07NBSChevy

iTrader: (1)

Ok guys, I just installed my new ATI Damper with a install tool and made sure it was seated. I used the old OEM bolt and torqued it down to 240 ft/lbs, then removed. I used anti-seize on the crank snout along with hi-temp silicone RTV in the key slot on the damper since I do not have a keyed crank, prior to install.

Now ARP recommends to use their lube (which I have) on the threads, underside of bolt head, and damper face where bolt makes contact, then torque to 235 ft/lbs.

ATI (Now this is what they recommend when using the ARP Bolt) recommends to use Hi-Temp Silicone RTV on both sides of washer, and 262 red loctite on threads, then torque to 230 ft/lbs.

Does anyone know the correct process I should use when installing the ARP Bolt?

Millenium Z06

Unless you want to do it multiple times from the balancer spinning the bolt off, use the locktite.

I put on an ATI and didnt key it and used the ARP bolt and lube and the balancer walked off and the bolt was loose. I re-did it and used red 262 and keyed it and it hasn't moved. Install with a balancer tool then torque the ARP bolt to 245lbs

Replace the timing cover seal too

07NBSChevy

iTrader: (1)

I did what ARP recommended and used red loctite. Torqued it down to 235 ft lbs. Everything is new so seals are good to go.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

I've done it both ways. The red loctite makes removal harder. No issues with the Moly lube spinning to 7K.

Best thing to do is key it and use the moly lube.