2008 LS7 long block, part it out?
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From: Jupiter Fl
2008 LS7 long block, part it out? Guys,
I bought this long block from a GM dealer because I just couldn't pass it up!
I was contemplating using it for another project but I am now thinking about selling it whole or parting it out.
Let me know what you guys think I should do with it and what you think it might be worth (accepting offers)
It was a warranty long block from a 2008 ZO6 with 18,000 miles.
It dropped the #8 exhaust valve (ended up in the cat very quickly)
The one head has some dings in the chamber but it didn't even hit the intake valve (I think it is very repairable)
The #8 piston is also beat up but did not crack or break thru (these thing are tough)
The sleeve is cracked and the block is cracked just behing the sleeve. The block is also repairable but I was going to just buy the LSX block if I were to build it back up
I also have the intake manifold!
I have taken the head off and will add some pictures soon.
BTW - it is in south florida
I bought this long block from a GM dealer because I just couldn't pass it up!
I was contemplating using it for another project but I am now thinking about selling it whole or parting it out.
Let me know what you guys think I should do with it and what you think it might be worth (accepting offers)
It was a warranty long block from a 2008 ZO6 with 18,000 miles.
It dropped the #8 exhaust valve (ended up in the cat very quickly)
The one head has some dings in the chamber but it didn't even hit the intake valve (I think it is very repairable)
The #8 piston is also beat up but did not crack or break thru (these thing are tough)
The sleeve is cracked and the block is cracked just behing the sleeve. The block is also repairable but I was going to just buy the LSX block if I were to build it back up
I also have the intake manifold!
I have taken the head off and will add some pictures soon.
BTW - it is in south florida
Last edited by Gearhead-GM; Mar 12, 2009 at 12:01 PM.
If the block is cracked, its done. You could try and repair it, but it won't be the same unless you get wet sleeves installed (piece of mind). You also maybe down one rod as its possible it could have slightly bent from dropping the valve (which I would bet its not true anymore). You're going to have a hard time trying to sell that stuff for any reasonable amount to make back any of your money. I would suggest just getting it rebuilt, get an LSX block if you want, or get a new LS7 block, new bearings/rod/piston/pin/rings/valve, repair the head, upgrade to ARP fasteners and have your new motor assembled. Should cost around the following:
New LSx/LS7 block: ~2400
Wiseco Pistons/rings/pins: 800
Head Repair: 200
New LS7 Ti Rod: 480 (or if you can find a deal on one)
New Exhaust valve/guide: 120
Katech rod bolts: 200
ARP Head studs: 300
ARP Main studs: 200
New LS7 Head Gaskets: 85
Tear down/clean/inspect plus all machine work (align hone, bore and hone with torque plate/deck block): ~600
Assemble long block/degree cam/install heads/etc..: ~800
Total : ~6185 WORST CASE SCENARIO
And that is JUST to get you a good running long-block... Doesn't include all the sensors that are missing/oil-pan/dry sump system or anything else that you may find wrong (ie: damaged crank). I hope you didn't pay more than 2K for it haha.
New LSx/LS7 block: ~2400
Wiseco Pistons/rings/pins: 800
Head Repair: 200
New LS7 Ti Rod: 480 (or if you can find a deal on one)
New Exhaust valve/guide: 120
Katech rod bolts: 200
ARP Head studs: 300
ARP Main studs: 200
New LS7 Head Gaskets: 85
Tear down/clean/inspect plus all machine work (align hone, bore and hone with torque plate/deck block): ~600
Assemble long block/degree cam/install heads/etc..: ~800
Total : ~6185 WORST CASE SCENARIO
And that is JUST to get you a good running long-block... Doesn't include all the sensors that are missing/oil-pan/dry sump system or anything else that you may find wrong (ie: damaged crank). I hope you didn't pay more than 2K for it haha.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Jupiter Fl
Yeah, i bought it thinking I would go with an lsx short deck buy one rod to be safe, put a set of forged pistons and get some tsp ported heads and put it together.
