Stack Injection on LY6
Since the LY6 is DBW (e38 ecm) and I am wanting to run the stack injection which is cable driven. I prefer not to go with an aftermarket engine controller since they are so expensive and i'd like for the ECM to control the transmission as well. I was thinking of running either a 4L60e or 4L80e. I spoke with speedmasters and they stated I could use stock style injections (EV6 i think, correct me if I am wrong) and will have to have a speed density tune on whatever i decide to use for an engine controller.
So my questions are...
Can I switch harness to something different so I can a computer that will allow cable driven throttle or will I have to run the LPE Converter box and pick an ECM?
If i have to run the converter box what ECM is best, and how exactly does that work? (I have only done a little research on converter boxes)
Should I stay away from Stack Injection and if so, Why?
What can I do about running this setup?
Here is the link to the speedmaster ls3 stack injection.
http://store.speedmaster79.com/p-482...ete-satin.aspx
Stacks look cool, but there is a learning curve that can be pretty steep. Be prepared to mess with it for a while to get it right. My set up came with the linkage. I could never get it to balance correctly. So I ditched it all and fabbed my own linkage. Once or twice a year, I use the synchronometer and balance the throttle bodies. Sometimes it's a little off, but usually not.
The DBW can't be transferred to the new system without some fabrication. I'm sure it can be done, but I'v not seen any off the shelf components for that.
As for the rest of the ECU, it doesn't really care what components are at the other end of the wiring harness. So you can use stock injectors and sensors.
Many IR manifolds have provisions for vacuum ports, so you can use that for engine load. Obviously, with 8 ports, you can't use a mass air flow sensor. Not a big deal.
Also, be careful with cam selection. Keep overlap to a minimum to prevent reversion. Sometimes a smaller cam makes more power than a bigger cam. Also, be careful with head and intake selection; IR set ups are very sensitive to this. If the head ports and valves are bigger than the TB, then you'll easily lose intake charge charge velocity and all of your low end power.
Do NOT use "tea strainer" type filters. They'll cost you a lot of power.
Stacks look cool, and can make a boat load of power.
An old picture. It doesn't exctley look like that any more, but you get the idea.


The linkage was a PITA to set up. But once done, it's worth every minute of your time. If you can't balance the TB's, it will never run right, and no amount of tuning will fix that.

This is what happens when your heads are too big. Loss of intake charge velocity.

This is what happens with "Tea Strainer" filters. The two dyno runs are only a couple of minutes apart. Probably a good portion of the power could be tuned back in, but this indicates a lot of restriction.

This is where the engine sits now. With a bigger cam, it made 514 ft/lb's. But the smaller cam gives me more low end torque, and it pulls out of the corners better.
http://shop.brutespeed.com/Inglese-N...se-NG4090E.htm
Take a look at the links here for the Inglese system. The second link is the complete system. Bob
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
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E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
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