Forging a LS2 bottomend What else while it is open ?
Forging a LS2 bottomend What else while it is open ? I am forging a bottomend of my LS2 out of a 2008 Trailblazer SS.
I am running a MP112 Magnuson Supercharger .
I am also installing a speedinc blower cam .
I am lowering compression from 10.9:1 to 9.8:1.
I am keeping the stock crank because I understand they are good for 1000hp stock.
I am keeping the stock heads (243's)
Is there anything else that anyone can recommend I do while the motor is out . I am running low on funds but if there was something to do or buy for another $500.00 to $800.00 that would make more power I would do it .
I am running a MP112 Magnuson Supercharger .
I am also installing a speedinc blower cam .
I am lowering compression from 10.9:1 to 9.8:1.
I am keeping the stock crank because I understand they are good for 1000hp stock.
I am keeping the stock heads (243's)
Is there anything else that anyone can recommend I do while the motor is out . I am running low on funds but if there was something to do or buy for another $500.00 to $800.00 that would make more power I would do it .
Last edited by 1blownss; Dec 26, 2008 at 07:41 PM.
is this going to be a pump gas engine?
if so, id drop the static compression of the engine somewhere between 9.0-9.5:1...
anything higher and your going to run into tuning limitations with a blower and 91 OC.
also make sure you go over the basics... oil pump, timing chain, lifters,pushrods...
if so, id drop the static compression of the engine somewhere between 9.0-9.5:1...
anything higher and your going to run into tuning limitations with a blower and 91 OC.
also make sure you go over the basics... oil pump, timing chain, lifters,pushrods...
Yes this is going to be a 93 pump gas engine . The blower that I have currently is a Magnuson MP112 which is only good for about 8lbs of boost and still keeping the blower in its efficiency range . I have been told that If I was going with a bigger blower like the 122 or the TVS2300 then i could drop it down to 9.0:1 but since this is a smaller blower , I need to keep it up between 10.1:1 to 10.5:1 .
We are going to make sure all the pushrods are good , they are anodized/hardened pushrods , oil pump,timing chain,lifters etc will be replaced with new .
We are going to make sure all the pushrods are good , they are anodized/hardened pushrods , oil pump,timing chain,lifters etc will be replaced with new .
I am lowering compression from 10.9:1 to 10.5:1.
I am keeping the stock crank because I understand they are good for 1000hp stock.
Is there anything else that anyone can recommend I do while the motor is out . I am running low on funds but if there was something to do or buy for another $500.00 to $800.00 that would make more power I would do it .
Hmmmmm. I would drop compression more (as already stated)
Stock crank not gonna hold 1000 HP. It's strong, but not 1000 HP strong.
Also, if you are "forging" the bottom end, but are keeping the stock crank, what is it exactly are you "forging"? Are you replacing the rods with a set of forged units? Pistons? I am asking as you did not mention anything of the sort, so, just curious
I am using the Mahle pistons,Callies Compstar H-Beam connecting rods,ACL Coated Rod and Main bearings ,Torque to yield head bolts etc.
It is getting basically a shortblock overhaul without changing the crank.
The only reason I said the crank is good up to 1000hp is because there are several guy's that are builders at speed shops on here and they have all made that remark to me , "no need to change out the crank if it is OK rebalance it and it would be good up to 1000 hp".
This is going to be a DD . I am forging the pistons ,rods etc because I had a
2" piece of ring land end up breaking off piston #1 and the motor had to be torn down to fix that so i figured why not forge the pistons etc while it is getting fixed.
I was just asking if anyone thought it might be beneficial to maybe P&P the stock heads or go with a 10% overdrive crank pulley to try and get boost up slightly more ..anything like this . I feel I have a great builder working on this , but I thought maybe someone might have had experience with this type of setup and may offer some additional options that are low cost options . I do not have the $ to invest in a set of new $2000.00 heads which I do not think would do much for this small blower . I am running a 2.7 pulley right now and making 7lbs of boost and that is about all this blower is going to do .
Thanks for your feedback
It is getting basically a shortblock overhaul without changing the crank.
The only reason I said the crank is good up to 1000hp is because there are several guy's that are builders at speed shops on here and they have all made that remark to me , "no need to change out the crank if it is OK rebalance it and it would be good up to 1000 hp".
This is going to be a DD . I am forging the pistons ,rods etc because I had a
2" piece of ring land end up breaking off piston #1 and the motor had to be torn down to fix that so i figured why not forge the pistons etc while it is getting fixed.
