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Engine alignment in the engine bay...

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Old Feb 28, 2021 | 05:42 PM
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Question Engine alignment in the engine bay...

I'm about to throw my LS427 (LS7) and T56 assembly into my second-gen for the first time so I can figure out where the cut needs to happen for the shifter. I have the front-end off the car to make getting the assembly in easier. I'm using a Speedtech Extreme subframe. I have their motor mount adapter plates as well as their motor mounts. There appears to be adjustment points for the following points:
  • infinite adjustments on the Speedtech subframe
  • three set adjustment points on the Speedtech mounting plates
  • two set adjustment points on the actual LS427 block

I do not know what settings I should be using for those three adjustment points. I'm guessing, because there are so many points with so much variable, there's specific standards I should be using to judge where the engine/trans assembly sits in the bay? Would love to get some feedback, tips, whatever... that points me in the right direction. Thanks.
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Old Mar 2, 2021 | 09:02 PM
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Set the engine up with the oil pan that you’ll be running, as low as you can to the crossmember, and set the pass side cylinder head as close to the firewall as you dare. This is how I did my Chevelle setup with zero regrets. I’m 1/4” off the firewall, and the oil pan is about the same from crossmember. This puts weight low and as far back as possible in the chassis for handling purposes. Big MSD intake fits fine and I have plenty of room in front of the engine for cold air intake and electric fans to play nice together. Someone in my build thread told me I would regret putting the engine so far back in the bay, as it would be hard to get engine out. I’ve had engine out of car 3 times and it’s easy peasy. I just pull engine and trans out together. I could leave bellhousing bolted to engine and drop trans only, before I start to pull engine next time I suppose, but it’s no big deal either way.
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Old Mar 2, 2021 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
Set the engine up with the oil pan that you’ll be running, as low as you can to the crossmember, and set the pass side cylinder head as close to the firewall as you dare. This is how I did my Chevelle setup with zero regrets. I’m 1/4” off the firewall, and the oil pan is about the same from crossmember. This puts weight low and as far back as possible in the chassis for handling purposes. Big MSD intake fits fine and I have plenty of room in front of the engine for cold air intake and electric fans to play nice together. Someone in my build thread told me I would regret putting the engine so far back in the bay, as it would be hard to get engine out. I’ve had engine out of car 3 times and it’s easy peasy. I just pull engine and trans out together. I could leave bellhousing bolted to engine and drop trans only, before I start to pull engine next time I suppose, but it’s no big deal either way.
Thanks, Scott. This is helpful and I will use this information.
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Old Mar 3, 2021 | 08:30 PM
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Don't forget to put whatever Exhaust, Headers or Manifolds, you are going to use before you make anything permanent.
Run the Hydraulic Clutch line as well
The Headers was the most Difficult part for me.
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Old Apr 16, 2021 | 09:37 AM
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Agree down and rear as much as possible. Makes floor clearance on trans much less of an issue. Offset to passenger side if necessary for steering / header clearance. Mock up with starter, headers, intake, a/c, alternator for any accessory clearance issues.
Take time to clearance firewall to make bellhousing bolts accessible. If you can - check if headers will go in and out without lifting engine.

Im doing the same on a first gen. Cutting and welding is not an issue to get what I want. Stack of conversion plates for engine mounts seems silly.
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