The PCV should have a restrictor in the valve cover of .100 or so or just an old fashion PCV valve. Here is a photo of what some LS motors have in the valley pan note the small bottle cap plug with hole in it. You also need a fresh air breather what do you have there? A photo of your set up in car might help us too.

 

Correct, I did have an inline PCV valve on my setup previously. I used an inline rather than built in because my Holley Valve covers had no build in pcv like factory covers. They recommended the Beck Arney inline PCV valve. I am also running a WS6store catch can setup. After emailing back and forth with him regarding my setup, he suggested removing the inline PCV because his catch can provides enough restriction in the catch can itself.

As far as breather, it is my understanding that there should not be a breather on an LS running a MAF. A breather would allow for unmetered air, which kind of defeats the purpose of the MAF and will making tuning difficult/impossible. Is this not true?

 

You need a breather they are connected to the accordion thing in front of the throttle body. So it does breath it gets recycled. All LS OEM cars have this. The valve cover has a straight no restriction 3/8 tube that goes to the intake to accordion ting in front of the throttle body. Under load the pressure from the engine goes to there and is recycled in. If you do not have that your PCV will not work as there is not fresh air source and under load it will blow seals as the engine needs a vent. A typical LS could have like 10 cfm or more of excess air leaking past the rings that needs to go somewhere. The PCV at best is 1-2 cfm. So the rest goes to the air bridge and is recycled through. If you do not have this system you need vent somewhere like one of those Moroso cans with a little air cleaner on top. Looks like you have a hose from your VC to the throttle body in drawing. Just make sure it is an unobstructed tube (does not have a bottle cap restrictor in it like above). You need a PCV restrictor or you will fill the catch can of oil. With restrictor (.100) the PCV flows 1-2 cfm at like 15 inches of vacuum without restrictor it will flow 15 cfm and will suck oil in. You can run a valve cover breather it just can not be connected to anything (with your MAF). Take a photo so we can see components and actual hook up.

 

Thanks, I'll grab a pic tonight so you can see what I'm working with. My passenger valve cover has a line going to the port at the throttle body, so I guess this is my "breather" line. It is just a piece of fuel line with no obstructions.

 

Make sure that throttle body vent tube is not clogged at all too. I see from photo is takes a round about way to vent to the front of the TB. The LS cars have a tube that is in the accordion tube about 2-3 inches in front of the throttle body.

 

Following up on this issue:

I believe my PCV, while it was incorrecty set up, was not the cause of the issues i've been having. My current situation is as follows:

-truck will crank and not fire unless I give it throttle, (~1500 rpm)

-dies when i let off the throttle

-fuel in oil

-excessive fuel, running rich, fuel smell, etc

-OIL COMING FROM DRIVER SIDE HEADER

I just noticed the oil leaking from the header today after test starting. I plan to do a compression test, but what would you guys think this could be? I'm reading it could be valve seals

 

If it were valve seals you would be seeing blue smoke from the tail pipe and oil fouled spark plug or plugs if you have an intake valve seal leaking. Exhaust valve stem seal would most likely still cause blue smoke too. Find the cylinder with the oil fouled plug and you'll find the cylinder that needs attention. Running a leak down test will tell you what issues you would have with a given cylinder.

 

Still sounds like Your tune is wrong

 

Tune being wrong or not, oil does not belong in the exhaust. I’m not saying the tune is right by any means, but oil in the exhaust is certainly a mechanical issue?

 

For sure... if it's not smoking like crazy then the cylinder causing the oil out is not firing

 

Until the truck gets on a dyno, the tune should be as close to accurate as possible for now. I’ve verified everything I can with my tuner and it all checks out.

as for the oil in the exhaust, any ideas what this may be?

 

As I've already mentioned.

Oil in the exhaust could be caused by the exhaust valve stem seal leaking allowing oil to get into the combustion chamber and being pushed out of the exhaust. You would have oil fouled plug and blue smoke coming from that cylinder. Are you certain that it's oil and not soot or carbon mixed with condensation from combustion?

 

Doing a compression test and leak down test as soon as I can. Will also pull the plugs, it is definitely driver side head, and if I had to guess, cylinder 5 or 7. And yes, it is certainly oil (dirty looking, mixed with carbon/soot) leaking from where the header/collector clamps to my y-pipe.

 

Could this be a possibility?

Could an injector be stuck wide open and be washing oil off the cylinder wall(s) and into my exhaust? I came across this thread where someone had the same issue of oil in the exhaust and this turned out to be his issue: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...de-header.html

This might be wishful thinking though. Although it does seem to explain both of my issues: fuel in oil, and oil in exhaust. Any thoughts? Also, fuel being dumped at such a rate could explain the fact that is runs crazy rich and won't idle?

 

If an injector was wide open then you would have raw fuel out the exhaust also...and probably a hydrolocked engine

 

Also in your other thread you said you pulled the rail and no injectors were leaking?

 

Yes, that is correct. So i can probably rule out injectors as being an issue. Talking to an engine builder in my area, he is not totally sure without tearing into it, but this is likely a ring issue. I just don't know what could have caused it

 

Update:

Did a compression test and every cylinder checked out. To me, seeing oil in the exhaust, I figured there had to be a cylinder(s) with blown out rings, which a compression test should reveal?? However, my readings look good (see below). I have a leakdown test kit arriving tomorrow, so I plan to check that. Any thoughts?

1: 190
3: 195
5: 190
7: 190

2: 200
4: 190
6:190
8: 190

 

Did you notice any oil fould plugs? Are you having to add engine oil to the crankcase due to a loss of oil and yet there's no visual signs of an oil leak?

 

I'd suggest taking out the intake rocker bolts and putting some thread sealer on their threads. They're VERY close to breaking through to the intake ports even when stock, and if the heads have had ANY porting, the bolt holes are almost certainly exposed to the intake port side. This creates a direct path via the threads from the crankcase to the intake.