I was just asking if anyone thought it might be beneficial to maybe P&P the stock heads or go with a 10% overdrive crank pulley to try and get boost up slightly more ..anything like this . I feel I have a great builder working on this , but I thought maybe someone might have had experience with this type of setup and may offer some additional options that are low cost options . I do not have the $ to invest in a set of new $2000.00 heads which I do not think would do much for this small blower . I am running a 2.7 pulley right now and making 7lbs of boost and that is about all this blower is going to do .
Thanks for your feedback
I am using the Mahle pistons,Callies Compstar H-Beam connecting rods,ACL Coated Rod and Main bearings ,Torque to yield head bolts etc.
It is getting basically a shortblock overhaul without changing the crank.
The only reason I said the crank is good up to 1000hp is because there are several guy's that are builders at speed shops on here and they have all made that remark to me , "no need to change out the crank if it is OK rebalance it and it would be good up to 1000 hp".
This is going to be a DD . I am forging the pistons ,rods etc because I had a
2" piece of ring land end up breaking off piston #1 and the motor had to be torn down to fix that so i figured why not forge the pistons etc while it is getting fixed.
I was just asking if anyone thought it might be beneficial to maybe P&P the stock heads or go with a 10% overdrive crank pulley to try and get boost up slightly more ..anything like this . I feel I have a great builder working on this , but I thought maybe someone might have had experience with this type of setup and may offer some additional options that are low cost options . I do not have the $ to invest in a set of new $2000.00 heads which I do not think would do much for this small blower . I am running a 2.7 pulley right now and making 7lbs of boost and that is about all this blower is going to do .
Thanks for your feedback
It is getting basically a shortblock overhaul without changing the crank.
The only reason I said the crank is good up to 1000hp is because there are several guy's that are builders at speed shops on here and they have all made that remark to me , "no need to change out the crank if it is OK rebalance it and it would be good up to 1000 hp".
This is going to be a DD . I am forging the pistons ,rods etc because I had a
2" piece of ring land end up breaking off piston #1 and the motor had to be torn down to fix that so i figured why not forge the pistons etc while it is getting fixed.
I was just asking if anyone thought it might be beneficial to maybe P&P the stock heads or go with a 10% overdrive crank pulley to try and get boost up slightly more ..anything like this . I feel I have a great builder working on this , but I thought maybe someone might have had experience with this type of setup and may offer some additional options that are low cost options . I do not have the $ to invest in a set of new $2000.00 heads which I do not think would do much for this small blower . I am running a 2.7 pulley right now and making 7lbs of boost and that is about all this blower is going to do .
Thanks for your feedback
OK, alot more info there!!
Helps to better understand. I would still disagree on the 1000Hp stock crank, but nevermind, no need to argue. Everythign else sounds good, and looks like you are headed in teh right direction with your build. Really the only thing I don't like is the torque to yield head bolts your using. My .02 Trending Topics
What would you recommend for head bolts ? I know ARP are the top of the line ...I just thought they were overkill for something that may only see a 100 shot of juice or no more than 10lbs of boost .
OK, alot more info there!! Helps to better understand. I would still disagree on the 1000Hp stock crank, but nevermind, no need to argue. Everythign else sounds good, and looks like you are headed in teh right direction with your build. Really the only thing I don't like is the torque to yield head bolts your using. My .02
Helps to better understand. I would still disagree on the 1000Hp stock crank, but nevermind, no need to argue. Everythign else sounds good, and looks like you are headed in teh right direction with your build. Really the only thing I don't like is the torque to yield head bolts your using. My .02LS1 Tech Stories
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I mean, how much more money are the ARP head bolts (that you can reuse) over the torque to yield (that you can't)? And now, with the ARP, you have piece of mind and you can't put a price on that. Last edited by Gen414; Dec 9, 2008 at 08:26 AM. Reason: added
Stock crank is good for over 1000hp.
On the maggie you should stay above 10:1, so you are good there.
Stock mains and stock bolts are good for a reliable 700hp.
ARP head bolts would be nice.
We do a lot of maggie setups so I am speaking from experience here not interwebs here say.
On the maggie you should stay above 10:1, so you are good there.
Stock mains and stock bolts are good for a reliable 700hp.
ARP head bolts would be nice.
We do a lot of maggie setups so I am speaking from experience here not interwebs here say.
