so the dont isolate noise that well, the ticking is just the valvetrain doing its thing. if theres another noise there try to capture it a little better so we can hear. an exhaust leak will sound different than the normal tick you hear from the tin wall headers
I have installed tsp headers that fit like crap.... Every car is different the number of complaints the big names have are far less than the chinese stuff.
OP I cant really hear the air sounds but the ticking you hear under the car is very normal with headers. headers are much thinner than cast iron so the dont isolate noise that well, the ticking is just the valvetrain doing its thing. if theres another noise there try to capture it a little better so we can hear. an exhaust leak will sound different than the normal tick you hear from the tin wall headers
OP I cant really hear the air sounds but the ticking you hear under the car is very normal with headers. headers are much thinner than cast iron so the dont isolate noise that well, the ticking is just the valvetrain doing its thing. if theres another noise there try to capture it a little better so we can hear. an exhaust leak will sound different than the normal tick you hear from the tin wall headers
...I know, the air sound isn't really coming through, my phone camera won't pick it up. Also, under low rpm acceleration you can hear that air 'shhh' sound louder which i don't think sounds good either, but maybe its 'normal'.
Putting it up on the hoist wednesday for another look for leaks and to see if we can secure the mufflers better.
REALLY Sucks that the valve noise is noticeably louder now. Kinda embarrassing.
It's not too unusual to get lower voltages off your O2 sensors at lower exhaust flow with long tubes. There's less back pressure and less heat. Then, give it some gas and the O2 sensors sort of wake up. The result is you run rich at idle and stoich once you get some air moving.
Did you use O2 harness extenders, get a longer lead sensor, or solder wires to your existing sensors? I did the solder thing and they never really acted right after that.
Hope that makes some sense.
Did you use O2 harness extenders, get a longer lead sensor, or solder wires to your existing sensors? I did the solder thing and they never really acted right after that.
Hope that makes some sense.
Hopefully some of what i am hearing is infact a leak that can be fixed when i put it on a hoist wednesday, but I've come to the conclusion (from others that have posted) that most of what i hear is the valvetrain and is 'normal'.
Hopefully will get a ECS tune before frost as long as i get my other car from the body shop back in time. I am assuming so, i figure another month or so until the first salt trucks start to come out...
Hoping the tune will sort it out, i can sometimes feel the timing advance and the extra power comes in but most of the time its holding back. Noticeable.
It's not too unusual to get lower voltages off your O2 sensors at lower exhaust flow with long tubes. There's less back pressure and less heat. Then, give it some gas and the O2 sensors sort of wake up. The result is you run rich at idle and stoich once you get some air moving.
Did you use O2 harness extenders, get a longer lead sensor, or solder wires to your existing sensors? I did the solder thing and they never really acted right after that.
Hope that makes some sense.
Did you use O2 harness extenders, get a longer lead sensor, or solder wires to your existing sensors? I did the solder thing and they never really acted right after that.
Hope that makes some sense.
Very interesting, i presume a tune would help that??
I used 02 extensions..