That said...it is totally repairable both the block and head could be fixed and the rod may not be bent and otherwise the thing is brand new with clean oil still in the pan.
The owner said "it just shut right off" and he didn't try to start it, they just towed it.
I call BS, becasue I can't imagine how he could have hurt this thing unless he downshifted into 1st at 80mph and dumped the clutch.
It also has some carbon on the pistons that make me think he wasn't exactly running premium fuel.
Anyways, I do diesel performance work and EFI live tuning so I am not up on the prices of LS components and I figured you guys would quickly know about what its worth.
Really I shouldn't even have bought it because I already have a dart little "M" 383 w/ a 6-71 and efi for my 66 chevy project truck. But man it would be cool to put a blown LS7 in it!
That said...it is totally repairable both the block and head could be fixed and the rod may not be bent and otherwise the thing is brand new with clean oil still in the pan.
The owner said "it just shut right off" and he didn't try to start it, they just towed it.
I call BS, becasue I can't imagine how he could have hurt this thing unless he downshifted into 1st at 80mph and dumped the clutch.
It also has some carbon on the pistons that make me think he wasn't exactly running premium fuel.
Anyways, I do diesel performance work and EFI live tuning so I am not up on the prices of LS components and I figured you guys would quickly know about what its worth.
Really I shouldn't even have bought it because I already have a dart little "M" 383 w/ a 6-71 and efi for my 66 chevy project truck. But man it would be cool to put a blown LS7 in it!
Yeah, i bought it thinking I would go with an lsx short deck buy one rod to be safe, put a set of forged pistons and get some tsp ported heads and put it together.
That said...it is totally repairable both the block and head could be fixed and the rod may not be bent and otherwise the thing is brand new with clean oil still in the pan.
The owner said "it just shut right off" and he didn't try to start it, they just towed it.
I call BS, becasue I can't imagine how he could have hurt this thing unless he downshifted into 1st at 80mph and dumped the clutch.
It also has some carbon on the pistons that make me think he wasn't exactly running premium fuel.
Anyways, I do diesel performance work and EFI live tuning so I am not up on the prices of LS components and I figured you guys would quickly know about what its worth.
Really I shouldn't even have bought it because I already have a dart little "M" 383 w/ a 6-71 and efi for my 66 chevy project truck. But man it would be cool to put a blown LS7 in it!
That said...it is totally repairable both the block and head could be fixed and the rod may not be bent and otherwise the thing is brand new with clean oil still in the pan.
The owner said "it just shut right off" and he didn't try to start it, they just towed it.
I call BS, becasue I can't imagine how he could have hurt this thing unless he downshifted into 1st at 80mph and dumped the clutch.
It also has some carbon on the pistons that make me think he wasn't exactly running premium fuel.
Anyways, I do diesel performance work and EFI live tuning so I am not up on the prices of LS components and I figured you guys would quickly know about what its worth.
Really I shouldn't even have bought it because I already have a dart little "M" 383 w/ a 6-71 and efi for my 66 chevy project truck. But man it would be cool to put a blown LS7 in it!
The carbon on the piston means nothing, you'll always get that no matter what. He could have simply been getting a little oil from the PCV system, or he had a tune and it was running a little lean. Either way, carbon build up is guaranteed unless you're running E85.
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You definitely should do that! That block is scrap in my book. Maybe someone on here can fix it right for you, but I wouldn't recommend it.
You will also need to replace the intake valve, it was definitely hit by the flying valve head. Make sure you FULLY inspect all of the other valves, as you may find some others that may have hit pistons if this guy over revved his motor, but I have heard of the exhaust valves coming apart on these LS7's. NICE car btw.
You will also need to replace the intake valve, it was definitely hit by the flying valve head. Make sure you FULLY inspect all of the other valves, as you may find some others that may have hit pistons if this guy over revved his motor, but I have heard of the exhaust valves coming apart on these LS7's. NICE car btw.
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You MAYBE able to get around 1K for the heads in the condition they are in, but I doubt it.
Maybe 200 for the block if someone wants to venture trying to fix it. Contact Steve at Race Engine Development, he will DEFINITELY know if the block can be effectively repaired or not.