Stock crank is good for over 1000hp.
On the maggie you should stay above 10:1, so you are good there.
Stock mains and stock bolts are good for a reliable 700hp.
ARP head bolts would be nice.
We do a lot of maggie setups so I am speaking from experience here not interwebs here say.
On the maggie you should stay above 10:1, so you are good there.
Stock mains and stock bolts are good for a reliable 700hp.
ARP head bolts would be nice.
We do a lot of maggie setups so I am speaking from experience here not interwebs here say.
If you have a little extra go with the ARPs all the way around while you have the engine apart.
You may also have to pulley the Maggie differently since you are putting a new cam in. It's most likely going to need a smaller pulley to achieve the same 8 or 10 psi you were seeing before. Give Magnuson a call and see if they can give you a ballpark pulley size based on the cam specs.
If you have any work done to your heads the same thing applies. The easier you make it for air to go into and come out of your engine the smaller pulley you are going to need to achieve the same amount of boost.
If you have any work done to your heads the same thing applies. The easier you make it for air to go into and come out of your engine the smaller pulley you are going to need to achieve the same amount of boost.
I'm gonna be doing the same exact thing in the Spring. I would say see if you can find someone to give the heads a little more help. And if you want to leave the heads alone, look at ways of keeping those IAT's down with the Maggie. Say an upgraded heater exchanger, maybe a Killer Chiller (claims to drop inlet temps up to 40*) or Meth injection.
Last edited by ALL ULL C; Dec 16, 2008 at 10:47 AM.
For the last 2 yrs I have been asking why nobody has come up with a way to blow air conditionwed air into the CAI or equivalent .
Thanks for this find , I am going to look into this !
Thanks for this find , I am going to look into this !
I'm gonna be doing the same exact thing in the Spring. I would say see if you can find someone to give the heads a little more help. And if you want to leave the heads alone, look at ways of keeping those IAT's down with the Maggie. Say an upgraded heater exchanger, maybe a Killer Chiller (drops inlet temps 40*) or Meth injection.
Well they just completed my build they should show up tomorrow with my TBSS . Said i should be at approx 600-650hp & tq Flywheel.
Should be about 520-540 awhp & awtq . All I want is to be able to run in August heat at 11.99 or faster and i will be happy. If i want to run the NANO Nitrous 150shot ,I can jump into the mid to upper 10's and I will be very happy .
Should be about 520-540 awhp & awtq . All I want is to be able to run in August heat at 11.99 or faster and i will be happy. If i want to run the NANO Nitrous 150shot ,I can jump into the mid to upper 10's and I will be very happy .
Oh, I forgot to answer that last time for you.
There is a company that uses your AC compressor to cool an "intercooler" for differetn applications. It was a smaller company, and Hot Rod mag (or someone) did a small article on the product few years back. Then i saw it advertised in teh back of the magazines (again, not sure which...but would have been Hot Rod, Popular Hot Rodding, Car Craft)
I won't be able to help you more than that, but I do know that that product DOES or DID exist. Good Luck
Well they just completed my build they should show up tomorrow with my TBSS . Said i should be at approx 600-650hp & tq Flywheel.
Should be about 520-540 awhp & awtq . All I want is to be able to run in August heat at 11.99 or faster and i will be happy. If i want to run the NANO Nitrous 150shot ,I can jump into the mid to upper 10's and I will be very happy .
Should be about 520-540 awhp & awtq . All I want is to be able to run in August heat at 11.99 or faster and i will be happy. If i want to run the NANO Nitrous 150shot ,I can jump into the mid to upper 10's and I will be very happy .
Well, that will all depend on your "fighting weight"
Ya know, how much does your ride weigh? But ASSUMING you have basically a "stock" TB and not ghetto'd out, making 600 Hp, you will be in the 11.50-11.90 range. 
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 5
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From: Centerville, Ohio
Sounds great man...
I'm getting ready to do a 370ci motor to my GTO. LS2 block bored .030 over,maggie supercharger, 4.030 pistons, stock rods, stock crank, and a speed inc blower cam. And ported 243 heads. U gave me a great ball park what i might put down at the crank.
I'm getting ready to do a 370ci motor to my GTO. LS2 block bored .030 over,maggie supercharger, 4.030 pistons, stock rods, stock crank, and a speed inc blower cam. And ported 243 heads. U gave me a great ball park what i might put down at the crank.
