My intent with this intake was to see how far i could push the factory part, while trying to get it to carry more rpm. I needed it to carry up into the mid 7k range being it was being built for a lq9 short block with ls3 heads at the time that would live @ 5500-7500rpm mostly. So i new the first thing i needed to do was open the inlet for a 102mm tb. But i also didnt want to just hog it out seeing i know air speed is king. So to have some air speed youll see in the pic i matched the 102mm opening but in the mid throat of the inlet itself it blends down to 96mm as you can sort of make out.





Now most here would just rod mod it an call it a day well being every rod modded intake ive seen still seemed to dive rpm wise around 7k this wasnt going to work for my app. So i figured let me try something an cut the runner back seeing it should help me carry rpm being a shorter runner. Which later on thanks to btr you will see all the work payed off. My first need was to gain access to the runners so the bottom clearly needed to go so i could have access to work..At the time i didnt have a wood blade around for my sawzaw, so i tried some things..being ive done a couple different intakes now a multi tool with a wood blade is what ive found to work nice and give me better control when cutting




Now that i can fully see what i was working with, i decided to start to trim the runners back like i wanted. I also smoothed everything so not to have any sharp 90s for angles inside the intake. the intake runner inlet is 2.25"lx2"w an had 9" total for length factory. I decided to take it down to 7" total in length which by doing so i opened the inlet of the runner up to 3.5"l x 2". In the pic you can see me starting to cut everything an blend the ridges left that are between the port inlets..i used a die grinder and some rotary rasp i had sitting around. It cut the plastic better then the burrs i had an wont melt the plastic as fast like a dbl cut burr if your not going at a crazy speed.




Now being i had everything cut down where i wanted. It was now time to start filling an smoothing stuff with epoxy. For epoxy i decided to use z-spar on the intake which is a nice 2 part marine epoxy used a lot in the racing world if you dont know what it is. So as you see i went to applying an then smoothing. Nice thing is you mix the epoxy in water and it makes it easy to smooth, so light sanding is only needed if you get good enough at applying it to the areas.





Now that left me with the first pic below..its nice an all but as you can see where i had cut the runners back it now needed a radius on the entrance. So i decided to take some 1/8" wood dowels i had laying around an then covered them in epoxy an shaped them to give a nice entrance. As you can see in the last pic i now have a nice entrance all around. At this point i was done and took some 1/8th plate i had laying around and then epoxied that to the floor which can be seen in the last pic.






So now at this point i had this nice intake i had worked an was wondering if all my work was really worth it..i had about 8-10hrs in it over about 2 days being i let the epoxy dry over a night. So after some talking on fb with Richard Holdner. Brian Tooley says hey we are going to be doing some intake testing on our cam only ls3 dyno mule send it on over. So off it went an then after a couple delays do to the dyno engine getting hurt they where finally able to test the intake for me (a big thanks to brian,nick an everyone at btr for that). Below is the graph of what a stocker did on the same engine an then the sheet they gave me after testing. Said an done i made 15hp over a stocker. It moved the peak tq up about 500rpms while not dropping the peak number. Then it made 15hp more at 6600 rpm, but also floated at that 585hp range to 7k before starting to fall off nicely till it hits 7400rpms.

 

thats scary.

 

lol whys that

 

nice results but makes me wonder if any of that epoxy might detach. He’s my thought process. The intake flexes constantly and I wonder if that flexing will cause it to detach?

 

stock intake doesnt flex..the plastic intakes that would maybe do that would be dormans. Much softer plastic..nylon 6 vs factory nylon66..ones u have one open youll see it wont flex...ive thought about it delaminating,but being i have injection molding slight background all plastics are oil so heat cycles will make some plastics release oils over time..nylon 66 though when we used it that was never a worry.it was also designed for a drag car so it wasnt going to see tons of heat cycles..if u look i have it up for sale an i say designed for drag use.

a couple porters have used it..if you search you will see dennis suggest using it on here long ago..

 

Now all you need to do is 3D print it.......

 

this thread dennis suggested it an tony agrees..

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ml#post7796282

 

lol it could be done..some said make a mold..i dont have mold money being i know a proto type would be 30k prob lol.. 3d printing i could prob do some..i was going to turn a l92 intake into a tunnel ram but once i cut the top of i was like how the **** does number 7 even breath..it gets almost no air..i know the tbss/nbss are close to it but they dont hide the back port like a l92 does..ill post a link to a thread i have that has it a pic or 2 in it..i shelved it for now..might throw two 92mm's on it one day..once i sell this intake ill be buying a holley split.i want to try that an am going to do some work to it an i believe the ls3 4500 version is going to be out soon...should be able to carry to 7800 with it.

heres that link scroll down an youll **** at the l92 intake
https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads...#post-72562913

 

Did you just glue the bottom back together?

 

z spared it on.thought about nutcerting the bottom an making it removable with a gasket