I would say conservatively you might get 2K for it.
You MAYBE able to get around 1K for the heads in the condition they are in, but I doubt it.
Maybe 200 for the block if someone wants to venture trying to fix it. Contact Steve at Race Engine Development, he will DEFINITELY know if the block can be effectively repaired or not.
I would say conservatively you might get 2K for it.
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Jupiter Fl
Using the number above lets assume that the only parts worth using are
7 rods @ $240 each - 1680
crank @400 - 2080
one good head @ 500 - 2580
timing cover @ 100 - 2680
oil pan @ 100 - 2780
I think this is very conservative even at those prices and this doesn't include all the fasteners and other minor components like valve covers, rockers, pushrods, hardware etc.
Ok, i see the link above lets say 1400 for the rotating assy. 600 for heads still you have pan, timing cover, oil pump, rockers, pushrods, intake, valve covers, and a bunch of other misc. items that would cost an arm and a leg to buy from GM
Im thinkin it's more like $3000
7 rods @ $240 each - 1680
crank @400 - 2080
one good head @ 500 - 2580
timing cover @ 100 - 2680
oil pan @ 100 - 2780
I think this is very conservative even at those prices and this doesn't include all the fasteners and other minor components like valve covers, rockers, pushrods, hardware etc.
Ok, i see the link above lets say 1400 for the rotating assy. 600 for heads still you have pan, timing cover, oil pump, rockers, pushrods, intake, valve covers, and a bunch of other misc. items that would cost an arm and a leg to buy from GM
Im thinkin it's more like $3000
Last edited by Gearhead-GM; Mar 13, 2009 at 08:19 AM.
Using the number above lets assume that the only parts worth using are
7 rods @ $240 each - 1680
crank @400 - 2080
one good head @ 500 - 2580
timing cover @ 100 - 2680
oil pan @ 100 - 2780
I think this is very conservative even at those prices and this doesn't include all the fasteners and other minor components like valve covers, rockers, pushrods, hardware etc.
Ok, i see the link above lets say 1400 for the rotating assy. 600 for heads still you have pan, timing cover, oil pump, rockers, pushrods, intake, valve covers, and a bunch of other misc. items that would cost an arm and a leg to buy from GM
Im thinkin it's more like $3000
7 rods @ $240 each - 1680
crank @400 - 2080
one good head @ 500 - 2580
timing cover @ 100 - 2680
oil pan @ 100 - 2780
I think this is very conservative even at those prices and this doesn't include all the fasteners and other minor components like valve covers, rockers, pushrods, hardware etc.
Ok, i see the link above lets say 1400 for the rotating assy. 600 for heads still you have pan, timing cover, oil pump, rockers, pushrods, intake, valve covers, and a bunch of other misc. items that would cost an arm and a leg to buy from GM
Im thinkin it's more like $3000
With all the other stuff, I can see 3000. I think you should just build the motor
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From: Jupiter Fl
10-4, and Im not saying I wouldn't take less than 3k especially in todays economy.
I think the value would be in building it back up as is with maybe a cam some head work and a set of forged slugs.
Still alot cheaper than buying a new stock long block.
I should probably post it in the for sale section at around $3000 and let the bidding start.
It's bad enough that I waste all my money on diesel parts and my other projects now you bastards are making me want to build an LSX!!!!!!!!!!!!
BTW - thanks for the input!!
I think the value would be in building it back up as is with maybe a cam some head work and a set of forged slugs.
Still alot cheaper than buying a new stock long block.
I should probably post it in the for sale section at around $3000 and let the bidding start.
It's bad enough that I waste all my money on diesel parts and my other projects now you bastards are making me want to build an LSX!!!!!!!!!!!!
BTW - thanks for the input!!
Well, you could always start selling some of your other "junk" and build up this LS7 You could make 1,000rwhp with the right setup on pump gas and meth! Hell, you could even run E-85.
You could make 1,000rwhp with the right setup on pump gas and meth! Hell, you could even run E-85. 
