BeginLOL

Well, I hope you gents have time to read.. I'll shorten it up as best I can..
Car specs prior to repair: mild cam, 230/233(is what I was told), s&d kooks headers, high flow cats, looks exhaust.
Now, post repair: new cam, 235/239 with .627lift. New rockers, lifters, push rods, valve train. Still has the looks headers and hf cats and exhaust.

Car had knock this past July, I was on leave up in NH, and I'm stationed in NC. So I had to leave the car up here to get fixed. The car sat for 5 months with half a tank of gas, didn't move or anything. Needed to do a cam swap because it was shaved down a little, so me and my mechanic up here ordered all the parts needed and the bike went good. Nothing crazy there, had some shavings in the oil pan but didn't seem like any shavings got into anything where he didn't look. Car started, did the cam break in, got it on a tow truck, and over to the dyno. At the dyno car was misfiring, and not running well at all. Plan was to run out the gas with a "save tune" in it and get some new 93 in there. Did that, ran it below e and filled up with some shell 93. Brought it back and it ran fairly better, less back fire and Mia fire but still present at wot and top end. Afr was tuned up and was obviously not the problem. We then switched out the spark plugs from the 40 gap to tr6 ngk 36 gaps. No real difference was made. We then switched out the coil packs with a zl1 and it also made no difference. We replaced my coil packs back into the car and switched out the plug wires. At that point it made a huge difference. We then tunes the car with zl1 plug wires on there and my coil packs and we still had some searious misfire on top end, not wot until we hit 5k rpms. I was pushing 463.2whp prior to cam swap.. We could only unlock 420whp with this issue. Drove off from the dyno after 7 hours. After driving it a day or so the car started to sputter out almost every time throttle was applied. Finally the car broke down and would drive. You could head some cylinders were not firing. The entire bank 2 was not firing at all. Checked ground and bank 2 ground was not actually grounded. I rigged up a ground on coil 1, and seemed to fire bank 2 up instantly. Drove the car on a test drive and he seemed to have figured it all out, faulty ground. So we rigged up a second ground on coil 2 as a back up ground and taped it all up. I got in contact with my mechanic and he said he connected a braided ground strap off the 8th cylinder, THAT HAD BEEN DISCONNECTED FROM PREVIOUS REPAIRS. I bought this from a dealership, and have done all the work myself. Not once did I ever touch that wire bundle.

So basically.... If you can follow all of this.. Does anyone have any idea where my issues are coming from. Prior to the knock in July that car was mint.. Not I'm having all these insane issues with ignition or electrical. Could it be that braided ground strap off the back of bank 2?

Any help would be crucial... I leave for nc in less than 24 hours... And I'm in New Hampshire. I need to make it down obviously to sign back into work... Thank you gents!